Tag: Darwin

The Cruise, Hong Kong, Singapore etc

Travelling from Shenzen back to Hong Kong to board the Virgo proved uneventful. Perhaps we are getting used to trains, border checks and immigration. We had to slow Bill down a bit as he raced ahead with his 30kg luggage on wheels but otherwise the trip was pleasant enough.dsc02250.jpg

Boarding the ship proved equally easy and within no time at all we had had the obligatory boarding photos taken, received our electronic pass and located our cabins. The cabins were bigger than I had imagined and very well appointed. Lack of a window was a little off-putting but by looking at the picture of a Mediterranean village long enough I could at least imagine we could see out. Mary had convinced us to pay a little extra for deck 9, rather than being “down below”. This was a great idea because it meant all the fun decks were nice and handy.

imgp0050.jpgThe four of us explored the ship, locating the many restaurants and bars, swimming pools, health club etc. The main foyer was as good as any hotel, with a beautiful sweeping staircase, glass lifts and numerous shops dotted around the mezzanine. It was soon obvious that there would be no shortage of things to do on board but that the waistline was in for a pounding. We tested that out by settling in at the poolside bar for the first of many “refreshing ales”. Life on board revolves around the magic electronic card. You hand it over as a credit card, use it to record your presence at meals and scan it leaving and re-boarding the boat. Christine and I took the attitude early on that scrimping and saving was pointless and that we would book up what ever took our fancy. Meals are included in the trip costs but drinks and other snacks come at prices a bit below Perth pub prices. Shore excursions are also an extra expense. One can elect to go ashore under own steam but in reality the ship is not docked long enough to allow too much time to do your own thing.imgp0011.jpg

We went ashore in Sanya, a new resort town on the Southern end of Hianan Island (China). It was a rip-off. All they did was bundled us into a bus, took us to an ordinary beach where we were pestered by hawkers selling strings of rubbish pearls. Then they dumped us at a 6 storey department store complex for a couple of hours so we could be absolutely bored. The highlight of the store was when Bill wanted to by a cake of soap. We went into a supermarket but couldn’t locate the right aisle. Christine went off to get help, mimed washing under her arms and got carried away by an army of assistants to the deodorant section. The store had 10 times more assistants than customers. We couldn’t believe just how many workers were lining the aisles and standing in well-ordered groups until it occurred to us that they were actually part of a mass training exercise. Another highlight was exploring the roof-top area of the complex in search of a bar and a snack only to be lost in a massive seedy brothel. The girls were really impressed.

Bill and Mary also went ashore in Halong Bay (Vietnam) whereas we have cruised Halong before and stayed on board. They were left very unimpressed after a boring boat tour and an ordinary lunch at a run-down hotel.  The conclusion we have reached is that you don’t choose a cruise for the destinations, just the ship’s facilities.

After 4 days of cruising, we have both firmly decided that it is the way to go. We have now started keeping an eye on www.vacationstogo.com where last minute cruise vacancies are sold at discounts of up to 70%.

dscf1235.jpgLeaving and entering Hong Kong harbour is a fantastic experience. Rain and heavy mist spoiled some of the views but the vista of towering buildings clinging to the sides of the mountains is exceptional. On our return to Hong Kong, most of the passengers disembarked but we stayed on for a further night at sea. The ship filled up with Chinese wanting to put to sea to gamble. The trip out through the harbour at night is something to experience.

On our final return to Hong Kong, we got off the ship and caught the ferry from Kowloon over the harbour to Hong Kong Island. Bill and Mary had booked mid level hotel at JJs. It proved very good.  We went down-market and stayed at the Alisan Guest house. The room was actually smaller than the cabin on the Virgo but it did the trick for the couple of nights in Hong Kong. Christine and I quickly fell in love with HK. dscf1208.jpgIt is lively, bustling, clean and well organised (at least compared to Shenzen and Guangzou). Life can be a little pricey, with accommodation being very expensive by Asian standards and food being more like cheap Perth prices. During our time on the Virgo, the World’s financial systems had been going into melt-down and the Aussie Dollar lost nearly 20% of its value. As we went around HK and saw the exchange rates plummet on a daily basis, we kicked ourselves for not buying some $US at 95c on a few weeks earlier.
During our time in HK, we took the mandatory trip up Victoria Hill on the famous funicular tramway and took in the fabulous views of Victoria Harbour and across to Kowloon and the New Territories.

