The Adventures of Chris and Terry’s kids
During my trip to Perth last week, I had to drive through yet another bush fire. The trusty phone camera captured part of the fire that engulfed both sides of the road as I drove through it. About 500 metres up, shire workers were madly moving their loaders and equipment to a safer place.
Last year I posted some photos showing a fire from our backyard. Well, it’s bushfire time again, and it makes for some eerie evenings. The past few nights have been quite still, and the smoke from the surrounding fires has made it near impossible to put washing on the line. Even when going to sleep in the bedroom, it feels like you are swagging it right next to a campfire. Not particularly pleasant! From what I understand, most of the fires are deliberately lit, playing havoc with the graziers and their cattle.
With the weather starting to warm up, the barra have begun to come out again. Over the past few weeks, we’ve managed to land no fewer than 7 barra, but alas, none have been size! Tim and I got up early this morning to take the boat up to the gorge, launching at 5am. The trend continued, with Tim landing a small barra at around 7:30am, and I landed a 45cm at around 12:30pm. In between, we had a few strikes with no reward, and I caught a couple of good bream – one was a perfect pan size, so we cooked it in the boat on the portable stove for a top breakfast. The other came in at a very respectable 32cm.
There were a few interesting catches along the way – trolling past the Geikie Gorge rockwall, with the echo sounder showing 30 foot of water, and trolling with a lure that dived to only 3 foot, I hooked a 30cm catfish. It seemed quite a strange place to catch a catty. The other quite ridiculous catch came just after I landed my barra. We were flicking lures in the area in the hope of catching another, when I felt a light touch on the line. Slightly confused when it continued to slightly tug at the barra lure, I reeled in to find a bream had tried a suicidal feat by trying to hit a lure that was actually bigger than it!
An enjoyable morning of fishing!
Saturday 7 July to Sunday 8 July
We had a terrific flight back to Kununurra from Kalumburu and got a lift with Sue the pilot out to Wendy’s place at Crossing Falls. Jackie, the Deputy from Kalumburu was also on the flight and had time to kill until her flight to Darwin at 2pm so she tagged along. Both Fred and Wendy were in Perth so we set up our camp out the back and organised our life in readiness for a return to life on the road.
The first task was to head into town to Kimberley Fine Diamonds. Unfortunately, Christine had discovered that the diamond from her engagement ring had disappeared somewhere along the way. The fact that this occurred in the heart of diamond country struck me as something of a coincidence but I played along with the ruse. We looked at trays contained an endless array of diamonds in all sizes and colours. The most expensive I saw was $107,000 but luckily the setting wouldn’t take it. As it was, we ended up buying a bigger diamond and arranging to have the setting changed. The work would be done while we were away in the Bungle Bungles so we could pick it up on our way back through Kununurra. Ah well, what’s another day’s work (or even three day’s work).
With the shopping complete, we gave Wendy’s washing machine a good workout, caught up on some much needed afternoon sleeping and reorganised the packing.
Monday 9 July to Wednesday 11 July – The Bungle Bungles
By Monday morning we were ready to set off South once again to catch up with Trevor and Emma at Turkey Creek in readiness for a trip into the Bungles. We drove back over familiar ground to Turkey Creek. Trevor and Emma were there waiting for us, along with Marcus, another teacher from Fitzroy. They greeted us with the news that there was no room at the inn so we headed down the road 5kms and made a very comfortable bush camp. With the temperature dropping dramtically, a camp fire was a necessity. None of us could believe how cold it was when we left the warmth of the fire to head off to bed. It was one of those nights when rolling over was a major decision to make and the crispness of the pillow was ice rather than starch.
