Tag: Croatia

Sailing Croatia 2019

September 20, 2019 /

The much awaited day of boarding our two week charter yacht arrived. We were not due to board until 4pm so we had plenty of time for last minute supplies and a general relax. Fortunately, our Air BnB hosts in Trogir were happy for us to stay as late as we needed. With all the gear and provisions, we deemed it best to get transport to the marina. While we were in the process of getting an Uber, our host kindly offered a lift in her mother’s car. Christine, Helen and all the luggage were squeezed into the car and Mario and I walked across the island to the ACI Marina.

We entered the charter office in high spirits but the end of a long summer charter season was reflected in the manager’s eyes, along with dollar signs. He skipped through the necessary papers as quickly as possible to get to the money part, where huge piles of cash seemed to mount up in front of him, all of it ours.

We located our boat, aptly named “Aquaholic” and met our skipper, who announced that we were sailing in half an hour. This was news to us because our instructions were that we were to spend the first night in Trogir. In hindsight, this would have been the best thing because it would give a good chance to thoroughly go through all the things about the boat while there was at least a slight chance of having problems rectified. One of the difficulties in chartering at the end of a season is that the little unattended maintenance issues mount up and as the cruise progressed, we were to discover the hatches that leaked, the lights that didn’t work and the plumbing issues that annoyed. As a whole, the boat was very good, with three double cabins and a set of bunks. With Lucy and Alex no longer able to join us, we had the luxury of the bunk room to use as storage and a changing room. The galley was well equipped and the fridge big enough to keep us going without the need to buy ice. Talking to others along the way, the condition of our charter boat was much on a par with others, with everyone having a list of things that need attention.

Aquaholic had been recently fitted with a new main sail and new bimini and dodger so things looked trim. She sailed very well and was extremely comfortable even in quite big seas. Our skipper was always happy to put the sails up and make use of the wind whereas we noted that many boats simply motored a lot. It is always a lot more comfortable with the sails up.

Our skipper, Lordan, was a middle aged Croatian national who spends the season skippering charters with some time away working oil rigs. He had done 14 weeks straight to date. He has a wife and two children so I guess he doesn’t get to see all that much of them. Still, the whole economy seems geared up to work flat out in the summer and back off for the winter.

Our first night was in a small cove near Maslinica on the island of Solta. We motor sailed in light conditions and picked up a buoy near last light. This was to be our introduction to the system of anchorages in Croatia. Basically, there are five choices for spending the night.

  1. Anchor. Our skipper dislikes this option for anything other than a daytime swim because the water is often very deep and the anchor is OK but not brilliant. I concur with his assessment.
  2. Take a buoy. Some buoys are owned by restaurants and they will let you stay for free as long as you go to the restaurant (they tend to be expensive). Other buoys are owned by the local port authority. Buoys can cost anywhere between $45 and $100 a night depending on location. Staying on a buoy means we have to use the dinghy to go ashore.
  3. Back on to the harbour pier. This is convenient but more expensive, costing between $75 and $120. It can also be a noisy night or a fun night, depending on your neighbours.
  4. Go into a marina. This is the most expensive option, with most being over $100 a night.

For our first night, we had little choice, the skipper pre-arranging a buoy owned by a restaurant which proved to have a limited and rather pricey menu. All in all, the crowds and number of boats are so much bigger than we anticipated that in the end one has little choice and you just go with the flow. Backing on to a wharf is probably the preferred option because it gives us complete freedom to explore the towns at will.

Life over the two weeks of sailing was so relaxing and enjoyable far beyond our expectations. Most people charter for one week only but we were so glad that we had organised two weeks because as the first week came to a close we all knew that we would have been upset to get off. After initially fussing a bit over our exact itinerary, we came to realise that everywhere was good and yet everywhere is different. Most towns have an “old town” with medieval origins but each has its own unique character. Each port is also quite unique and although the actual facilities differ, most are adequate for at least an overnight stay.

The actual itinerary was mostly out of our control, with the skipper coming up with a whole raft of reasons why we could not go where we wanted to go and should, in fact, go where he wanted to go. The motivation for these conflicts was hard to fathom. At times I leaned towards the negative viewpoint that he wanted to go where things served him best (he had a friend he wanted to catch up with, his brother was going there, he knew a restaurant owner, etc). Sometimes, the positive view held and we considered that he was just trying to do his best by us. The weather was often used as a reason why we could not go to some place we nominated. It is impossible to argue with a skipper when they play the weather and safety card because they are ultimately responsible. However, we had many dire predictions of horrendous storms and winds, none of which ever eventuated (just as the online forecasts predicted). I would show him the predictions but we would just shrug and suddenly his English would get worse. The overall consensus is that it is probably a mixture of everything. Sailing people around the Croatian Islands for 14 weeks straight would test anyone’s integrity. It was strange though that his brother kept popping up everywhere we went in the first week.

Skipper Lordan had a strict daily routine. He would rise at 8:30 no matter what and would wander off either along the wharf or in the dinghy to find coffee. He would return an hour later bearing an assortment of sweet breads to sustain him through the day. We would get underway between 9:30 and 10am, even if he had previously announced an “early start”. On big sail days, we would pull in somewhere in the early afternoon for lunch or a swim, which meant that it was time for Lordan to retire below and sleep. The time after lunch and a swim was mostly spent waiting for Lordan to wake up. Once we reached our destination, Lordan would head off to catch up with acquaintances before returning for a quick nap. This guy could sleep. He did dine with us on the boat a few times and sometimes at a restaurant. The terms state that we were responsible for feeding him so when he did accompany us to a restaurant, we paid. He usually ordered the most expensive meal of all of us. Still, he was a jovial character with a good sense of humor. His English ability was good but his hearing not so, resulting in some difficult conversations at times. A question along the lines of “How far is it to Stari Grad?” might get an answer of “There is a bit of cloud so you can’t see the stars.”

Skipper Lordan

Whenever practical, we sailed and shut down the engine. Our skipper was good that way. A boat load of New Zealanders we spoke to were peeved that they had been out for five days and hadn’t put the sails up. The boat sailed very well indeed and the few times the sea got up a bit she showed that she could handle bad conditions if needed. Fortunately, with the relatively light winds and the many islands that provide shelter, we seldom had much of a sea to contend with.

We swam most days, with the water a little chilly on entry but otherwise a good temperature. The water clarity here is amazing, it often being easy to make out the bottom in 40 feet of water. The fish life is limited and restricted to small fish and there was no coral growth. The sea grass beds look to be in reasonable condition but the bottom in areas where yachts had been anchoring was often a garbage tip with bottles, cans, clothes (mostly undies), plastic pegs and assorted bric a brac.

As always on our trips, we ate like kings, both on the boat and at restaurants. The waistline damage is yet to be fully assessed but it won’t be good. We had some excellent meals cooked on board, with Helen’s beautiful pork dish, Christine’s amazing chicken and a decadent meal of mussels, purchased from a floating mussel farm on the way up the Krka River to Skradin. One of the memorable restaurant meals include one in the old town at Stari Grad in an old three level building that reeked of ambience and boasted outstanding food. At another restaurant in the little cove of Senjska on the island of Solta we had a local dish called a Peka. This was a delicious mix of beef and lamb cuts with potatoes, carrot and cabbage slow roasted over coals in a large iron pan with a big iron cone acting as a lid. It was tender, packed full of flavour and equally full of calories. Of course, home made bread was used to soak up the juices. In Sibenik, we enjoyed a marvellous seafood mix with sardines, red mullet, shrimps and squid. There was so much food that we took home a “doggy bag”. Icecream excursions were common, with so much cheap and top quality icecream available. Bread was a bit of a mystery. Bakeries are common but they focus on sweet fare or long French style sticks. Occasionally, we managed to find some good rolls or loaves that suited but the next stop would be different again. The supermarkets tended to sell packaged white bread only suitable for toasting. The bakeries did sell some delicious pastry pieces that were filled with pork mince, a type of cheese curd or cheese and feta. They were excellent “munchy food”. We usually lunched on the boat and things seemed to build up from just a sandwich to huge spreads of continental fare, pickled octopus, olives, three types of cheese, salami, mortadella, tomatoes, etc. After a few such lunches we checked our waist lines and went back to the sandwiches.

Interaction with fellow cruisers was surprisingly limited, with few English speaking groups around and many European crews being insular to the point of not even returning a wave. Very noticeable was the number of boats crewed by large groups of young German men, who were almost universally loud, drunk and extremely late to bed. Tying up in the vicinity of such a party boat is not recommended. We did come across a boat of New Zealanders who would shout out “Hi Aussies” across the water when we met up. They were fun and far more friendly than most others. One group of young German men had few inhibitions about showering on the rear deck after swimming. Helen and Christine were particularly interested in one young man who was very generously proportioned. Much over rated I’m told. Mario and I were somewhat put out that males appear to outnumber females by about 10 to 1 in the cruising set.

Life did get to be dominated by toilets. We were all surprised to find that our boat, and many others, was not fitted with a sullage holding tank and that the toilet was a straight “pump out to sea” type. Of course, use of this in a port for “Number 2s” is definitely not on and so regular trips ashore were required to find a land based toilet. The quality of the shore toilets varied widely, as they do with caravan parks and long waits for a shower or cubicle could result in peak times. The boat did have a couple of showers, although one had very poor pressure. One of the two toilets also wasn’t functioning correctly. We all ate high fibre breakfasts and focussed on regularity.

Places we visited:

Maslinica – a small town on the north end of Solta. We used a restaurant buoy in a small cove to the south. A pretty little stop.

