Tag: Katherine

Katherine and Berry Springs

The last few weeks have seen the weather really heat up. It seems as though we went from putting on track suits at night to sleeping with the fan on in one day and things haven’t looked back since.

gorge3.jpgWe hit Katherine and contacted the local schools only to find that we needed a “Relief Teacher Card” as well as NT Teacher Registration. This meant more form completion and seeking copies of qualifications etc. Christine found this easier than me because hers are more recent so in the end we got a card for her to work and I am reduced to her volunteer lacky. The plus side of this is that schools can’t talk both of us into working.

gorge2.jpgOur time in Katherine consisted of working, lazing around in the hot springs and a breakfast cruise on the gorge (Nitmuluk). Unfortunately, this was just before the hot weather arrived and we were absulutely frozen for much of the cruise. The scenery was certainly spectacular and the guide entertained all with his well-rehearsed commentary.gorge1.jpg

With the hot weather really lifting water temperatures, we got hopeful and tried a couple of times to fish on the Katherine River in the little boat. Nothing doing however. So we made plans to head North up to Daly River. Unfortunately, we both came down with a really nasty flu. By the time we arrived at the Daly, we just wanted to curl up and sleep but it was too hot. Somehow, we packed again and drove up through Litchfield National Park across a tiny track. In other times, it would have been a wonderful adventure but all we wanted was the shortest route through to Berry Springs and an air-conditioned cabin at Tumbling Waters. We hired a neat little cabin for a couple of days and lazed around in the cool until we felt well enough to venture out.

The schools around Berry Springs seem to be quite well off for relief teachers so we haven’t been picking up work, although we are booked for a day at Humpty Doo tomorrow. We have done some more fishing, with mixed success. We even went on a charter on Darwin Harbour but that was also pretty poor. Our best effort just got us tea with a small golden snapper, a small jewfish and a javelin fish. Catching fish up here is not as easy as the books make out. Most days, we find ways of avoiding the heat of the middle of the day. Yesterday, we spent the day at Berry Springs with a BBQ, lots of swimming in the crystal clear warm waters and snorkelling with some wonderful fish life. I guess we can’t complain.

Derek and Joy will arrive in a couple of days and we will start a week of “tourist adventures”. We can’t wait.

Darwin to Alice

Thursday 16 August to Saturday 18 August – Corroboree Billabong

We packed up (a big job after a full fortnight in the one place) and drove out along the Arnhem Highway to Corroboree Billabong. This beautiful place is part of the Mary River Wetlands system, upstream of Shady Camp. It consists of a number of interconnected billabongs, usually around 3 metres deep but up to 10 metres deep in places. Camping is possible on either side of the system and accessed by a 20km stretch of good gravel from the highway.

We arrived to find an excellent concrete boat ramp, a fleet of houseboats for hire and a steady stream of boats launching and retrieving. The word in the local papers was that Corroboree was fishing well for barra in the 60-75cm range with the water starting to warm up. Unfortunately, the weather forecast was less exciting with possible rain forecast for Saturday. We found an excellent shady camp site far enough back from the water to be safe from crocodiles and set up. We assembled the boat on the trailer but delayed fishing until the next day. As night fell, the insects moved in. Being part of a huge wetland system, the mossies were rife. We quickly found that the repellent and mossie coils would not cope. They went up the nose, in the ears and got stuck in the corners of the eyes. Under very trying conditions, we erected the screen enclosure and locked ourselves in. The noise of the insects hammering against the screen trying to get to us was bad enough. It seems as though the drill will be to prepare tea before dark and then stay behind screening for the night.

Friday morning greeted us with dull overcast skies and the distant rumble of thunder. The temperature had dropped to a level that puts barra to sleep. Despite this, we launched the boat and spent a very pleasant morning trying hard to wake them up. There were lots of others out and about as well and no one was doing any better than us. The only fish caught was a 45cm sleepy cod, a northern species of freshwater gudgeon. As the name suggests, it fought like a paper bag. The fish guide gave it the thumbs up for edibility so we kept it for lunch. By the time we got back to camp, the chance of rain looked much higher. We cooked up the sleepy cod, It proved to have very white flesh in big flakes and was quite tasty, certainly worth eating.