The next morning we undertook the drive into the Bungles in a convoy of three vehicles. The last time we were here the 53km took just under 3 hours but literature was suggesting a 2 hour trip. Things were going really well until the first major creek crossing. Three other cars had just made the crossing, complete with tarps lashed across the radiator. Our convoy wasted no time on such precautions and we launched ourselves across. Marcus decided a bit of speed best suited his Toyota Hilux ute. The big bolders on the creek bed decided otherwise and he entertained us all by literally bouncing the vehicle through the crossing. Trevor’s big Series 80 Cruiser just did it with ease while we took it pretty easy in the Ford Explorer. After an exciting hour and a half of scenic driving, we arrived at the Ranger Station in Purnululu National Park and paid our camping fees. Christine and I decided to make bookings for a helicopter flight over the dome formations. This proved too much for the others, who soon followed suit. We had two choppers booked for the next day at 8:30am. We found a great camp site at Kurrajong Camp and set up for a quick lunch.
After lunch, we drove out to the Eastern end of the range and explored Echidna Chasm. This amazing formation starts off as a typical (although deep) Kimberley sandstone gorge. As we explored further up the gorge, it narrowed until it became an amazing 200 metre high crevice only 2 metres wide. Boulders could be seen wedged across the crevice, suspended dangerously above our heads.
Then it was off to the Western end and a walk amongst the famous "bee hive domes", along Piccanniny Creek to Cathedral Gorge. The beautiful feature ends in a huge natural amphitheatre with near perfect acoustics. Standing at one end of the cave, one can hear natural voice conversations from others on the other side some 80 metres or so away. Could be very embarrassing! IT has been 9 years since we were last here and it is refreshing to see that the place remains relatively unspoilt. Some people feel that the Bungle Bungles needs more development and a better access road but to me part of the mystery would be lost. The numbers visiting are already reaching the maximum sustainable number so I’m happy to leave the area as it is
Campfires at night are a necessity in this part of the Kimberleys in July, with night temperatures dropping into single digits. The rangers supply wood to camping areas and so we enjoyed a very plesant evening. Trevor and Emma are experts with camp cooking using camp ovens so Christine is happy to step back from her usual culinary creations and let them go.
The next morning it was up early to drive out to the air strip for the helicopter flight. None of us had been on a chopper before so we did not quite know what to expect. We had two machines, three in one and two in the other. Christine suggested splitting up so one of us could enjoy the superannuation but we eventually got in together. All fears were vanquished as we lifted off. What a great feeling. We were both instantly converted to helicopter travel.
Others have told us before that to really appreciate the Bungles, one has to see them from both the ground and the air. How true! There is no way to truly appreciate the sheer size and extent of the formation from the ground. The view from above reveals an enormous matrix of valleys and gorges, most of which would be inaccesible from the ground. All too quickly, we were back on the ground. Everyone agreed the experience was well worth the time and money.
After a hearty meal of bacon and eggs, we packed camp and set out once more over the rough track back to the highway. This time, the big creek crossing took its toll, smashing the jockey wheels on both camper trailers. We pushed on towards Kununurra, making camp for the night at the Durham River, in time to try a spot of fishing. The effort proved fruitless. Trevor and I could see grunter, large eel-tailed catfish and some tarpon looking fish in good numbers but nothing would bite.
Thursday 12 July to Sunday 15 July – Keep River
The next morning, we said farewell to Marcus, who was headed back to Fitzroy and on to Broome for a Perth bound flight. We drove on to Kununurra with Trevor and Emma, stopped for a few supplies and ,of course, to pick up Christine’s engagement ring. The result was terrific and CHristine left proudly sporting a genuine Argyle Diamond. From Kununurra, we crossed the border into the NT. Only 10km or so later, we turned North into the Keep River National Park. Here we hoped to find both good scenery and good fishing, with sooty grunter being the main target species. The ranger reported that the first camp site was full so we had to drive the 25km to the far camp. Here, the recent heavy rains had caused flooding so access to the walk trails and main river hole was barred. Trevor and I realised that our stay would be more scenic than fishy.
The scenery proved to be well worth the visit. We undertook one terrific walk of around 3km through an amazing "lost city" formation with sweeping views of some incredible sandstone escarpments. We rested up some, read books and had a thoroughly enjoyable time. The Keep River itself is not much this far inland, and seems difficult to access in many places. Our thoughts turned to fishing again and we decided to return to WA and access the Keep River further North, were the tidal influence would provide a better chance or barramundi.