Kut – on the east side of Vis. Two small towns occupy a lovely deep cove. Kut is the old town and Luka the newer town. Restaurants abound, along with a few small swimming beaches. We took a buoy and enjoyed an afternoon and morning wandering around the villages and admiring the many big expensive boats entering the harbour. We were delighted to find a pretty little foreshore restaurant in Ku that was used for the filming of Mama Mia 2.

Kut and Luka on Vis

Palmizana – The Pakleni Islands are a beautiful group of isles made up of the tops of a submerged mountain range and so create a myriad small bays and coves, most filled with boats at anchor. We took a buoy in a cove called Palmizana which has a restaurant and bar, both very reasonably priced and with a varied menu. It was a short walk across the island to the ACI Marina, from where it was possible to catch a water taxi to Hvar Town on the nearby island of Hvar.

The Pakleni Islands
Palmizana on the Pakleni Islands

Stari Grad – Stari Grad is a very old town situated on the east coast of the large island of Hvar (pronounced Kwar). It was first settled by the Greeks in the 3rd Century BC but most of the old town dates from medieval times. The town is situated at the end of a long deep inlet, which contains a ferry terminal and a hotel resort complex. We moored stern on right in the middle of the old town where we could watch all the preparations for the upcoming traditional boat festival. The old town itself is simply gorgeous, with a labyrinth of tiny cobbled alleyways separating the many beautiful stone buildings and secluded courtyards. Walking through the alleyways at night with the soft glow of the street lights reflected off the marble and stone walls is one of the best experiences we have had. We enjoyed an amazing meal of local food at a three level medieval restaurant that simply dripped with ambience.

Stari Grad
A magical restaurant in Stari Grad

Hvar Town (Pronounced Kwar) – We caught a bus over the island to the popular tourist town of Hvar Town. The town was the usual collection of old stone buildings but had a large and vibrant front quay that was full of ferries and tourists. Hvar is often called “Britain’s Bali” and has a reputation stained by the sometimes poor behaviour of the younger set. We found it charming and a trip to the Spanjola, a massive fortress that overlooks the town. Not fancying the walk up the hill, we taxied up and down and spent an hour taking in the spectacular views over the town and the nearby Pakleni Islands. A visit down into the ancient dungeons opened our eyes as to just how horrible things must have been in times past if one was to fall foul of authority.

Hvar Town

Bobovisce – A little village on the northern end of the island of Brac. We tied up on mooring lines and used the tender to go across the inlet to the one restaurant and bar for a afternoon drink. Although small, the village was pretty and provided a cheap night anchorage.

Bobovisce on Island of Brac

Primosten – a very old island fort town just off the mainland north of Trogir. We moored stern on alongside some huge luxury yachts and took in to beautiful surrounds. The town is a very popular tourist resort, boasting three excellent beaches on different sides of the town so no matter what the wind direction there is a good beach. Being a Friday night, the town pumped up with a live band in the town square. The music went on until 5am and life was a lot slower the next morning. There are lovely walks around the island and up to the large church at the top of the town. Primosten would make a great holiday destination.

Primosten with its beautiful beaches

Sibenik – A large town and port a short distance into the Krka River system. The town features a long waterfront and promenade. Three fortresses of varying sizes look out over the town from the hills above, an indication of the strategic importance of the town in times past. The large Church of St James dates from the 15th Century and dominates the skyline with its gothic domes. As with most of the old towns there is a maze of lesser roads, alleyways and small piazzas. We backed onto the town promenade and explored the city, coming across a wedding in full swing at St James church and stopping for a beer at a small bar deep within the old town. A superb evening dinner was had at one of the many restaurants that line the foreshore. We found the seafood to be abundant and surprisingly cheap. The serves were very generous so we ended up taking home a “doggy bag” of assorted seafood.

Sibenik

Krka River – We motored up the Krka River from Sibenik to Skradin. The river snakes through a series of spectacular gorges and lakes, becoming progressively fresher. Oyster and mussel farms are common and we stopped to buy 5kg straight from the farm. Two huge bridges span the river.

Krka River

Skradin – this is the town that gives access to the beautiful Krka lakes and waterfalls. The town itself is little more than a village. There are a few harbour side moorings available (if you know the harbour master) or a well equipped but expensive ACI Marina. We tried to get a spot on the wharf but were rejected and sent to the marina. On the way up the Krka River, we had stopped to buy 5kg of fresh black mussels so it was mussels on the boat for dinner. We stayed for two nights and the second night we secured a spot on the town wharf, more than halving the cost and increasing the ambience no end.

Skradin with mussels for dinner

Krka National Park – this large park covers 109km2 around the Krka River. It is most famous for its lakes and waterfalls and attracts a huge number of visitors each year. The main area to visit is the Skradinski buk, a large series of waterfalls surrounded by walk trails through beautiful lush forest and a small hamlet. We accessed it via a boat trip from Skradin, access by yacht being impossible due to a low bridge upstream of Skradin. Swimming is popular but we didn’t bother due to the crowds and concentrated on  enjoying the walk and the magnificent scenery.

Skradinski buk in Krka National Park
Krka National Park

Rogoznica – A quaint little fishing village and tourist town south of Primosten. It lacked the appeal of Primosten but had the usual line of waterfront restaurants and a couple of beaches that were more concrete than sand. We came across a restaurant called Restaurant Mario so we felt we had to give it a go. It was very good fare and a pleasant atmosphere.

Rogoznica

Senjska – A  very pretty small cove on the south side of the island of Solta. The only buoys available are owned by the small family restaurant in the cove and they can be used free on condition one dines at the restaurant. Unfortunately, we occupied the most inshore buoy and the slight groundswell was funneled down to the end of the cove and we found the anchorage to be very rolly.

Senjska with a delicious Peka

Trogir – The last two nights were spent back in Trogir, as rain and strong winds suggested that Milna, our last destination, was full up with most people electing to stay in port. We were happy enough after two weeks at sea to take in a bit more of beautiful Trogir.

What was the pick of it all?  Probably the lovely town of Stari Grad with its gorgeous maze of alleyways. The sail from Vis to the Pakleni Islands was wonderful, with a great breeze and a steady 6.5 knots. We came across a few dolphins but the best site was a school of large tuna feeding on sardines, leaping from the water across a large area of ocean.

Would we recommend the experience? Absolutely. The bucket list was well and truly served. Great company (thanks Helen and Mario), amazing cruising and an unforgettable experience.

Rome-Split-Trogir 2019

September 7, 2019 /

The great adventure begins, a bucket list item to be ticked off. The next four weeks consists of two weeks sailing in beautiful Croatia followed by ten days in a small Italian village as a base for exploring Tuscany. Two other couples are joining us for the sailing and Mario and Helen will go on to Italy with us. Alex and Lucy will return to Germany, where they are currently visiting a new grandchild.

We caught up with Mario and Helen at Perth airport check-in and did the usual parade through security, immigration etc before settling in to wait for boarding our Qatar Airways flight to Doha. The flight left at 10:50pm and landed in Doha at 5:15am. Because the plane was basically chasing the sun, it was 11 hours of night time starting in the middle of the night. It is weird to be served a dinner meal at midnight. It was the usual watch a movie, try to sleep, go to the loo, watch a movie, …. routine but the flight was pretty good overall. The plane was a giant two deck A380 and we were impressed with the standard.

Most of the three hours in Doha consisted of walking along endless corridors of duty free shops and paying an amazing $A8 for a coffee. There was not much to see outside apart from what appeared to be appalling smog. By 8am, the outside temperature was around 30 degrees with 41 forecast.

We boarded the next leg of the journey onto a smaller A330 which promised a tad more legroom but not much more. The standard was much lower with terrible TV screens and cramped foot room. It was another 5 hours to Rome and by the time we exited the airport to find the shuttle bus to the Airport Mecure, we had had enough. We had just missed one shuttle and heavy traffic delayed the next so we had quite a wait before we were on our way to the little town of Fiumicino, bordering the edge of the airport to book into the Mecure Leonardo da Vinci for the night.

After collapsing for an hour or so, we met up again and headed out to explore the little fishing town, sitting on the banks of an arm of the River Tiber. It is more on the industrial side than the tourist but there was a very cute line of restaurants and bars that caught our attention. With all the time shifts and erratic meals, none of us had any idea of what biological time we were in but it certainly felt like beer o’clock so we settled in to an Irish pub and sampled a range of the extensive on-tap offerings. We followed up with some delicious food.   By 8:15 we were all in bed.

The next day was to be easy, with a 1 hour flight to Split in Croatia leaving at the civilized time of 11:25 am. We gave ourselves plenty of time, leaving the hotel at 8:20 to allow for the possible traffic snarls we made excellent time and found the Vueling Air counter to check in. Much to our horror, we had not booked ANY luggage. I say “We” but in reality it was down to Christine but we don’t need to dwell on that point. Being a low cost airline, luggage is not included. To book in luggage at checkin was going to cost us $A60 each. The nice girl at the counter suggested that we go away and purchase luggage check-in online, where it would only cost us $A20 a head. We sat while Christine played with the phone then presented again. “I can’t find any record of your payment,” said the girl. We retired for a second go. Christine’s creds were taking a beating at this stage. On third presentation, our luggage was checked in and it was off to find a boarding gate.

We wandered the corridors, bought some duty free booze, made several wrong turns before finally finding gate E01 and getting on a bus to the plane. The flight was crazy short, up and over the calf of Italy and across the narrow Adriatic Sea to land in Split. Immigration was efficient and the luggage was quickly retrieved. Not so for everyone. A long line of people waiting at a small window was half the passengers on an Easyjet flight whose luggage had gone somewhere other than Split. A great start to their holiday.