By the afternoon, the rain had set in, light at first and causing little nuisance because of the lack of wind. We drove back to the highway to get some generator fuel at the roadhouse and found stretches that varied from becoming slushy to bone dry. The rain increased to the point where we were mopping up around the place and getting thoroughly fed up. This was our second lot of top-end unseasonal rain. In fact, we were getting off lightly, with some areas receiving 25mm. The system that caused it then drifted South East and caused extensive flooding and damage down in Southern Queensland.

We decided to stay on for Saturday and give everything a chance to dry out. Back on the billabong, the sun had brought out all the wildlife. The birds were in great numbers and we marvelled at the magpie geese and jabiru storks. The warm weather was encouraging the crocs too, and we realised just what a large population the billabong supports. At one point, I wanted to navigate down a narrow channel to get to another billabong. The channel narrowed to about 4 metres across but right on the point was a crocodile of equal size. In a boat that measures only 3.1 metres, we took the safety option and turned around. Another time we saw a bloated wallaby travelling at speed cross the top of the water. The explanation for this strange sight proved to be a crocodile carrying his prize away to be consumed.

The fishing proved no better than the previous day. Despite the lack of barra, the experience of fishing Corroboree is not to be missed. The scenery and wildlife is incredible. I’m not sure I’d hire a houseboat here though, with the insect issue at night and the hesitation at sitting our on a low balcony at night with the crocs. All in all, a place we would both like to come back to.

Sunday 19 August to Thursday 23 August – Katherine

Leaving Corroboree, it was a quick run back down south to Katherine. We booked in for the third time to the Riverview Tourist Park. We always stay here because it is shady, comfortable and is only a stroll out the back gate to the hot springs. In reality, it is a short ride to the hot springs because we always ride our bikes. This is an effortless cruise downhill to the springs (I actually hit 45 kph one time) but a low-gear grind back to the top of the hill on the return.

We had Monday to ourselves and occupied ourselves by taking an extended bike ride around the river, through the Low Level Park and across the far embankment to re-cross the river at the old railway bridge. Katherine is very well provided for in terms of cycle ways and we have made excellent use of them. On Wednesday, we made arrangements to have the car serviced at a dealer some 7kms from the camp. Again we made use of the cycle ways and cycled to and from the car place to drop off and pick up.

Tuesday and Thursday were work days at Clyde Fenton Primary School. We had a Year 6/7 class. The staff welcomed us back from our previous work there and we knew our way around the school so we quickly settled in. The class was a terrific group of kids and once again we thoroughly enjoyed our time teaching. The kids certainly seem to appreciate that they are getting two teachers and we find it both easy and enjoyable to work together. We seem to instinctively know when the other should take charge and balance the load very well. We have plans to return to Katherine next year and look forward to working at both Clyde Fenton and MacFarlane again.

Friday 24 August to Saturday 25 August – Katherine to Alice Springs

We spent three days driving south on the Stuart Highway, stopping briefly at Larimah to look at an interesting museum reflecting the tiny town’s past as a communications and rail link. Another diversion was the Tennant Creek Overland Telegraph Station, a spectacular collection of buildings preserved in near original condition and displaying the lonely life of the telegraph operators. We had hoped to find some photographic record of the telegraph operators during WWII since my Father had been stationed there during the war. Alas, this aspect of Tennant Creek’s history seems to be overlooked and we found nothing save a few photos of troops in transit.

Another amazing place was the Daly Waters Pub. This incredible building was at one time an international flight terminal for QANTAS. It is hard to imagine the most well-heeled of travellers soaking up the ambience of the place as it was then. Now however, it is a priceless treasure. It contains an extensive collection of memorabilia from the thousands of travellers who have passed this way, including bras, undies, thongs, credit cards, passports, money, medicare cards….you name it and it’s there. I went off to the loo for a pee and was surprised by the sight of a young bloke painting the walls. He ignored me while I did the business before dryly saying “They say that a man who paints the toilet is a shithouse painter.” This comment seemed to sum up the whole place. We did a very unusual thing for us and had a beer before driving off for the next leg of our journey.

We spent two nights on the road, one at the magnificent Devil’s Marbles. I had heard from other travellers that these were a disappointment but we followed the advice of the guide books and ensured that we stayed overnight in order to catch both the sunset and the dawn over the rocks. It proved to be one of the highlights of the trip. The formations are amazing, not as big as many of the tourist promotions suggest but possessing a very changeable beauty as the light changes. Once again we got the bikes out and spent the afternoon riding amongst the numerous granite formations. The night time temperature is starting to drop once again so a camp fire kept us happy into the evening.