With Hong Kong behind us, we stopped off in Singapore for a couple of days unwind and to slow the pace a little. I think we almost regard Singapore as one of our many homes and can’t help returning to favourite eating places and locations. We stayed down in the Geylang District. Being a red light area, life on the streets is colourful and entertaining although a little heart wrenching to see the sad looks on the faces of some of the girls who have obviously been imported from other less affluent Asian countries.

dscf1271.jpgWe have been eagerly awaiting the opening of Singapore’s new “big wheel”, the Singapore Flyer. It is an immense wheel, modelled after London’s Millennium Wheel. We went on a one rotation 30 minute ride, taking in terrific views of Singapore and across the Straits of Malacca to Indonesia.

The flight back into Darwin went smoothly and we spend a couple of days resting up and packing for the long trip across the Kimberley to work in Derby. We stopped off for a couple of days work in Muludja (near Fitzroy Crossing) and caught up with Trev and Em. We were warmly welcomed in Muldja, with the kids all calling out “hello” to Benji and Poppy as we drove in. The days went by in a blur of work, travel and fishing once again on the Fitzroy (hooked and lost 1 barra). We finally arrived at Derby to set up ready for life between now and the end of the school year.

Darwin to Guangzhou

We have really put in some miles since our last post. In one day, we;

  • left Tumbling Waters,
  • wandered around Darwin killing time (shopping, movies, eating etc),
  • flew to Singapore (1am to 3am)
  • entered Singapore
  • changed planes and flew to Hong Kong
  • entered Hong Kong
  • caught the subway train to Kowloon
  • changed trains to Wo Lu (Chinese border)
  • entered China
  • caught fast train (200km/hr) to Guangzhou
  • booked in to hotel
  • collapsed!

All this meant that we had spent more than enough time standing in queues at immigration, customs and train stations. It is always so much worse when you don’t really know what you are doing.

We caught up with Bill and Mary Dawson in Singapore. They had been to Hong Kong and into China before so they had some clues but there was still a lot of guess-work involved.

train-speed.jpgThe train trip on the fast train was terrific. It was like travelling to Bunbury in 45 minutes. The only indication that we were doing 200km/hr was the speed readout in the cabin because it felt like 40km/hr.
Guangzhou (Canton of old) is a sprawling city of around 4 million. It is difficult to get an idea of its size because the air quality restricts ghangzou1.jpgvision down to a kilometre or so. There is the usual Asian mixture of the old and the ultra modern, with urban renewal programs very much in evidence.

We shopped a lot, ate even more, drank lots of beer, walked about 500km and collapsed in complete exhaustion each night. It is great having another couple to share things with and keeping Bill in sight is always a challenge when we are out shopping.

The “Chinglish”signage provides much amusement. We went to a huge memorial park one day (along with about 300,000 others). Everywhere we went there were signs with incomprehensible English translations.sign.jpg

Language is a real issue for us. Very few people have any English and those that do seem limited to a few phrases. When we go into a restraurant, the waitresses tend to run away. The prospect of getting a good tip from a tourist is overshadowed by the embrarassment of having to take out orders. I am happy to point, nod and take my chances but Christine likes to ask questions like, “Can you explain the sequence of spices use to create this dish?” We are working on her.

The crowds are also difficult to deal with. Our first full day in Guangzhou was a National day so things were even worse. Trying to move in the main shopping streets became near impossible. Once day we went off to the zoo to visit the new marine centre. I couldn’t believe just how many people would go to a zoo on one day. dscf1165.jpgI estimate that the main arena for the performing seals, dolphins and beluga whales held 3,000 or so. With the show over, the whole crowd surges forward into the underwater viewing tunnel and main exhibit area. Somehow, the facility dealt with the crowd and we could view most parts in reasonable comfort. However, the noise inside the exhibit was beyond belief.
After Guangzhou, we caught the train back down to Shenzen on the border. This is a city of 8 million and has only existed since 1980. Everything is new, clean and enormous. The city exists for shopping. The crowds are huge and the selling pressure unrelenting. Once you learn to join in the bargaining and walk away when you have to, the whole thing becomes terrific fun.dscf1150.jpg

This morning we leave to return to Hong Kong and board the Virgo for a 4 day cruise. More immigration queues and lots of waiting around. I can’t wait.