Once again, we located the Airport Shuttle Bus rank for the 20km trip into Split. A very comfortable bus arrived and we all bundled in. It rattled along the coast road for about 8km before coming to an almost complete halt in the heaviest traffic I have ever seen in Croatia. We crawled along for nearly another hour, travelling at less than walking pace. The drop off point was a little over a kilometre from our accommodation so we loaded the backpacks and dragged the wheelie bags across the flagstones in front of the ancient Roman place. Everywhere there where people relaxing and drinking, while we were tired, footsore and ready for a break. The apartment proved a little tricky to find, tucked in amongst a cluster of old stone structures at the end of a series of narrow laneways but we finally met Damir and were settled in to our AirBnB apartment.

The apartment was functional, neat and clean. The big appeal was location, location with a bit more location thrown in. It was a short step around the corner to an endless variety of eateries and a little supermarket. Diocletian’s Palace was only a few hundred metres away and the World Famous esplanade in front of the palace was within easy reach. We did to eateries in the one afternoon, with beer and local tapas at one followed beer wine and pizza at another. It was a marvellous end to a crazy day where we spent most of a day working hard for a little over an hour’s flight time. Still, we had arrived in Croatia safely and without major incident.

Split

Our first day in Split was spent in a exploration of Diocletian’s Palace. Built in the 4th Century, the palace of the Roman Emperor Diocletian occupies over half of the old town area. Visible signs of the original palace vary from near complete sections with Roman mosaic floors to walls and buildings rebuilt many times over the centuries, incorporating Roman columns and arches. The effect is stunning, with new vistas at every turn and an abundance of incredibly cute little nooks and hide-aways. Every little plaza is filled with cafes and the alleyways are lined with stone walled shops showing off the colourful crafts of the region. Just walking around inside the palace area is a continual delight.

The crowds are rather heavy though, far heavier than we have experienced before, with several cruise ships being in port. One is simply enormous, dominating the harbour, and looks more like a giant sheep carrier than a cruise ship.

Helen and Mario went walking and returned several hours later thrilled with their excursion to the Park Suma Marjan, a large sprawling nature park with a high lookout over Split. Helen is doing very well with all the walking following some recent health issues but waited at the bottom of the final 330 step climb while Mario pushed on to bring back some wonderful photos of the two main bays that surround the city. They enjoyed a wine or two taking in the views. Meanwhile, we did a spot of shopping, organised some SIM cards for our internet aboard the yacht and found a cool spot to sample more of the excellent local Karlovako beer.

After a very Mediterranean meal of olives, cheeses and salami, Mario and Helen went back out to take in the beauty of the palace at night. The rock walls create gorgeous colours and shadows creating a fairy-tale like effect.  We relaxed.

Day 3 in Croatia had us travelling north to Trogir, from where we would pick up our yacht. The coastal ferry to Trogir was due to run at 1pm so we spent a couple of hours sitting at a cafe on the Split Esplanade drinking a coffee, eating lunch and generally watching the wonderful world pass by. It was such a hardship.

The ferry trip was amazing, providing beautiful views of the harbour, the headland and the villages along the coast of the island of Ciovo and on to the gorgeous little town of Trogir. Trogir dates from the 3rd Century BC and has at various times been Greek, Roman, Croat, Austrian and Venetian. The Venetian influence is most noticeable. The old town is situated on a small island between the mainland and the larger island of Ciovo. Almost the entire island is covered in white stone buildings separated by a maze of twisting winding cobbled alleyways. The only vehicle roads are around the edge of the island, leaving everything else for foot traffic. If the palace at Split is a 10/10, Trogir old town is an 11/10. It is breathtaking and fully deserves its World Heritage status.  

We made our way over the two bridges to the mainland and completed the short walk to our accommodation, to be greeted by Stefan, our host. He showed us around a neat three bedroom apartment on the second floor with all mod cons and plenty of facilities.

We had a three bedroom apartment because Alex and Lucy were due to fly down from Germany to join us for the sailing but sadly, we had received news that Alex’s medical condition was showing some contra indications and they had been advised not to travel to Croatia but to stay in Germany. It was very sad for us but no doubt doubly sad for them. Still, health comes first. From here on, many of our toasts will be to Alex and Lucy.

We had deliberately staved off the temptation to look up the football score as the Eagles played Essendon in an Elimination Final so we could set up in the apartment and watch a replay using Kayo on the Internet. We must have announced our arrival to the rest of the residents with our screaming (especially Mario’s) as the eagles demolished a hapless Bombers.

That night, we ventured back into the old town to be absolutely charmed by the effects of the soft lighting in the narrow stone lined walkways. We settled at a charming restaurant and had wood fired pizza and seafood pasta. All the chairs and tables were carved out of olive wood and each piece was unique.  There were places that looked like a scene straight out of a Harry Potter movie. Afterwards, we wandered down to the castle fortress at the end of the island and admired all the huge expensive boats moored along the harbour. As we approached an ice creamery, a waiter saw our West Coast shirts and cheered us, saying he too had watched the match. Good to see the AFL spreading its wings.

The next day we explored more of the old town. Mario and Helen went back to the fortress and climbed (Helen continues to amaze) to the top for views down onto the town. We spent some time in the local market and when I approached a woman for help finding something she answered in perfect English with a trace of an Aussie accent. Turns out she was from Melbourne originally. Small world.

Our time in Trogir was brief but we will probably pass back through after a week’s sailing. It is one of our favourite places anywhere, its charm and easy life is so seductive. I could live here a while.

Now it’s off sailing!

Montenegro, 2017

July 9, 2017 /

Kotor 28 June – 3 July 2017

Our bus trip from Vela Luka on Korcula, Croatia to Kotor, Montenegro proved to be our worst leg of the whole trip to date. We had tossed up about whether to catch a bus or use ferries to move down the coast but the bus trip looked to be much easier and quicker, involving a trip out of Vela Luka at 5:15am to Kotor, where the bus boarded the car ferry to the mainland (with us still sitting in the bus), then on to Dubrovnik. That part went well and we were in Dubrovnik shortly before 10am with an hour or so to wait for the next bus to Kotor. 11am came and went, with a large crowd standing around at Bay 3 waiting. 11:30 came and went with the same crowd getting more and more bored. A couple of people made enquiries but all got the same answer, “I think the bus is delayed.” Eventually, the bus arrived and two very frazzled looking drivers emerged to check tickets and check in bags. This leg of the journey involved a border crossing, from Croatia into Montenegro. It was relatively simple with one of the drivers collecting all passports, while checking that faces matched, and taking them to be processed while we all stayed on the bus. They were returned stamped and we were ready to go. The problem was that it took an hour in a slow queue to actually reach the point where the office was and then we had to repeat the process again two hundred metres down the road to enter Montenegro. By this time, we were two hours behind our scheduled arrival time. Add to that another 30 minutes waiting for a traffic accident to clear and we rolled into Kotor very much later than planned.

The traffic accident had caused a traffic jam so bad that cars were at a crawl for kilometres, right past the bus station. We faced a 2km walk to our apartment and had planned to taxi it but we could see that they were going nowhere so we saddled up the packs and walked along the beach, finding the chance to stretch the legs after the hours in the bus quite handy and the walk proved easy. Having left Croatia, our mobile phones would not work and we had no way of contacting our host so we just walked to where we thought the place was and relied on our memories of what it looked like from the images on the Internet. Sure enough, we recognized the lane that led to the three level set of apartments and Alexsandra was waving to us from the top to welcome us in. We have a small but comfortable apartment close to the water and within easy walking of a large shopping centre and the old fortress town. We were soon settled in.

Montenegro is a small country, once part of the now dissolved Yugoslavia. Over the centuries it has been variously controlled by Greeks, Romans, Byzantines , Turks and Venetians. In more recent times, it was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Although not part of the EU it uses the Euro as its currency (much to the chagrin of the EU bankers) but prices here are much lower than in the EU itself. Its most famous tourist feature is the beautiful Bay of Kotor, a large fjiord carved out of the Dinaric Alps that towers over all sides of the bay. The area is one of the wettest parts of Europe and where there is enough flat land there are pockets of lush, dense forest. The place has a very different look and feel to the Croatian coastline that we have moved through over the last three weeks.

We have Kotor Beach right in front of our apartment and it is well patronized. The beach is a mixture of pebble beach and concrete walls but it lacks the inspiration and crystal clarity of the Croatian beaches. The main problem is the presence of algae, lots of the green type. It must have something to do with the fact that Kotor is at the end of a 28km deep inlet and the water does not cycle as much as the places exposed to the open sea. It looks a bit like swimming at Mandurah. Lots of people do it but it does not look inviting. Despite some very hot weather, we didn’t actually go for a swim during our time in Kotor.

Our apartment and Kotor Town

The old town is another medieval walled town, not as imposing as Trogir or Dubrovnik but impressive none the less. The most amazing feature is a 5km fortified wall that rises almost vertically up the mountain behind the city across terrain that it so steep and rocky that the thought of anybody attacking it is crazy. It ends in a fortress high above the town. Groups of people can be seen straggling up the twisting walls and paths to reach the fortress but this time we decided that we would leave it be. So far, we have climbed most challenges but the days are getting hotter and this climb just looks awful. Inside the walls is a network of very narrow lanes and alleyways that can defeat even the locals. There are a number of small churches, mostly Serbian-Orthodox with amazing murals and gold leaf icons adorning the walls. For some reason that is beyond us, the churches don’t have pews, just an altar and a big open space. We don’t pretend to be experts when it comes to churches.

Kotor is a favorite with the cruise ships because the water is very deep right up to the very front of the old town. The day we arrived we actually walked right under the overhanging bow of a monstrous ship that was berthed nose in to the town. It is an amazing sight but makes movement around the small town a tad chaotic when an extra 2000 passengers descend on the place. The cruise ships come in all shapes and sizes, from the 8 storey monsters to the beautiful sleek wooden three masted ships that look like they never actually use the sails. The large ones are full of carers and wheel chair ramps while the smaller ones have railings covered in beach towels and decks filled with bikini clad girls. Some of the smaller boats have a deck load of bicycles as well, although the thought of cycling around terrain like Montenegro or Croatia does nothing for me. Whatever, there seems to be a cruise designed for everyone and there are lots of people being employed along the way.