Sunday 26 August to Tuesday 28 August – Alice Springs

We reached Alice around noon on Sunday. With camp set up. We headed into town to explore. The place was rather quiet, being Sunday afternoon but there was sufficient open to keep us interested. Alice is much bigger than I had expected and seems to have all facilities one would require. The central CBD is certainly dominated by Aboriginal Art Galleries, mostly staffed by distinctly white staff. We found a number of aboriginal families sitting on the central grassed areas offering paintings that they claimed as their own and after some inspections and negotiations bought a small painting as a memento.

On Monday, we explored Alice further and took a trip out into the East MacDonald Ranges to Emmas Gap and Jessie Gap. Both were interesting features but after nearly four months of gorges we are a bit “gorged out”.

Tuesday morning we had planned as a trip highlight – hot air ballooning at dawn. This meant getting up at 4:30 to be ready for a 5am pick-up. The recent minimum temperatures of 1 or 2 degrees had us worried but luckily the weather had warmed and we could expect a very comfortable 6 or 7. With several layers of clothing and a beanie each, we waited out the front for the bus.The trip had two options; the half hour flight or the one hour flight. We figured half and hour of floating away with little to no control was enough. Each balloon was capable of carrying 16 passengers and a pilot in a segmented wicker basket. The bus arrived towing a trailer with the basket aboard and the balloon stuffed into a large canvas bag. Once out into the desert, the pilot launched a couple of helium filled balloons fitted with LEDs to track the wind before selecting a launch site. Then it was a matter of setting up the gear and inflating the balloon. I got the job of holding the balloon up in the air until the hot air would support itself. The heat from the burners was welcome at first but before long I started to feel like a crumpet. Once the balloon reared overhead, the pilot called for “all aboard” and we clambered over into the wicker basket. Thankfully, it was still dark because I don’t think the sight of lots of ballooning newbies spilling over into the basket was all that inspiring. Christine and I were still wondering what was next when I suddenly realised that we were off the ground and moving away.

The flight and the sight of the approaching dawn was amazing and justified the whole experience. We looked out over Alice Springs and the East MacDonald Ranges as the balloon drifted away at a lazy 10kph. The burners continued to lift us up to around 2000ft before the descent commenced. The pilot was in constant radio contact with the bus and as we drifted North-West and descended, he directed the bus along tracks, through gates and across the desert to the predicted landing site. They had obviously done this before because everything went smoothly, although the 10 metres drag across the ground on landing was interesting. Once down, everyone was pressed into service to deflate the balloon and pack things away. Once done, we headed off to a bush camp site nearby where a sumptuous champagne and chicken breakfast awaited. This was a never-to-be forgotten experience and one that I would recommend to all. What a blast!

With breakfast over, we broke camp and hit the road again, heading West to the West MacDonald Ranges.

Kununurra to Darwin

Monday 16 July and Tuesday 17 July – Kununurra

Trevor and Emma packed early and got off on the return trip to Fitzroy Crossing, leaving us to a day of housework and general repairs. We will miss their company and have really enjoyed the week together. It seems like a lot longer because we managed to pack so much in to each day. We used the next couple of days to recharge our own batteries, take a few long bike rides and catch up on reading.

Wednesday 18 July and Thursday 19 July – Timber Creek

The following day, we packed and headed East once again into the NT. This time, our target was Timber Creek and the chance to fish the tidal section of the Victoria River. Timber Creek is a small town some 170km from Kununurra and has only basic facilities such as a small supermarket, police station, school, council chambers, two caravan parks and two pubs. They have their priorities right! At the back of the park we stayed in was a suspension bridge over a lovely stretch of Timber Creek itself. Every evening at 5pm, the owners fed the resident group of freshwater crocodiles. The park itself had only very basic amenities but despite this, everyone remarked on the charm of the place and many people were staying longer than they first planned.