Unfortunately, we ommitted to register our vehicles at the quarantine station on the border so we faced losing all our fruit and veg, even though we had purchaed all in Kununurra. We put everything into one box and showed some recepits from Coles Kununurra dated just a few days before. This satisfied the officer checking our car but Trevor had to have his cast new checked out so we waited while the quarantine officer kindly removed all mud and dead leaves from the net. Ironically, the last time the net was thrown was in WA so any cane toad tadpoles were local ones. The quarantine rules are strict and well policed. So far, they are paying off although one gets the impression that the cane toad issue is only one good wet away from being lost.
We went back through Kununurra and turned North again across the Weaber Plains and getting lost out on the Carlton Hill Road. A local gave us directions and we were soon back into the NT and following the Keep River once again. By now, the Keep was a serious river. 
We selected a shady camp site on a reach of the river that looked tidal and set about the difficult task of getting the boat into the water. We put the trailer together and loaded up the boat. After an hour or so and one completed aborrted attempt, we realised that it would have beenb better to forget the trailer and cart the boat on the roof. Eventually, we were in the water and off. It was with disappointment that we discovered the water was still fresh and flowing.
After a fruitless couple of hours trolling and casting lures, it was time to pack it in before the light failed. One last troll through a likely looking hole in a rocky bay produced a strike for Trevor on a gold Reidy’s. At 46cm, the barramundi was not a keeper but gave us hope for the next day. The next morning was were up at first light and back to the spot. Almost every pass produce a strike and we had a ball on the little barra, even though Trevor outfished me 4 to 1. The biggest was also Trevor’s at 53cm, a mere 2 cm off having barra for tea. After a while we headed back to camp and I swapped spots with Emma. Trevor figured that this place was her big chance to catch her first barra. They returned triumphant, with Emma landing a small but pretty fish. Hey, a barra is a barra!
Well pleased, we broke camp and drove back into Kununurra, a trip that resulted in our first flat tyre of the trip to date. Trev and Em had gone on ahead and secured a couple of spots at the Hidden Valley Caravan Park, a difficult task during school holidays. By the time we arrived, the park was full. They were planning on a return to Fitzroy the next day while we would hang on for a couple of days, get the tyre repaired and let the pace of life slow a little.
Alas, I forgot to take my tripod with me on my trip, and accordingly, the majority of my attempts at creating panoramic shots have failed miserably. I have one that did make it, and I present it here: a shot of Keep River National Park, in particular, the Gurrandalng Walk from the base. Click on the image below to view a larger version.
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Emma and I have spent the last week with Mum and Dad touring across the East Kimberley – something we haven’t done together before. Marcus, another teacher from Fitzroy, also joined us for the trip into the Bungles before driving back to Broome to complete his break in Perth.
The Bungles were so much more than I expected – I’d seen pictures before, but I’d now recommend anyone to go and see them in the flesh. I’d also recommend doing a helicopter tour – fantastic!
We then drove on, spending a night alongside the Dunham River. I caught a couple of small bream, but nothing approaching the legal size limit. From here, we shopped quickly in Kununurra, and crossed the border for the Keep River National Park. For such a beautiful and accessible park (2WD can get in, and only 50km from Kununurra), it’s a wonder it wasn’t fuller than it was. There were some great walks through here, and the price to stay in the NT parks is a lot less than WA parks (it cost Emma and I $30 to camp in the Bungles, and only $6.60 to camp in Keep River).
After two nights in the National Park, we trekked back to Kununurra, with more shopping, and then drove through the irrigation land back into the Northern Territory to set up camp closer to the mouth of the Keep River. All up, we caught some six barra, though none were size! I’ll definitely be re-visiting this little stretch again…
So, gone for a week, but a full week it was! Some stunning scenery, a great chance to catch up with Mum and Dad, and a most relaxing holiday. Great fun! I’m sure when Dad posts he will have many more details…
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Anyone for a douche in the local creek?
Another sign from our trip – this one was in the Northern Territory, and was preceded with a sign 100 metres back which proclaimed “The maximum speed limit in the Northern Territory is 110km/hr, unless otherwise stated.”