Kotor Town

We took a taxi-boat ride around the Bay or Kotor, taking in a few of the sights. It was a centre consul speedboat about 6 metres long and got places in a hurry. The water was calm in most places except for one narrow neck where the tide was against the wind but later we headed outside the bay to the open Adriatic coast to visit the Blue Cave. The swell had been very big a few days before and the skipper was uncertain whether we could manage this part of the tour. The swell proved moderate and not too uncomfortable until we got close to the cliffs, where the waves bounced back and created some very disturbed water. We approached a low hole in the cliffs which looked too low slung to allow us entry but after waiting for the right lull in the waves the skipper gunned us forward and suddenly we were inside the cave, a small cave by any standards with a second but even smaller entrance towards the rear. Our boat could manage small tight circles inside the cave to show off the main attraction. The water is crystal clear and the sea floor near the entrance is pure white sand so the sunlight coming through reflects from the sand in the most amazing shade of blue, as though it has been created by a bank of artificial lights. It is very beautiful and worth the heart stopping moment of entry. Getting out was equally exciting and we had to congratulate the skills of the skipper.

Back inside Kotor Bay we visited a couple of submarine tunnels dug into the cliffs by the Germans during WWII to house U-Boats. Our boat entered two of the tunnels, which were used after the war by the Soviets up until Yugoslavia broke up. Now they are just used as tourist attractions.

Watch a short video of the Blue Cave and Submarine Tunnels

We stopped for about half an hour on a small island that housed a church and small shop. The Island is called Our Lady of the Sea and legend has it that it was created over many years by fishermen throwing rocks into the sea or sinking old ships filled with rocks on the spot. It would take a lot of time, effort and rocks but having seen lots of evidence to show that humans are capable of any kind of crazy thing, especially in the name of religion, the story is plausible.

We really enjoyed the tour, having the chance to see many other towns and villages that are scattered around the vast Bay of Kotor. The Blue Cave experience on its own would have made the trip worthwhile.

The Bay of Kotor

Kotor was a good stay, with a beautiful town area and wonderful scenery fully deserving of its World Heritage status. For us, the biggest disappointment was the poor water quality and the presence of so much algae, putting us off swimming even though there were good crowds at all the popular spots. The town is definitely worth a visit but really does not rate well as a beach destination.

Bar  3-8 July

The bus trip to Bar was worth the drive alone. After deviating to go into Trivat and the International Airport, it hit the coast and drove along the coast through Buvda, Sveti Stefano and Sutomore. The views were absolutely magnificent. Small beach resorts filled every little cove and bay while the bigger cities like Buvda were like a beach club on steroids. The beaches had whole cities of lounges and umbrellas and the waters were teeming with swimmers. Jetskis whizzed around and the sea was criss-crossed with the wakes of small boats. The beautiful Sveti Stefano is a tiny little town perched on a little island only about two hundred metres offshore and joined to the mainland with a spit of white sand. It looks picture perfect. The money seems to be centered around Buvda with some very fancy resorts on the southern side of the city. It was a drive full of interest.

The coastline with Budva and the lovely little town of Sveti Stefan.

We faced a 1.5km walk from the bus station to our apartment through a light industrial area. We reached the general area but had to find our actual apartment because there were a great many apartment blocks that all looked the same. All except one that stood out because it was a sick shade of green, which made it better than the pale grey and concrete cancer look of all the others. It looked like an area that specializes in drive-by shootings and drug deals. Our phones had suddenly decided to be out of credit (we bought a tourist SIM and really can’t understand how it works) so we couldn’t ring our host but we still had data and thankfully he responded to our email. The green building proved to be ours and the inside a huge improvement on the outside. The apartment was spacious, modern and clean, with a view over the harbor area and on towards the beach area.

Bar is totally different to any of the town we have been in so far in Europe. The streets are wide and open. The front walk along the beach area is really expansive and not every open space is filled with restaurant tables. The shopping area of the town is open enough to be able to see what type of shops there are over a hundred metres away, instead of visibility being limited to the next 20 metres of old town. It made us realise just how much we are over “old towns”. Medieval towns are very cute but one can fill up on them. The downside to Bar is that is looks like a city with tooth decay.  It presents a great smile but needs more than just a scale and polish. My guess is that most of the buildings date from the communist era and that standards were not really well adhered to. So many buildings now look as though they suffering from a structural rot. It may be that they are fine inside, like ours, but they sure look sick from the outside.

Bar, with the view from our apartment.

We planned to head inland on a day trip to take in the famous Skadar Lake and Podgorica, the capital city of Montenegro. There were a few interesting looking tours offering lunch for the lake but the times and days did not seem to match with us so we decided to take public transport. So it was back to the bus station to check out schedules and look into the trains, which ran from station nearby. The trains proved irregular and gave us a long wait so we opted for the bus, which gave us a medium wait. We watched the big comfy buses come and go, heading off to other parts of the Balkans, until finally our bus arrived, a stumpy little thing that did not look nearly big enough for the massed crowd. Indeed, we had to squeeze into the back seat and gasp for air for the ten minutes or so until the driver decided we needed an air-conditioner. Despite being full, the bus still stopped along the way and people just got on and somehow levered a seat out of nothing. I had a young girl squeeze in between me and the guy next to me (who was manspreading to the max). She was shorter than me which meant that her bare shoulder fitted neatly into my very sweaty armpit. The jolting of the bus gave it a good workout.

Christine kept an eye on Google Maps so we could identify our stop at Virpazar for the lake tour. Unfortunately, the swaying and bumping put us both to sleep and we were caught a bit by surprise when the bus stopped and the driver yelled “V%@#*&” and took off again. It took all of a minute to realise that we should have got off. Damn! Even though we had only paid for a ticket to Virpazar, we stayed on the bus to Podgorica, figuring we could pay extra on arrival. As the bus pushed north, we looked out at the scenes of the lake going by and asked ourselves, “Why did we want to get off anyway?” What is described in the guidebooks as one of the great wilderness areas of Europe and a nature lovers dream looked like a large swamp bordering an even larger stretch of boring water. The teeming masses of birdlife were represented by a single small duck and the extreme biodiversity of the amazing pristine region probably couldn’t be fully appreciated in a single visit anyway. Even the charming little traditional lake boats that take you on a tour looked just like aluminum dinghies with outboards. It was interesting enough but not the sensational destination we had been expecting. We scratched Lake Skadar from our travel plans and decided Podgorica would get more attention.

Lake Skadar in the middle

If we thought Bar was a bit tatty, Podgorica was full on grotty. The bus and train station was a 1.5km walk from the main CBD through some areas that looked like something out of an post-apocalypse movie. The pavements were broken and crumbled or would just come to an end for no apparent reason. Most building were unpainted grey concrete, streaked with rust marks from the obvious rot within. Like Bar, the city was open and the streets wide and straight but it looked very unkempt. The older buildings were all flattened during WWII so almost everything dated from the immediate post war era where style meant nothing. While reasonably affluent during the times of Yugoslavia, Montenegro suffered badly during the Balkan War and the sanctions imposed by the West and so maintenance has simply not occurred. Things were starting to get on track again when the GFC of 2012 hit and sent the country down again. While tourism is bringing in big investments, especially from Russian sources, the money appears to be being spend on the beaches to the north rather than here.

Podgorica

Things improved a bit in the very central part of the city and we found a couple of nice areas and a pretty strip of cafes, where we had a ridiculously cheap lunch, having sandwiches, fries and a couple of beers for 5€ each in a charming al fresco setting. After lunch we wandered down to the Zeta River, through pretty parkland and found a clear water fast flowing stream with a good volume of water. Finally, we headed back to the station to await the train. After the horrible bus ride we decided the train was a better bet. We had spied a train during the bus ride, a sleek modern affair that looked very comfortable. Alas, not all trains are equal and ours was an incredibly grubby and noisy thing without any air-conditioning. The windows were so dirty that you could barely see out of them and photography was only possible though an open window. We slept much of the way, waking every time the train stopped at one of ten tiny sidings, mostly broken down and overgrown with weeds. Hopefully, Montenegro will be brought into the fold of the EU before long and infrastructure will get a much needed financial boost. They need it. By the time we got back to the apartment we had walked just on 8km and were very tired. We decided to forgo our evening walk along the foreshore.

Another big disappointment in Bar was the beach. Bar has a series of beaches stretching north towards Budva from the harbor. They seem to get more and more stony as they go, with the far ones being made up of rocks the size of tennis balls. People still seem to go to them. Closer to the start of the stretch, the stones are more like pebbles and there is sand once you get to the water itself so we opted to go there for a swim. However, the rubbish problem was extreme, with a lot of plastic being washed up or just floating around in the water. Three were also a worrying number of dead fish and squid, indicating that all is not well. It was hot so we went in but refused to put our heads under water. With both Kotor and Bar being ruled out as beach destinations, perhaps Budva would be the place to go for a beach vacation.

We came to Montenegro on a promise of glorious scenery and inexpensive living. The second proved true, especially away from Kotor. The scenery is certainly impressive but no more so than further north in Croatia and the dirt and poor infrastructure detracts from the place considerably. With tourism already playing a big part in Montenegro’s economy, there needs to be some serious attention paid to how things are presented, especially now that the rest of Europe is becoming so environmentally conscious.

We took a ferry out of Bar back across the Adriatic to Bari in Italy, a trip of about 8 hours.