Darwin and Surrounds

Monday 6 August to Monday 13 August

Ron and Dorothy flew in to Darwin on Monday afternoon. We picked them up and drove back out to Tumbling Waters at Berry Springs. Their chalet proved to be terrific, with two bedrooms, a good bathroom, a basic kitchen and barbecue. We stopped at Coolalinga along the way to stock up the larder. Christine and Dorothy had negotiated a division of labour when it comes to cooking and feed lots. Ron and I just bought what ever we felt like eating.

For the next week and a bit, we made day trips out of Tumbling Waters to the nearby attractions and as far a field as Jabiru, in Kakadu National Park.

Territory Wildlife Park

What an amazing place. Ron and Dorothy had been before but Christine and I had dismissed it as “just another zoo”. How wrong we were! The park covers a huge area and the displays are well spread out. Access around the park is via a circuit train that you can hop on an off at will. A highlight for all of us was the aquarium which displays fish and reptile life of the freshwater environments of the Northern Territory. The aquarium features a walkthrough tunnel that allows the viewing of 2 metre sawfish as they glide over head and huge barramundi lazing amongst the fallen timber. Another stand-out display was a 4 metre saltwater crocodile in a glass fronted display. When we were there, he was lying on the bottom of the water but would rise slowly to the surface every 10 minutes or so to get a breath, before sinking silently down again.

,p>We all marvelled at the enormous walk-in aviary, set in a section of monsoon rain-forest. The display is organised so that a raised walk way gradually climbs higher and higher until it is up at the level of the forest canopy and allows a close up inspection of birds at all levels of the forest. The birds seem quite at home with all the human visitors. Several times a day, a show is put on with a number of trained raptors. These free flying birds wheel around the amphitheatre in return for a few tiny morsels of meat. The wedgetail eagle was the definite crowd favourite.

Oil Tunnels

We toured the Oil Tunnel display at Stokes Hill. After the bombing of Darwin in 1942 and the loss of a large amount of oil it was decided to dig 7 huge tunnels under Stokes Hill to use as oil reservoirs. Unfortunately, these were not complete until after the war and so were never used for their intended purpose. One has now been set up with a photographic display of war-time Darwin. The tunnel itself is of staggering proportions, at some 170 metres long and 10 metres in diameter. It would have held a huge quantity of oil. The display is rather moving and one gets the sense that the series of bombings that Darwin suffered have been all too easily forgotten. The loss of over 200 lives was not widely known in Australia at the time. It seems to me that Aussies making pilgrimages here each anniversary may have more relevance today that remembering the Gallipoli fiasco.

Fishing

We hired a 4.3 metre boat and towed it East to fish the Finnis River in the fresh water. We had put out some traps the previous night in the hope of getting a few cherrabin for live bait but without success. Things weren’t looking up either when the temperature gauge on the sounder read 25 degrees in the river, somewhat colder than desirable to get barra active. After a bit of a cruise along the river (and sighting a couple of salties) we decided to pull out and launch in nearby Bynoe Harbour and try bait fishing. This proved little better with only a few small cod a javelin fish and one bream. Despite the meagre catch, we had a great day exploring the different water ways and observing the abundant birdlife.

Darwin Wharf

No visit to Darwin is complete without at least one visit to the wharf for fish and chips or a Laksa. We made two trips and where never disappointed with the quality and price. On one trip, our curiosity was aroused by the sight of a naval &quotrubber-duck&quot coming alongside a dilapidated fishing boat and putting a 6 man boarding party aboard. The fishing boat crew appeared to be middle aged Aussie types more at home in Nimbin than the water. After 20 minutes or so and several parades past the wharf, the navy left the vessel alone. There was much speculation amongst the diners as to the story behind the event.