Well, it didn’t come in Fitzroy Crossing, nor Western Australia actually, but Emma has finally cracked the Barramundi market!! Whilst we won’t bore people with all the relevant size and weight stats, we can assure you that it has set a new record size for barra caught by Emma, and took her nearly 5 full minutes to get to the boat (disclaimer: may or may not include amount of time fish was actually hooked and fisherwoman was unaware there was a fish on the line). Congrats Emma!
Monday 18 June to Friday 22 June
We had a week of work, providing relief for Trevor while he set up case conferences and teacher meetings as part of his role as Learning Support Coordinator. At least, this was the plan but I managed to wake up on Monday morning with a killer cold, complete with aches in the joints and a fever. I satyed at home in front of the TV while Christine went off to work. I felt very guilty about this state of affairs but the feeling soon passed. Christine came home having had a mixed day with some successes and some struggles.
Tuesday was a day off for us anyway so I had a couple of days to recover. We spent Tuesday doing a spot of housework and getting our gear organised. Unusually, the day was wet, with light but persistent rain having started the evening before. A check of the weather radar on the web showed that the rain was widespread across the Kimberleys and heavy in places, including across the Mt Barnett area of the Gibb River Road. We started to panic about the prospect of driving in to Kalumburu on the coming weekend. By Wednesday, the situation had worsened, with the steady rain at Fitzroy Crossing taking its toll locally and some areas to the North suffering localised flooding. I rang Jarrad at Wannanami School (Mt Barnett) and he reported that the Gibb River Road was closed and that lots of tourists were bogged or stranded along the way. By Thursday, we had given up all hope of leaving Fitzroy on the weekend and had given ourselves a deadline of the next Monday to set off. With a two day drive into Kalumburu ahead of us, we decided that if we could not leave on Monday, we would drive to Kununurra on the bitumen and fly in.
Meanwhile, the teaching continued. The process we have adopted is for both of us to be employed for one pay. This makes the work a lot easier and more enjoyable. We work well together and the kids seem to like the increased attention they get. We both love reading stories so we fight a bit over that task but otherwise things are going well. We spent one terrific morning out at Bayulu School (on Gogo Station). The staff and kids were fantastic and we had a great time doing a “show and tell” about Kalumburu. We also showed a lot of the classes at Fitzroy all about Kalumburu and we found they were very keen to learn about other communities. We both thoroughly enjoyed our brief time spent working at Fitzroy. The staff is a very professional group and work well together in some of the most trying conditions around. The school buildings are falling apart as the termites take their toll, the facilities are old and delapidated and the timeline to the new school seems to be very elastic. Despite this, the work goes on. Somehow, the media seems to miss all the great work being done under conditions no other employees would accept. Thanks to all for the wonderful hospitality.
Weekend 23/24 June
The rain stopped but there is little propect of leaving for Kalumburu for some time. We tried fishing again in Gieke Gorge, borrowing Troy’s boat so all four of us could go. It proved to be a poor trip from a fishing point of view, with only one medium sooty grunter caught and one fresh water turtle released. The river was flowing quite well with the recent rain and it had obviously put the fish off for a while. While launching, I managed to place a large rock on my finger while putting it behind a wheel. I did it in such a fashion as to immediately produce a nasty case of "black nail" and a considerable amount of pain. Despite this, the day was most enjoyable. Trevor and Emma have grown accustomed to the glory of Gieke Gorge but for us tourists the trip was spectacular. A very enjoyable staff barbecue rounded off an excellent weekend.
Week 25 to 29 June
We set off on Monday for Kununurra, driving through a fair bit of water as most creeks between Fitzroy and Halls Creek were flowing over the road. We never tire of the magnificant drive from Turkey Creek to Kununurra and the recent rains had added a beautiful splash of green across the landscape.
We contacted my cousin Wendy along the way and arranged to set up our camper on their block out at Crossing Falls. They are in the process of building a wonderful house. It is now in a livable state, with most facilities in place and others not far off. Fred may disagree with this statement but now that he has finally retired from Argyle, he should find more time to fit out what will be a spectacular house.