PHOTO GALLERIES:

Kotor

Budva

Bar

 

Korcula, Croatia, 2017

June 30, 2017 /

Vela Luka, Korcula    21-28 June 2017

The trip from Supertar, on Brac, to Vela Luka on the island of Korcula involved two ferries. First, we had to catch the car ferry back to Split then get another car ferry to Vela Luka. The timetable gave us a fifteen minute window to change ferries and the woman at the ticket office was confident that we would make it. The ferry ended up leaving Supertar five minutes late because they waited for a truck, which could be seen in the distance driving like a maniac towards the ferry. Next a car and caravan came screaming around the corner and it too was allowed to board. Still, we docked in Split on time and headed off at a fast hike with heavy backpacks on to consult the departures board for our next ferry. Unfortunately, we found that it was on the far side of the one we had just arrived in so we had to retrace our steps and make our way to the very last wharf in the whole complex. We arrived with about 4 minutes to spare, congratulating each other on our fitness levels but still disappointed to find there were stairs rather than an escalator to climb to the upper passenger decks. In the end, the ferry left 10 minutes late. We have caught enough Adriatic ferries by now that we no longer stand on the rails and take in all the sights of the passing islands and other seafaring craft. We sit inside in the air-conditioning and read. It’s a bit sad really.

The trip to Korcula took three hours, passing Hvar along the way. The trip was very smooth and few of the many yachts that we passed even bothered putting up sails. I was surprised by the size of Hvar Town. It seemed to sprawl along the coast for kilometers and there was even a bit of high rise building in evidence. I have been reading that Hvar has been getting quite a bit of negative publicity lately, mainly due to poor behavior by holidaying British youth, a bit like the Aussies in Bali it seems.

Vela Luka is situated at the end of a long narrow inlet and so is mostly calm and well suited as a small boat harbor. It looked very pretty as the ferry nosed into the wharf area. Once off the boat, it was a little chaotic for a while because for some strange reason, the ferry company chooses to have two ferries in at the same time, both around the same time as the fishing fleet is in and unloading. The car park was crammed with cars and trucks waiting to board for the trip back to Split and we worked our way through them to find Regina, our host. Somehow, in the jumble of cars, we found each other and she bundled us into her car for the ride around the harbor to our apartment. We were grateful that she had come to pick us up, especially as it meant time off work for her, because the walk around would be quite a trek. There is an option of a water taxi but at the time we did not know where to catch it and I doubt whether Christine would have been prepared to make the leap from the dock onto the bow of a small boat with her backpack on.

The apartment proved wonderful with an incredible balcony across the front giving a beautiful view of the harbor and town. Over the next week we were to spend many hours sitting out front reading and taking in the view. We watched the evening berthings of the charter cruising yachts and the regular put-put of the little water taxis plying their trade. We walked the long way around the harbor a few times but mostly we used the water taxis.

Vela Luka is the largest town on the island of Korcula, with a population of just over 4000. However, you would not know it to look at. There are few shops and even tourist accommodation is more of a B&B nature than hotel based. It is situated at the northern end of the island, with the much older Korcula Town at the southern end. Evidence of human habitation goes back an incredible 20,000 years and the Greeks, Romans and Venetians all had settlements and naval harbors here. However, the town itself bears little of the medieval influences so obvious in Zadar and Trogir. The buildings, although mostly built from local limestone, are mostly utilitarian and plain and date from the first half of the Twentieth Century. What gives it charm is the gorgeous harbor, safe in all weather, which is somewhat of a rarity around the islands of the Adriatic. Indeed, the name Vela Luka derives from “Safe Harbour”.

We continued our largely slovenly lifestyle adopted in Supertar. It must be something to do with living on islands. Our daily routine would often consist of rising late, lounging around until mid morning, crossing the harbor in the water taxi to buy the day’s supplies, sitting at a café for an hour, coming home for lunch, followed by an afternoon read and nap. Then we would pop down the road for a swim in the late afternoon. Day done! It was a real struggle to maintain the lifestyle.

Around Vela Luka

The Croatians love their National Holidays. Back in Supertar we found the town closed down for Corpus Christi. Here we had a quiet day for the Day of the Antifascist Struggle, followed three days later by Statehood Day. Celebrations are big too. On a Saturday evening, a rowing race was held on the harbor below us, a traditional event harking back to 1933 when a crew from a British warship took on a local crew. The locals won and they continue to celebrate every June 24th. A boat carrying a full brass band opened and closed the event by doing a lap of the harbor with the band pumping out a vigorous march. Shore based Croatian pop music filled the middle part and they made sure that everyone in Vela Luka could share in the experience. As the rowed boats came across the line, the winners would break out the smoke flares to celebrate. It was quite entertaining watched from the comfort of our balcony.

We were not lazy all the time. We took a day trip out to nearby Proizd Island on a fish picnic, which is a great Croatian concept that would really take on if offered in Australia. Basically it is a boat excursion to somewhere with a fish meal cooked on board to accompany copious amounts of local wine. We booked the trip at a little tourist outlet a few days before and the young guy who sold us the ticket did his very best to point out the boat that would take us and where to wait. He kept talking about the green table and pointing across the harbor. Eventually we worked out that he had mixed up the words for “table” and “boat” and identified the boat with a green covering. It was a rather flash looking modern boat, suitable for a small group. On the appointed morning, we waited on the dock at the boat at 10am, getting a little anxious because there was no one there. Right on 10am, a guy arrived on a scooter, accompanied by a little white dog. We greeted him and got a very perfunctory grunt in return and he boarded and readied the boat. Then he took off on the scooter again, leaving the dog on board and us on the dock. We saw him visit the bakery for supplies and eventually he returned. This time he looked at us and asked, “Can I help you?” We showed him the ticket for the fish picnic but he said “No, no..” and took us over to where we had seen another much bigger and older boat some time earlier. It turns out this poor guy was just getting his boat ready for a family day out and we were trying to commandeer his day off. The fish picnic boat had departed so a series of queries, instructions, and phone calls was put in place. He left us in other hands and went back to his boat, with our thanks, while arrangements were made for us to chase the fish picnic boat in a little water taxi. We caught up after 10 minutes or so, helped by the fish picnic boat turning around and we climbed aboard to the stares of the very full boat load of fellow passengers.

There were only a couple of spots left down the back of the boat and we settled in. The tables were set with carafes of cold white wine and some of the passengers were already imbibing with gusto. The couple next to us could speak passable English and from them we learned that everyone else on the boat was part of a group of retirees from Slovenia, making us very much the hangers on that the boat had gone back for. Whoops. The host lady came up to us with a couple of shot glasses filled with a local firewater to explain the day and apologize for leaving us behind, which was our fault as much as anyone’s.

A fish picnic to Proizd

A small brunch snack was served as the boat putted out over wonderfully calm seas. We received a delicious tuna pate, some lovely salted anchovy fillets dribbled with olive oil and a very tasty tomato-rice concoction. Of course, the local white wine helped it go down. Then the singing started up with a guy with a guitar and an excellent voice leading a medley of Croatian and Slovenian favourites. The boat did a lap of Proizd, passing all the best beaches on the north-eastern side before pulling up at a jetty in a bay on the western side. Here there is a rather run-down looking restaurant, which is the only real sign of habitation anywhere, and we were given three hours or so to explore the little island and swim before a lunch at 3pm. By this time, many of the Slovenians definitely needed a time out from the white wine. A series of small tracks lead through the pines that make up the vegetation on Proizd to a series of coves. We visited four locations, finding two to be excellent for swimming and lazing around and two to be pretty but lacking any real beach. A lack of a beach does not seem to worry the Croatians who appear quite happy to clamber over rocks to get to water but we prefer the more dignified entry of a beach, even if it is made of stones and not sand.

After three hours of swimming and walking the length of the island we were well and truly ready for lunch. On our return to the boat we found the outdoor oven going at the stern and small blue mackerel cooking over hot coals. These were later served up with a delicious potato and vinegar salad followed by some wonderful local pastry and cut watermelon. Of course, all this was accompanied by an unending supply of local white wine and lots of singing. Some of the Slovenians had decided that all wine existed to be consumed and the volume of the singing increased accordingly.

We had a really great day that actually took us another day or so to get over. Although we hadn’t drunk anything like some of the other passengers the food, sun and exertions of the day took its toll on these poor bodies and we crashed as soon as we got home.

Click here for a video of our trip to Proizd, complete with on-board singing.

 

 

A few days after the fish picnic we took a bus to the southern end of Korcula to old Korcula Town, about 45kms away. The drive was spectacular, as most drives are in these parts, giving incredible views over to the neighboring islands and mainland as we traversed the central mountain chain. I don’t know whether I am becoming used to the mountain roads or simply resigned to the concept of death by bus accident. The drivers are certainly very skillful and I tell myself that that can do the drive with their eyes shut, which they effectively do because they are usually on the phone or texting. We passed through several smaller towns along the way, the biggest of which was Blato, which features a beautiful 300metre long central avenue of hundred year old linden trees.

Our arrival in Korcula Town gave us three and a bit hours to explore, which is ample time to take in the atmosphere. I have lost count of the number of fortress towns we have visited now and each one is unique. A beautiful walk around the walled section of the town gives some terrific views over the narrow straits to the mainland and shows why Korcula was such a strategic stronghold. The town is more remarkable for its interior, which is a maze of tiny alleyways far too small for any vehicles (always a good thing). The second notable feature is steps, lots of them at every turn and none of them constructed to match the length of a human stride. Walking turns into some crazy kind of hopping, dancing motion as you attempt to adjust your stride. It gets quite wearing. The town was crowded with tourists and prices tended to reflect the popularity of the place.  Prices go up as more cruise ships visit a place. We left the main walled fortress part of the city and crossed the road and down an alley to find prices back to Croatian normal and enjoyed a really excellent pizza with a couple of beers for less than $A20.