Kakadu

We spent a couple of days in Kakadu, staying overnight in a chalet in a caravan park in Jabiru. Jabiru is quite a substantial town these days with most facilities. Ron and Dorothy struggled with some of the walking required for the many sights in Kakadu but battled on bravely through several lengthy walks. We marvelled at the incredible rock art galleries at Ubirr and Nourlangie. So much of the scenery in Kakadu one feels familiar with because of the amount of media exposure the place receives. The views from Ubirr and Nourlangie are great examples of this with the escarpment views and wetland plains being very familiar. However, the real thing certainly beats the pictures.

We gazed upon the seemingly endless wetlands filled with an abundance of bird life. We spent ages learning more about the ecology and history of Arnhem Land in the Interpretive Centre. This display is the finest of its kind I have seen anywhere and quickly captivates visitors with the variety and creativity of the displays. By the time we had returned to Tumbling Waters, we were exhausted, with 600kms and many hours walking behind us. Kakadu remains over rated to my mind but we did agree that there was more to see and do than our previous fleeting visit had uncovered. Perhaps too, we bring a wealth of top-end experience with us so many of the things that Kakadu offers we take for granted. What is brought out by the Kakadu experience is the importance of the three great river systems the Park serves to preserve. These are rated as among the most pristine ecologies on Earth and I would not doubt it.

Wangi Falls

We had toured Litchfield National Park before so we decided to skip the main tour and just take a day trip down to Wangi Falls. We took the unsealed back road from Berri Springs, saving a lot of kilometres and time but costing a tyre. Wangi Falls were crowded with tourists, many of whom were swimming. Both falls were flowing well. Ron and Dorothy relaxed and read while Christine and I swam over to get a dunking under the main fall. Great scenery, great picnic, great day.

Mandorah

Mandorah is a small settlement of largely holiday shacks and rural retreats across the harbour from Darwin and serviced by a ferry from Cullen Bay or accessed via 120km road around the bottom of the harbour. The Darwin media is suggesting that Mandorah is about to become the Manly of the NT and that a real estate boom is fast approaching. Others suggest a bridge to rival Sydney’s is on the cards. We were drawn to Mandorah by the promise of fish and chips at the pub. We found a Mandorah that has a very long way to go to rival Manly and a pub that has clearly seen better days. Despite this, we enjoyed a pleasant meal overlooking Darwin Harbour with the Darwin skyline in the distance.

Tuesday 14 August to Wednesday 15 August

We put Ron and Dorothy aboard a plane on Tuesday, Ron well in the grips of a cold and Dorothy looking like succumbing. We had a busy but thoroughly enjoyable week and had managed to escape any family feuds (mainly because they did what they were told). Wednesday was spent organising our gear and preparing for life on the road once again. Work in Katherine was beckoning and time starting to run out. We figured we just had time to get over to Corroboree Billabong for a few days fishing before the move South.

Kununurra to Darwin

Monday 16 July and Tuesday 17 July – Kununurra

Trevor and Emma packed early and got off on the return trip to Fitzroy Crossing, leaving us to a day of housework and general repairs. We will miss their company and have really enjoyed the week together. It seems like a lot longer because we managed to pack so much in to each day. We used the next couple of days to recharge our own batteries, take a few long bike rides and catch up on reading.

Wednesday 18 July and Thursday 19 July – Timber Creek

The following day, we packed and headed East once again into the NT. This time, our target was Timber Creek and the chance to fish the tidal section of the Victoria River. Timber Creek is a small town some 170km from Kununurra and has only basic facilities such as a small supermarket, police station, school, council chambers, two caravan parks and two pubs. They have their priorities right! At the back of the park we stayed in was a suspension bridge over a lovely stretch of Timber Creek itself. Every evening at 5pm, the owners fed the resident group of freshwater crocodiles. The park itself had only very basic amenities but despite this, everyone remarked on the charm of the place and many people were staying longer than they first planned.