We loved our time at Timber Creek even though we did very little. We did spend an afternoon on the river, catching little except a few small catfish. The tidal parts of the river are not as attractive as the freshwater stretches and so cruising the river is not an end in itself. We did head in close to the bank a couple of times to check out some rather large saltwater crocodiles, the biggest around the 4 metre mark and somewhat bigger than our little boat. Despite the lack of fish it was well worthwhile

Friday 20 July to Sunday 22 July – Victoria River

Leaving Timber Creek, it was a short drive of 100kms or so down the road to Victoria River. There is no town as such, just a roadhouse and station buildings with a basic camping area attached. This is a place we had only ever driven through before and not paid much attention to. The immediate surrounds are spectacular, with the Victoria River carving a large and spectacular gorge through the sandstone highlands. While booking in to the camp grounds, we noticed that they were advertising helicopter flights through the gorge and up the river. At $100 for 20 minutes, this was a lot cheaper than the Bungles so we jumped at the chance, now fully fledged helicopter lovers. We organised an evening flight for 5pm, when the wind would drop and the sun light up the walls of the gorge.

The flight was incredible. We both agree it is the highlight of the trip to date. At one point, the chopper hovered alongside some beautiful aboriginal artworks and stayed there until a sudden gust of wind prompted the pilot to peel off into a dive. At another point, he went down to only 2 or 3 metres above the river to fly over a sand bar and scare a couple of crocs. It was a huge buzz. Now we don’t even care what we see from the chopper; we just love the flight.

Victoria River proved to be a magic place. For 3 days we watched the travellers come and go but we stayed on and loved it. We completed a strenuous but wonderful walk up the escarpment at Joe’s Creek and marvelled at the vegetation and staggering views. We put the boat in and fished the fresh water. The river looked perfect for barra, with lots of deep water full of inviting snags. Alas, the result was the same as the saltwater and the barra proved elusive, as did the sooty grunter. I am sure that at the right time of year this place would be incredible. Not catching fish was a lot easier to take in this part of the world because the scenery was so amazing while we were on the river. At one point, we came across a dead freshwater crocodile, an all too common sight in this part of the NT these days as the cane toad advances. Eventually, the effect on wildlife diminishes as the locals come to learn that cane toad don’t make a healthy snack.

Monday 23 July to Friday 27 July – Katherine

On Monday morning, we reluctantly packed up and headed East to Katherine, booking in to our much loved Riverview Park. From here, it is an easy walk down the hill from the back gate to Katherine’s lovely thermal springs. A long soak in the springs every afternoon and a chat to the many travellers who end up there is an absolute must. After a spot of shopping, Christine started ringing around the local schools in search of work. After only two schools, we had enough work to satisfy our needs over the next week or so. Sight-seeing is not a high priority for us around Katherine because we have been here a lot during our time in Kalumburu so it is a great chance to cash up. We did take a trip out to Nitmiluk National Park (Katherine Gorge) for a look and a relaxing swim. Some other travellers were booked in the following day for a breakfast cruise in the gorge and we logged this away for a future event.

Work for the week was at a wonderful school in South Katherine called MacFarlane. It has around 300 students, beautiful grounds, excellent facilities, very well behaved children and a friendly and professional staff. We worked on a two for one basis, teaching together as one salary. Our role was to take small groups of ESL (English as a Second Language) students and a maths group. Much of our time was also spent giving one-on-one diagnostic maths tests. It was enjoyable work in an excellent school. The Principal suggested that we stay on for the term and we were both tempted. At the end of the week, we both felt that we had been on a PD and learned so much. We may return here on our way South.

Saturday 28 July to Monday 30 July – Roper Bar

With no work until the following Tuesday, we planned a “long weekend” trip down to Roper Bar. This involved a drive South to Mataranka then a 170km drive East, about 45km of which was on unsealed but good roads. Roper Bar itself is a small store situated on the banks of the Roper River. A crossing on the river marks the border with aboriginal lands and the community of Ngukurr lies across the river itself. We stayed in a small camping area with toilets and hot showers but no power. The river here is fresh but experiences a tidal influence of around one and a half metres. We set up camp near a couple who had been there for 6 weeks. In that time, they had caught 10 barra, most of them in recent days with the water starting to warm up. With the boat set up, he showed us how to navigate the rock bars downstream. We set off full of hope of a good fish and explored a beautiful stretch of water, full of exciting snags and promising looking rock bars. Frustration soon set in. We tried lures and live bait, all to no avail. To add insult to injury, the neighbour returned with three barra. We could even see him fishing from where we were.