Old Korcula Town

Another more energetic excursion was a climb up a hill called Pinski Rat behind Vela Luka to a large open cave called Vela Spila. The cave is situated at an elevation of 120m and the path is around 800m long so the grade is steep in many places. The first part takes you through some back lanes or the town up many flights of steps then the path angles up through olive groves and pine scrub to the cave itself. We chose to go in the morning to avoid the heat but we failed. We were incredibly hot and bothered by the time we reached the top and the cool of the cave was a very welcome relief. The cave carries evidence of human habitation dating back 20,000 years. An ongoing archaeological dig has uncovered layers going down for over 7 metres with a number skeletons from Neolithic times and a great many artefacts from stone, Bronze Age and Greek times.  As always in such places, there is a sense of awe to think that humans have shared the same space for so long through so much change.

Vela Spila

Vela Luka is probably the least spectacular place of our recent stays yet a very easy and comfortable place to stay in. We chose the best side of the bay to stay because the beach below the apartment was so good and accessible and the views across to the town itself so good. The daily crossings on the little water taxi became part of the ritual of life and was in itself relaxing. Finally, there is no finer sport than watching other people try to bring boats alongside or pick up mooring lines. Every evening we would play the game of armchair skipper and give lots of advice, all from a distance of course, and sip on our wine safe in the comfort of our balcony.

Vela Luka marks the end of our Croatian journey and we move on south to the little country of Montenegro.

PHOTO GALLERIES:

Vela Luka

Korcula Old Town

Supertar, Brac, Croatia 2017

June 22, 2017 /

Supertar, Brac 14-21 June 2017

Our trip from Trogir to the island of Brac involved two ferry trips, the little Baru Line boat from Trogir to Split then a big car ferry over to Supertar, on the island of Brac. Each trip took about 50 minutes and we only had about 30 minutes between them and a short walk of around half a kilometer of so. We docked in Supertar on time and we set off on foot to find our apartment. Fortunately, Antonija, our host, had given us excellent photo instructions and we managed to find our place with little trouble. Supertar is not a big place anyway, more of a small town really with a population of around 3000.

The apartment proved very comfortable and certainly well located, a mere 150m to the water and much the same to a well stocked supermarket. Antonija and her mother live above us. The house is set on a small block with an area of garden, as do most of the houses surrounding us. Some grow vegetables and fruit trees and ours has quite a number of plum trees, mostly purple but one that is a golden colour. Antonija’s mother brought us a bowl of the golden ones and they proved to be very sweet and quite delicious. Another point of interest was the presence of several small tortoises in the yard, cute little things called Hermann’s Tortoise and native to the area. They don’t really do much more than crawl around the yard but its good to know they are there.

All the walking with the backpacks on must have taken its toll because we didn’t do much more after arrival than lie around and read and drop off for a bit of a nap. Our second day on Brac was not much more energetic because it rained most of the day. This was the first rain we had experienced in Croatia and the country looked like it could do with it. It wasn’t heavy, but it was steady and we eventually headed out to explore the town and do some shopping, just accepting that we would get a little wet. When it is cool and wet you would swear that there was no one here but when the bad weather clears and the sun comes out, so do the people. The umbrellas go up, the al fresco tables are set and the gelato sellers get into full swing.

To be honest, we were pretty lazy during our week in Supertar, falling into a habit of doing very little in the afternoons. The local television seems to consist of 10 stations, of which three or four are in English at any one time. This is a big change from NO ENGLISH, which is what we have had for weeks at a time. The down side is that a lot of the English shows are very old and I have to admit to watching an episode of Gunsmoke and a few old NCIS re-runs. We also thoroughly enjoyed the old 70s movie “Papermoon” for which the brilliant 9 year old Tatum O’Neal won an Oscar. We have made up for the laziness by going for a walk every evening after dinner. The sun does not set until around 9pm and the time between 8 and 9 is simply charming, the setting sun casting a gorgeous orange glow on the white limestone buildings of the harbour front. It is a popular time for a stroll with families, couples and hopefuls all doing the walk along the waterfront taking in the atmosphere.

Around Supertar

There are some reasonable swimming beaches locally and not too far from the house at that. The beaches here are stony rather than sand based but the one near us at least has some lovely clean white sand underfoot once you are in the water. The water temperature has come up and is not bad once in and wet. With the beach being a little hard to lie on, there is always a paddock full of sun lounges out for hire and there are plenty of sun loving Europeans ready to ignore the sun safe message and tan themselves to a point where they resemble a cooked chook.

One day we hopped on a bus and visited Bol, which claims the best beach in the Adriatic in the form of a spot called Zlatni Rat. As the crow flies, it is only about 10km across the island from Supertar to Bol but the bus route is 33kms because it makes quite a few side trips to other villages and has to negotiate the difficult trip up and over the central mountain spine. At $A10 each for the return journey, the fare is quite expensive by local bus standards but the trip is really worth it for the drive alone. The views across the highlands and out to the mainland or the neighbouring island of Hvar are nothing short of spectacular and the hairpin bends and switchback narrow roads are adrenaline raising, especially when bus meets bus on a bend. All the little towns and villages were picture perfect. Bol itself is lovely with a cute little harbor and a waterfront line of gorgeous stone buildings. The bus stops right in the heart of the town and Zlatni Rat is about 1.5kms along the coast, necessitating a walk or an expensive taxi. The walk is easy and interesting with market stalls being spread out for around half of the distance. There are also a lot of small coves suitable for swimming along the way.

A bus trip to Bol

Zlatni Rat is the main objective. It is a spit that extends almost perpendicular to the coast with a broad white beach of fine pebbles around its length. Beautiful open pine forest borders the beach, providing a welcome relief from the sun and heat if needed and the water is crystal clear with a gorgeous aquamarine colour. The great thing about the long spit is that it is easy to find a calm place out of the wind. The Western side, where we went, is a little deeper and I found myself out of my depth after only 15 metres of so. We also found that the Western side is a clothing optional area, even though the sign says “No Nudists” and points to a path leading further away as being a nudist beach. I have no issue with the clothing optional places but the slip slop slap seems to have gone out the window. There were some very brown people and brown all over at that. We swam for a while (with bathers on) before walking back to the town.

Back in Bol we had what would have to be the best hamburger in Croatia, or maybe Europe. A little sandwich place near the bus stop advertised a hamburger for 25HRK ($A5) which looked appealing. The girl at the counter called us in to select our toppings from a big selection and everything was crammed into an enormous fresh bun atop a good mince patty. With pickles, corn kernels, crisp salads and a great ketchup it really hit the spot. I just shows you what can happen when a country doesn’t have Maccas.

There is a small village about 3kms to the west of Supertar called Mirca and we took a walk, following the main road and some small trails. It is a pretty little spot set on a small cove. It seems that any small cove or rare piece of flat land has developed into a settlement on Brac, where arable or livable land is rare. Most arable land is used for olive growing with the small stunted trees being grown in soil that is extremely rocky. Over the centuries, the rocks have been cleared to some extent and piled into mounds or incorporated in the endless network of dry-stone walls. Where a valley forms that will hold some actual soil, market gardens flourish, with tomatoes, grapes, zucchinis and cabbages being commonly grown.

For most of our time in Croatia, the wind has been absent and the seas glassy calm. However, we did have a couple of days of a nasty northerly wind that locally is called a Bora. The warnings went out for winds of around 40km/hr with gusts to 90km/hr. The large number of mountainous islands in this part of the world can produce some rather extreme variations in the winds. While the worst of the forecast Bora wind never actually materialized, we saw enough to know that a Bora prediction needs to be taken seriously. Just as with the rain, the crowds disappeared again, presumably holed up inside. The boats tied up in the various little harbours dotted around Supertar were all jumping around on their lines and the few boats we saw that had ventured out were making heavy going of it. One evening when it was blowing hard we saw a flotilla of five yachts tied up inside the breakwater. They were bouncing around in their berths quite a bit but better than being outside. What attracted us was that they were flying pennants advertising “Sail Croatia” and sported flags of various nations. Three flew Australian flags so we wandered over. Sail Croatia is a charter company that offers cruises for under 35s and there were young people in abundance. Part of their web site promotion promises “every night a party” and the party had started early. Despite the bouncy conditions, everyone seemed to be having a great time and the drinks flowed freely. We figured they didn’t want to talk to old farts and went away again. The next morning, we watched the fleet put to sea in heavy conditions and wondered at just how the crews were holding up.

Beautiful beaches and our apartment

The week in Supertar has probably been the least energetic of our stays so far but the place does lull you into a relaxed mood. The town appears capable of catering for at least five times the current crowd and I gather that things will get like that in July and August. It must be quite frenetic, especially over at Bol, which is already very busy. However, if getting away from the rat race of commuting to work and living in busy crowded cities is your need then a week or so on Brac Island would be a most welcome escape.

From here we move on through the islands to Korcula. More ferries, more beaches. It’s a hard life.

See full gallery of photos

Trogir, Croatia, June 2017

June 15, 2017 /

Trogir  9-14 June

We caught a bus from Zadar to Trogir, an interesting experience. We booked an “Autotransport Sibenik” bus, one of several available but with the most convenient time. Fortunately, we were early so we were fairly early getting our bags stowed and finding a seat. We had to pay an extra 14HRK ($A2.80) extra for the bags, not something we have ever experienced before but logical enough because it means that travel for people without bags is cheaper. We took our seats and settled down as per normal. Then the bus started to fill, and fill, until the aisles were full. One guy pointed out that we had his booked seat. We showed him our ticket that said seats were not allocated. We had booked ours two days earlier than him so we stayed put. The bus driver came down the aisle, not an easy thing because he was built like the Hulk, and checked tickets. All those hoping to buy a ticket on board were kicked out of seats, satisfying our seat claimant and then he proceeded to sell tickets to the others. Of course, by this time there was only standing room left and the trip was a couple of hours. I don’t think they got a discount.