With a charter plane to Kalumburu booked for Wednesday morning, we had Tuesday to get things organised. The plan was to spend a couple of days in Kalumburu working, then pack 14 students into two Landcruisers and drive to Broome for a week of sports. Space would be at an absolute premium both on the plane and on the drive to Broome so we had to prepare as backpackers do.
The plane trip proved to be a real squeeze, because we had to pick up a couple of computer technicians in Oombulgurri on the way to Kalumburu. We all squeezed in and ended up with luggage on our laps. Kalumburu has changed a bit since we were last there in April. The signs of the cyclone damage of 2005 are fading as the normally lush vegetation around the houses re-grows. The fencing of the community houses and competitions to reward people who keep gardens and grounds clean has paid off, with many houses looking cleaner and brighter. The town was bulging at the seams with tourists, many of whom had been stranded in with the rain. THe road opened South as far as Drysdale as we landed and a cavalcade of 4WDs could be seen leaving. It was wonderful to be so warmly greeted by friends in the community.
Friday 15 June
We arrived in Fitzroy Crossing at Trevor and Emma’s place just after 4 o’clock. Trevor was already kitted out in his fishing gear and anxious to get going after cherrabin. Emma was still not home so, after a quick unpack, Trevor and I left Christine to do the rest and went fishing (sounds fair). We met his mate Troy and some visiting relatives down at Donkey Crossing and I had a wonderful time watching Trevor get very dirty and tired using his cast net to catch cherrabin. After a successful if not spectacular catch, we headed home for a much needed tea and bed.
Saturday 16 June
In the morning, Christine and I did a spot of shopping at the local store, leaving a little shocked at the outrageous prices ($6.15 for a tub of yoghurt, $6 for a handful of grapes etc). A bit of housework followed and we managed to catch up on some much needed clothes washing. With the afternoon free, we set off with Trev and Em for a swim at Red Air. Trevor also suggested packing a couple of light rods just in case we felt like fishing for sooty grunter.
Red Air proved to be a beautiful spot, with a fast flowing stream. Christine got her exercise in by swimming into the current for 10 minutes or so. She swam her little heart out but went absolutely nowhere. Meanwhile, Trevor and I tried our hand out on the sooty grunter (black bream to locals). We tromped up and down the bank and managed 2 nice ones and one beauty of 32cm!
We had barbecued sooty for entree that night, picked fresh from the bone, there is no finer fish!
Sunday 17 June
The plan was for Trevor and I to get up before dawn to fish the upper reaches of Geike Gorge. With the success of the previous day, the pressure was off so we decided to take it easy and fish the afternoon. Boats are only allowed in the main part of the gorge before 7am, between 12 and 1pm then after 4pm. This is to allow uninterupted eco cruises for tourists. We spent the morning at school finalising the timetable and our teaching duties for the coming week.
By noon we had had lunch, arrived at the gorge and had the port-a-bote rigged. We were using my boat and Trev’s 5hp outboard. The combination proved effective and we made good time down the gorge, even with a bit of unsuccessful trolling thrown in. We spent an entertaining 3 hours or so catching 5 excellent sooty grunter. Trev managed a pair at 31cm and 32cm so he was well pleased. To make it even better, Trevor’s mate Troy came past. They had struck out andwere looking very envious of our catch.
Just when we decided it couldn’t get much better, Trevor suggested a last minute troll on the way back. He suggested he had a “secret spot”. His rod was already rigged with a gold Reidy lure so I trolled while he steered. We didn’t have to wait long before a solid hookup suggested that there was more to life than sooty grunter. After a huge run and a heart stopping time when the line went slack for a bit, the fish settled down to a slow pull in the reeds, giving one half jump and some head shaking as the dinghy came along side. At 85cm, the landing net proved a little inadequate and it ended up a broken jumbled mess. As we hauled aboard for measuring and photgraphing, Troy’s boat came around the bend and we could hear a shout of “They’ve got a barra!” It made Trevor’s day.
We cut the destroyed landing net away from the lure, unhooked the fish and released it. Meanwhile, Troy and his uncle had their troll rigs out, going over the same area. As we left, there were shouts of glee as they landed a small barra, around 45cm. We unpacked the boat well satisfied.
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