We loved our time at Timber Creek even though we did very little. We did spend an afternoon on the river, catching little except a few small catfish. The tidal parts of the river are not as attractive as the freshwater stretches and so cruising the river is not an end in itself. We did head in close to the bank a couple of times to check out some rather large saltwater crocodiles, the biggest around the 4 metre mark and somewhat bigger than our little boat. Despite the lack of fish it was well worthwhile

Friday 20 July to Sunday 22 July – Victoria River

Leaving Timber Creek, it was a short drive of 100kms or so down the road to Victoria River. There is no town as such, just a roadhouse and station buildings with a basic camping area attached. This is a place we had only ever driven through before and not paid much attention to. The immediate surrounds are spectacular, with the Victoria River carving a large and spectacular gorge through the sandstone highlands. While booking in to the camp grounds, we noticed that they were advertising helicopter flights through the gorge and up the river. At $100 for 20 minutes, this was a lot cheaper than the Bungles so we jumped at the chance, now fully fledged helicopter lovers. We organised an evening flight for 5pm, when the wind would drop and the sun light up the walls of the gorge.

The flight was incredible. We both agree it is the highlight of the trip to date. At one point, the chopper hovered alongside some beautiful aboriginal artworks and stayed there until a sudden gust of wind prompted the pilot to peel off into a dive. At another point, he went down to only 2 or 3 metres above the river to fly over a sand bar and scare a couple of crocs. It was a huge buzz. Now we don’t even care what we see from the chopper; we just love the flight.

Victoria River proved to be a magic place. For 3 days we watched the travellers come and go but we stayed on and loved it. We completed a strenuous but wonderful walk up the escarpment at Joe’s Creek and marvelled at the vegetation and staggering views. We put the boat in and fished the fresh water. The river looked perfect for barra, with lots of deep water full of inviting snags. Alas, the result was the same as the saltwater and the barra proved elusive, as did the sooty grunter. I am sure that at the right time of year this place would be incredible. Not catching fish was a lot easier to take in this part of the world because the scenery was so amazing while we were on the river. At one point, we came across a dead freshwater crocodile, an all too common sight in this part of the NT these days as the cane toad advances. Eventually, the effect on wildlife diminishes as the locals come to learn that cane toad don’t make a healthy snack.

Monday 23 July to Friday 27 July – Katherine

On Monday morning, we reluctantly packed up and headed East to Katherine, booking in to our much loved Riverview Park. From here, it is an easy walk down the hill from the back gate to Katherine’s lovely thermal springs. A long soak in the springs every afternoon and a chat to the many travellers who end up there is an absolute must. After a spot of shopping, Christine started ringing around the local schools in search of work. After only two schools, we had enough work to satisfy our needs over the next week or so. Sight-seeing is not a high priority for us around Katherine because we have been here a lot during our time in Kalumburu so it is a great chance to cash up. We did take a trip out to Nitmiluk National Park (Katherine Gorge) for a look and a relaxing swim. Some other travellers were booked in the following day for a breakfast cruise in the gorge and we logged this away for a future event.

Work for the week was at a wonderful school in South Katherine called MacFarlane. It has around 300 students, beautiful grounds, excellent facilities, very well behaved children and a friendly and professional staff. We worked on a two for one basis, teaching together as one salary. Our role was to take small groups of ESL (English as a Second Language) students and a maths group. Much of our time was also spent giving one-on-one diagnostic maths tests. It was enjoyable work in an excellent school. The Principal suggested that we stay on for the term and we were both tempted. At the end of the week, we both felt that we had been on a PD and learned so much. We may return here on our way South.

Saturday 28 July to Monday 30 July – Roper Bar

With no work until the following Tuesday, we planned a “long weekend” trip down to Roper Bar. This involved a drive South to Mataranka then a 170km drive East, about 45km of which was on unsealed but good roads. Roper Bar itself is a small store situated on the banks of the Roper River. A crossing on the river marks the border with aboriginal lands and the community of Ngukurr lies across the river itself. We stayed in a small camping area with toilets and hot showers but no power. The river here is fresh but experiences a tidal influence of around one and a half metres. We set up camp near a couple who had been there for 6 weeks. In that time, they had caught 10 barra, most of them in recent days with the water starting to warm up. With the boat set up, he showed us how to navigate the rock bars downstream. We set off full of hope of a good fish and explored a beautiful stretch of water, full of exciting snags and promising looking rock bars. Frustration soon set in. We tried lures and live bait, all to no avail. To add insult to injury, the neighbour returned with three barra. We could even see him fishing from where we were.