The trip was a good drive. On the left were the mountains and inland lakes and on the right the ocean and numerous offshore islands. Each view came and went, punctuated with the entry into a gorgeous little town or village to drop off or pick up passengers. The crowd on the bus eased as the towns went by but suddenly, at Sibenik, another dozen people got on. I am not sure why social media outrage has not sunk this bus company. Our accommodation host, Ivan, was not at all surprised. He said it is just the way things happen in Croatia.

We eventually arrived in Trogir, quite a deal later than the advertised time and were met by our host. Ivan is a charming young man who owns the apartment we have rented. He is a forestry engineer living in split who has obviously branched off into real estate rental. He showed us the way to our apartment, a mere 800m from the city centre, and settled us in. Our apartment is a one bedroom affair on the third and top floor of small block. It appears to be in a housing estate with every block the same and separated by a bit of unkept garden and parking spaces. The place looked pretty run down and very much a left-over from the communist era. Fortunately, our apartment was newly renovated and in spotless condition, with everything we needed. The big exception was a toaster, not surprising because people in Italy and Croatia don’t seem to make toast. They are available in stores but we never find a rental apartment that has one.

Trogir is like a smaller version of Zadar in many ways. The old fortress town occupies an island rather than a peninsular but there is access from two sides, with the larger island of Ciovo. A small stone bridge connects Trogir to the mainland and a small steel one to Ciovo. This route is the only land route to Ciovo, which appears to have a significant population. The little road is chocked full to a standstill during peak hours. Another bridge is under construction that will avoid the old town. It was due to open this June but the builder went broke and things have very much stopped. All the pylons appear to be in place but that is all.

Just like Zadar, the city inside the ancient walls is almost fairytale like. There are so many gorgeous alleyways, porticoes, piazzas and churches that one barely knows where to look. The city is said to be the best example of  a Romanesque-Gothic town in Central Europe and has earned a UNESCO protected status. The original design of the city is still visible and is down to the early Greek founders and the Roman influence remains strong. Unfortunately, the crowds can get a bit too heavy at times and the tiny narrow streets fill with walking tours. Another negative is the habit of filling every open space with tables and umbrellas for the restaurants. I have no objection to al fresco dining or people making a living out of tourism but when a piazza can’t be properly appreciated because the view is completely obscured by a sea of umbrellas things need to be re-evaluated.

On the northern end of the town there is a fortress built by the Venetians in the 1400s sometime. It gives excellent views of the city and is a wonderful place to spend some time just looking down at all the comings and goings of the local boats.

The old Venetian Fortress at top left.

Thankfully, food and drink prices have a little lower than Zadar, around 20% on average, and there appears to be many more low cost lunch and fast food options, although no actual Maccas is in sight. The fast food consists of interesting Croatian pastries with meat fillings and some really good stuffed pita bread type of things. There is a large fresh market right next to the bridge from the mainland that sells all manner of fruit and veg, nuts, dried fruits, honey and olive oil. It is an all bustle and hum type of place although, like all markets, care needs to be taken to avoid being had or buying stuff you don’t really want. Across the road is a fresh fish market where people bring their catches in the mornings. There are prawns, lobster, sea bream, sea bass and mullet on offer, all very fresh and quite a reasonable price. We bought a couple of good sized bream for $A10 so it is certainly on a par with Australia.

Trogir is so full of great atmosphere

Trogir certainly shows off its maritime links. There are boats everywhere with moorings along every bit of shoreline, small harbours in every cove and large marinas in the bigger bays. Most houses along the beach have a boat of some kind resting in the yard. Ferries and sight seeing boats make runs out to some of the nearby islands.  One of the highlights of the old town is the 15th Century Venetian fortress at the northern end of the island. Although not overly big, it is in reasonable condition and can be climbed for some outstanding vistas across the town and harbor. Getting to the top involves steep sets of steps, narrow stone stairways and a couple of steel ladders, none of which is Christine’s preferred method of travel but the result was worth the effort.

One day we decided to take a bus into Split, Croatia’s second largest city and situated about an hour’s ride to the south. We had stayed in Split in 2012 and fallen in love with it, especially the incredibly beautiful Diocletian’s Palace. Diocletian was a Roman Emperor between 284 and 305AD. He was born in Split of low parentage but grew through the ranks of the army to eventually become Emperor. The remains of his huge palace form the supporting structure for much of the central part of Split. The bus dropped us off about 800m short of the palace and we had to walk to the palace gates. Once inside, we were reminded of just how amazing the place is. It is quite surreal experience to walk the pathways and steps in the footsteps of those from nearly 2000 years ago. The place was jam packed with tourists. Two cruise ships were in port making things very difficult. However, the palace is big, bigger than the whole of Trogir, and so we eventually escaped the worst of the crowds.

A day in Split

Split is a major hub for the ferry services, both international and those that service the islands. Part of our purpose in coming to Split was to sort out our future movements through the islands to the south and we managed to buy the tickets we wanted and work out just where we needed to be. Advance planning when carrying heavy backpacks is always a good idea. Along the wharf and departure areas we found the crowds to be much greater than they were back in 2012, probably because the GFC had hit Europe in a big way and tourism was down. Things are recovering!

We caught a ferry home along the coast from Split, stopping at Slatine, a small village on the south end of Ciovo. The ferry trip took about the same time as the bus but was far more enjoyable and only a little more expensive. We got off the boat at Trogir and settled in to a little restaurant for a late lunch. Much to our delight, they had grilled sardines on the menu. Whole, crispy fried sardines were a highlight of our trip in 2012. They were cheap and really tasty, but for some reason, they are almost absent from the menus this time around. We researched “Adriatic Sardines” and did read that the EU is trying to introduce measures to combat over-exploitation by Croatia and Italy so maybe some controls are in place. The ones we were served were definitely smaller than before but very tasty and still cheap. After Trogir, we will head out to live on some of the islands for a couple of weeks so hopefully sardines will become more common.

We enjoyed a day exploring part of the Krka (pronounced Krarka) National Park, inland and north-east of Trogir. After much research, we used a tour bus to get there because the local buses looked complicated and involved a lot of sitting around waiting. The park surrounds a large deep valley carved out of the limestone ranges by the Krka River. The descent of the river through the lush forested valley produces an incredible area full of waterfalls and sparkling clear running water. Exploring the whole park, with its castles, forests and rivers, would take days or even weeks, and we just visited Stradinski Buk, which features some of the best waterfalls and some excellent walk trails. As with everywhere, it was crowded, even though we had held off going on the weekend. The weekdays mean you get smaller adult and family crowds but you run into the school excursions. The walk trails were crowded and the swimming area quite full, despite the rather cold water. However, the crowds did not detract from the sheer beauty of the place. There was running water everywhere, framed with extremely picturesque forest. Amazingly, the waterfalls are growing slightly each year, rather than being eroded away as one would expect. The water is so high in minerals that limestone (or travertine) actually settles out of the water onto the rocks, in much the same way that stalactites grow in cave systems. It creates some lovely effects around the falls.

Beautiful Krka National Park

The lush forest was such a contrast from the drive to the park, across open and bare mountain sides covered in rock rubble and low scrub. It is amazing just how barren looking the whole inland region is with almost no top soil of any kind visible, save in the odd isolated shallow valley. Areas of rocky surface have been painstakingly cleared of rocks over the centuries, the rocks stacked into an extensive series of drywalls. A few areas had vines or apricots planted but olives are the main crop, mostly small gnarly trees by Italian standards. A bit of research reveals that the bareness of the hills results from a combination of factors. The natural harshness of the limestone karst system means that topsoil has not built up over the years. Where forests did flourish, heavy milling by the Venetians in the Middle ages as their naval power grew denuded the coastline, adding to erosion problems. Whatever the reason, the effect is harsh and it is certainly not the type of place I would ever want to do any gardening. Along the way we passed a number of marble quarries, with steps of perfectly smooth blocks cut into the hillside. The marble from this part of the World is famous and said to be top quality.

We thoroughly loved Trogir. Although not quite as big or spectacular as Zadar, it is a very easy place to live in. In fact, I think it is a much better choice of somewhere to stay than Split, even though everyone goes to Split. The international airport is far closer to Trogir than Split, accommodation cheaper and the crowds are not as bad. A few cruise ships do come to Trogir but they are much smaller than the huge ones that go to Split. Split can be accessed as a day trip by ferry, with the one main attraction there being Diocletian’s Palace.

Another ferry trip took us back to Split to catch a connecting ferry on to our next stop, Supertar on Brac Island.

PHOTO GALLERIES:

Trogir

Krka

Split

 

 

 

Zadar, Croatia, June 2017

June 11, 2017 /

Zadar  4-9 June 2017

We woke on board the ferry after a good night’s sleep and had a breakfast while the ship docked. Unfortunately for us, the docking point has changed from its old location in the old town, which would have made for an easy walk to our accommodation, to a new complex still under construction a little way south at Gazenica. This meant a two bus transfer into the old town and a bit of a walk to actually reach the bus stop. The facility is so new that there is a n almost complete lack of signage so it took a bit of doing to work out just where to catch the bus. We finally located a timetable and found we had missed a bus by 10 minutes and had a 90 minute wait for the next one, due to the fact that it was a Sunday. Why do so often get somewhere on a Sunday? Australian Governments will have us believe that the rest of the World works 24/7 but it simply isn’t true. The only things that work on Sunday in Europe are church bells.