A highlight of fishing the Roper was the sight of a large buffalo wallowing in the water. This was our first wild buffalo. We eased into the bank with the boat and camera. He had his back to us and was just getting ready for a good roll in the water when he looked over his shoulder and saw us only 20 metres away (but safely in deep water). The poor animal panicked and bolted up the bank, before turning and snorting aggressively at us. We were both glad of the stretch of water between us. Roper Bar is a wonderful spot and we are determined to come back for an extended stay at such future date. It is easy to see why we came across a few people who had set up a semi-permanent camp there.

On the drive back to Katherine, we stopped in to the famed thermal pools of Mataranka for a swim. Unfortunately, they are suffering from the heavy impact of tourism and no longer hold the magic that they did when we first visited in 1990. It seems like every part of the pool was occupied by a grey nomad and the vegetation has not regrown properly following the impact of a cyclone in 2005. Despite this, the water is still wonderfully warm and retains its crystalline clarity.

Tuesday 31 July Back in Katherine

Seeing as we were only returning to Katherine for work, we decided to book into a Motel for a couple of nights. We both had teaching roles at another Katherine School, Clyde Fenton Primary School. Christine had a Year 1 while I had a Year 3. Once again, we were astounded by the resourcing and facilities in the school. Both Katherine schools have been better resourced than anything we have experienced in WA. The staff was welcoming and envious of our lifestyle. We have an arrangement to return to Clyde Fenton in several weeks for our trip South.

Wednesday 1 August to Sunday 5 August – Darwin

With work commitments in Katherine satisfied, we headed North to Darwin to prepare for the Ron and Dorothy’s arrival next week. We also wanted some time in Darwin to shop around for another vehicle. Our talk along the way has focussed on the possibility of buying a 4WD tray top Landcruiser or Patrol. If the right vehicle presents in Darwin, we might be persuaded. We had organised a site at KOA Caravan Park in Malak, choosing it because it had all en-suite facilities. This would be far more convenient while Ron and Dorothy were with us. However, on arrival we were dismayed to find that they did not cater for camper trailers, with all sites being set up for caravans only and a policy in force that did not allow any camping on grassed areas. Much disgruntled, we set about the difficult task of finding alternative accommodation. Darwin at this time of year is bulging at the seams. A fruitless tour of all the Parks failed to turn up anything suitable. We decided to check out a park called “Tumbling Waters”, some 65km out of Darwin on the Cox Peninsula Road near Berry Springs. We had had rave reviews of this place from a number of travellers along the way and we reasoned that the extra distance out of Darwin would be off-set by the close proximity to attractions such as Litchfield National Park and the Territory Wildlife park. A phone call confirmed that they had good priced cabins available for Ron and Dorothy and space for the camper.

On arrival at Tumbling Waters, we realised that things had fallen our way. The place is every bit as beautiful as other travellers had described. The owners seemed to fall over themselves to help and gave us an excellent discount for an extended stay. They run a small bar and offer deck chair movie showings on Wednesday and Saturday nights. In the middle of the park, is a large fenced in pond area with a decked raised walk access which is home to a number of freshwater crocodiles. The pool is large and warm. Bordering the park is a freshwater billabong that is rumoured to contain sooty grunter, mangrove jacks and cherrabin. The owner will lend fishing gear and cherrabin traps. On the other side is the Blackmore River, a tidal river which is said to be good for salmon, jewfish and trevally on the rising tide.

We set up camp in a grassy shaded area adjacent to the camp kitchen. The next few days consisted of exploring the surrounds, including a spot of fishing in nearby Bynoe Harbour. We didn’t fill the boat but a few cod and silver grunter provided a meal. We are not far from Berry Springs Nature Park, a lovely stream of good shimming water, fed by a thermal spring. We snorkelled through all three crystal clear pools and saw barramundi, sooty grunter, catfish, mangrove jack, tarpon and long toms.

A trip in to Darwin was made to check out the available tray top utes for sale. It soon became evident that buying one in Darwin was not a good option. There were very few available and those that were lacked any of the extras for camping that we would want. We decided to make do with the Explorer for the time being and tackle the issue back in Perth when we had more time. The rest of the days passed peacefully as we enjoyed the beauty of Tumbling Waters and awaited the arrival of Ron and Dorothy on Monday.

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