A highlight of fishing the Roper was the sight of a large buffalo wallowing in the water. This was our first wild buffalo. We eased into the bank with the boat and camera. He had his back to us and was just getting ready for a good roll in the water when he looked over his shoulder and saw us only 20 metres away (but safely in deep water). The poor animal panicked and bolted up the bank, before turning and snorting aggressively at us. We were both glad of the stretch of water between us. Roper Bar is a wonderful spot and we are determined to come back for an extended stay at such future date. It is easy to see why we came across a few people who had set up a semi-permanent camp there.

On the drive back to Katherine, we stopped in to the famed thermal pools of Mataranka for a swim. Unfortunately, they are suffering from the heavy impact of tourism and no longer hold the magic that they did when we first visited in 1990. It seems like every part of the pool was occupied by a grey nomad and the vegetation has not regrown properly following the impact of a cyclone in 2005. Despite this, the water is still wonderfully warm and retains its crystalline clarity.

Tuesday 31 July Back in Katherine

Seeing as we were only returning to Katherine for work, we decided to book into a Motel for a couple of nights. We both had teaching roles at another Katherine School, Clyde Fenton Primary School. Christine had a Year 1 while I had a Year 3. Once again, we were astounded by the resourcing and facilities in the school. Both Katherine schools have been better resourced than anything we have experienced in WA. The staff was welcoming and envious of our lifestyle. We have an arrangement to return to Clyde Fenton in several weeks for our trip South.

Wednesday 1 August to Sunday 5 August – Darwin

With work commitments in Katherine satisfied, we headed North to Darwin to prepare for the Ron and Dorothy’s arrival next week. We also wanted some time in Darwin to shop around for another vehicle. Our talk along the way has focussed on the possibility of buying a 4WD tray top Landcruiser or Patrol. If the right vehicle presents in Darwin, we might be persuaded. We had organised a site at KOA Caravan Park in Malak, choosing it because it had all en-suite facilities. This would be far more convenient while Ron and Dorothy were with us. However, on arrival we were dismayed to find that they did not cater for camper trailers, with all sites being set up for caravans only and a policy in force that did not allow any camping on grassed areas. Much disgruntled, we set about the difficult task of finding alternative accommodation. Darwin at this time of year is bulging at the seams. A fruitless tour of all the Parks failed to turn up anything suitable. We decided to check out a park called “Tumbling Waters”, some 65km out of Darwin on the Cox Peninsula Road near Berry Springs. We had had rave reviews of this place from a number of travellers along the way and we reasoned that the extra distance out of Darwin would be off-set by the close proximity to attractions such as Litchfield National Park and the Territory Wildlife park. A phone call confirmed that they had good priced cabins available for Ron and Dorothy and space for the camper.

On arrival at Tumbling Waters, we realised that things had fallen our way. The place is every bit as beautiful as other travellers had described. The owners seemed to fall over themselves to help and gave us an excellent discount for an extended stay. They run a small bar and offer deck chair movie showings on Wednesday and Saturday nights. In the middle of the park, is a large fenced in pond area with a decked raised walk access which is home to a number of freshwater crocodiles. The pool is large and warm. Bordering the park is a freshwater billabong that is rumoured to contain sooty grunter, mangrove jacks and cherrabin. The owner will lend fishing gear and cherrabin traps. On the other side is the Blackmore River, a tidal river which is said to be good for salmon, jewfish and trevally on the rising tide.

We set up camp in a grassy shaded area adjacent to the camp kitchen. The next few days consisted of exploring the surrounds, including a spot of fishing in nearby Bynoe Harbour. We didn’t fill the boat but a few cod and silver grunter provided a meal. We are not far from Berry Springs Nature Park, a lovely stream of good shimming water, fed by a thermal spring. We snorkelled through all three crystal clear pools and saw barramundi, sooty grunter, catfish, mangrove jack, tarpon and long toms.

A trip in to Darwin was made to check out the available tray top utes for sale. It soon became evident that buying one in Darwin was not a good option. There were very few available and those that were lacked any of the extras for camping that we would want. We decided to make do with the Explorer for the time being and tackle the issue back in Perth when we had more time. The rest of the days passed peacefully as we enjoyed the beauty of Tumbling Waters and awaited the arrival of Ron and Dorothy on Monday.

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