Eventually, we made it into Old Zadar and walked into the central Plaza called People’s Square, a gorgeous little square surrounded by medieval buildings. Our accommodation is right on the edge of the square but we were early and still had a few hours to kill before we could check in. A hot chocolate and a spot of crowd gazing soaked up an hour then we wandered off in search of a spot to sit. A couple of hundred metres along we entered the old Roman Forum area, chock full of broken columns and arch ways. The layout of the forum was easily visible and the whole place just reeked of history. As we sat and looked at the buildings around us we saw that most had incorporated pieces of ancient Roman stonework into their facades. There were magnificent porticoes, gracious stone columns and strangely carved gargoyles in abundance. It was an introduction to our home of the next six days that held a lot of promise.

View over Zadar, Our ferry, Our accommodation and the People’s Square

By noon, we had access to our little apartment and met Mate, our host. The apartment is hidden away through several sets of doors, up a flight of stairs and overlooking a tiny courtyard. It is old, full of mis-matched bits of furniture and plumbing but the location is to die for and the whole thing works for us. We live right in the middle of one of the World’s top tourist destinations with everything in walking distance (there are no vehicles allowed in the old town) all for less than $A60 a night. We are in heaven!

Old Zadar is on a peninsular, making it a near impregnable fortress throughout history. A solid wall surrounds the town, broken in places by gateways. Each gateway is an individual masterpiece of old World charm, most incorporate sections of Roman ruins with one, the Seagate, even using an old triumphal arch. The whole of the old town is very walkable and there is an easily accessible walk bridge across the water divide to the newer area. Most of the bigger hotels are on the newer side so the walkway is filled throughout the day and much of the night with a steady stream of tourists crossing over to soak up the atmosphere. We just walk outside anytime we feel like a dose of ancient Zadar. However, there is a price to pay for the location. Things are quite a bit more expensive than we experienced in Split back in 2012. Part of this would be because the Aussie Dollar is not as generous now as it was then but it is also because we are living right in the heart of touristville. You go to one eatery and the drinks are cheap but the food expensive then the next one goes for the opposite approach. Nowhere is cheap. We have cooking facilities so we hit the supermarkets and planned a program of cooking and eating in. Meat is cheaper than in Italy but otherwise things seem to be somewhat on the dear side. Maybe it settles down once you get outside the old city area.

The history of Zadar is so much a part of the place that we put aside our usual reluctance to visit museums and went to the Zadar Museum of Archaeology. It proved to be a wonderful display of artifacts dating down from Neolithic times to the Medieval Period, with a whole floor devoted to the Roman times. The sheer size and scope of the collection is amazing, with a great number of pieces collected from the immediate vicinity of the town and the nearby areas. What struck us most was the relatively short period of time it took for humans to come out of the stone age and into the sophistication of the bronze age and just how clever they were once they had discovered working with metals. The second floor was devoted to the Roman era and immersed us in a time of incredible organization and civic development. Once again, the display of artifacts far outweighed anything we had seen before and with a Roman Forum laid out before us right outside the door of the museum we were almost transported back to another age. Well worth the visit.

The North Gate, Roman Forum, St Anastasia’s Cathedral

One evening after dinner we walked to the tip of the peninsula to the famous sea organ pipes, a simple yet fascinating structure along the sea wall. A series of holes and caverns have been formed in the steps leading down to the seawall, allowing the waves from the ocean to become trapped underneath and force air through carefully constructed holes. Each one resonates with a slightly different pitch, producing a beautiful church organ type of sound as the sea moves in and out. The stairs extend for about 70 meters along the coast with 35 pipes of different length, diameter and tilts. The pipes play 7 chords of 5 tones. It is a very soulful and restful sound and many people come down to watch the sun set and listen to the calming sounds of the sea organ.

A bit further along is a 22 metre circular light display, powered by solar power generated and stored during the day. By night, the huge display turns on a myriad small lights, arranged to simulate the size and position of the planets. Huge crowds congregate to watch the display come to life as the sun sets.

The highest point in Zadar is the church spire of St Anastasia’s Cathedral so we climbed the 190 steps to take in the views of the city. Narrow spiral stairways usually send Christine into a fit of the heebie-jeebies but she was very well controlled, showing that all this exposure to medieval history is starting to pay off. The views were quite breathtaking, all though we kept a very wary eye on the time lest the damn church bells started peeling while we were next to them. They are deafening from our apartment and that is about half a kilometre away.

Besides the walk bridge over the water there was a tiny little rowed ferry boat that operated from 6am to 11pm. It has been owned by the same family for years and different members take turns to do the rowing. It costs 5HRK ($A1) a trip and they seem to be continually on the move with between 2 and 8 passengers so they must pay their way. We used the service a few times. A charming way to go.

The little rowed ferry boat.

By far the highlight of our time in Zadar, and even of the trip to date, was a day trip on a boat out to some of the nearby islands. We went on the Zvida Mora (www.zvidamora.hr) a small traditional wooden boat, with its wonderfully entertaining and knowledgeable skipper Milan. What helped make the day a highlight was the terrific mix of fellow passengers, which included a family of Brits/Aussies, a lovely couple of girls from Hungary and Norway, and a fun group of young Germans. We all got on really well and tried hard to rid the boat of all alcohol as we went. We snorkeled (some SCUBA dived) in wonderfully clear but icy cold water, we stopped for a beer (which we didn’t need) in a gorgeous little village and we trekked around Osljak, the smallest inhabited island in the Adriatic Sea. Besides handling the boat all by himself and providing a wonderful running commentary of the sights and history, Milan showed off his culinary skills by cooking a magnificent fish lunch. We each got a perfectly cooked whole fish on the bone with some excellent potatoes fried with a herb mixture. The fish was local Seabream, similar to an Australian Bream, full of flavor and firm of texture. The tour followed along the inside of Uglijan Island, passing by numerous gorgeous little secluded coves, usually with a couple of cruising yachts anchored up. I would love to hire a yacht for a week from Zadar and spend some time exploring the huge expanse of water available to cruisers. We had an absolutely amazing day, one that will remain a highlight for a long time.

Our day out on Zvida Mora

For the last five years we have been singing the praises of Split as a top place to visit and stay for a while. Zadar has probably taken the crown away from Split. It is so easy and laid back yet so packed full of charm. Is it the best of Croatia? Only time will tell.

PHOTO GALLERY:

Zadar

Dubrovnik Harbour with the island of Lokrum in the background

Croatia 2012

July 24, 2012 /

 

A YouTube video of our time in Croatia can be seen here.

16th July Ancona to Split

Today we left Italy to cross the Adriatic Sea by ferry to Split, in Croatia. A taxi proved to be the best way of getting to the ferry terminal, although that in itself is a two stage affair. The check-in and collection of a boarding took place in one building, then it was onto a shuttle bus to travel around the port to immigration and departure. Every part seemed to have a long wait and standing around in queues became quite tedious. We found ourselves alongside another Perth couple, Paul and Laura, both teachers taking time off on a deferred salary scheme. They were travelling in a motorhome and had it booked on to the ferry. Unfortunately, they found that the papers they had for the hired van were actually photocopies and that the Croatian authorities demand originals. It could be that they would be sent back. Philosophically, they pushed on.

The ferry was a large twin hulled hydrofoil which did the crossing in five hours, less than half the time of the numerous other companies operating, all of which travelled at night. We took up residence in the spacious and comfortable rear lounge area, sharing a seat with Paul and Laura. For us, the voyage consisted of a bit of beer drinking, a little bit of eating, much sharing of travel yarns and the occasional stroll around the decks. For many other passenger, the voyage consisted of throwing up their last meal, lying around on lounges or the deck groaning, or just sitting around looking like death. The wind was blowing quite hard and a heavy broadside chop added to the regular low swell to produce a bit of a roll, unusual on such a large twin hull. Walking around was a lot of fun, with straight line paths being quite impossible.

 

Coming into Split

The scenery consisted mostly of water, not surprising as we mostly just sailed straight across the Adriatic, although we did pass several picturesque islands along the Croatian coast. Docking into Split was efficient and we once again joined the inevitable queue to pass through immigration into Croatia. Nearby, we could see Paul and Laura lined up in their camper, awaiting their fate. We’d enjoyed their company on the way over and had our fingers crossed that all would go well for them and they wouldn’t have to face an immediate crossing back to Italy.

Once processed, we were met by Mirko, the owner of the apartment we had booked. Mirko is a very friendly and helpful guy, showing us the way to our lodgings and pointing out the locals spots along the way. He spent a good half hour with us giving us tips on things to do in and around Split. This advice, and the sights we’d seen on our short walk from the pier, convinced us to extend our stay from two nights to four, and Mirko said he was sure he could find us some accommodation.

Our first impressions were very positive; the whole place was alive. There were lots of tourists but things did not seem out of hand. We could step out of the door and straight across the road to the markets, filled with incredible fruit, vegetables and fresh foods. The markets were on the edge of Diocletian’s Palace, an amazing Roman palace dating back to the 5th Century AD. While much has fallen, a lot is now incorporated into other buildings and enough of the original exists that one can sense what it was once like. The lower levels are filled with shops of all kinds while the upper levels are mostly small hotels and apartments. Signs of general decay, damage by waves of successive invasions over the Centuries and local destruction and rebuilding is much in evidence but somehow it is very refreshing to find that all this is actually being preserved through usage. The result is one big living, working time capsule.

Many ferris and cruise ships make Split Harbour a busy place

17th July Split

We had a lazy day, needing to unwind a bit after the rigours of Verona and Venice. All we really did was use the local supermarket, go across the road to the markets to buy some fresh vegetables and stock up on dried fruit. The dried fruit here is wonderful and cheap, masses of figs (even Christine is a convert), apricots, prunes and lots of nuts.

We did have trouble buying milk though. I chose a bottle that definitely suggested it was low fat. All was fine until we poured it into our coffee for the first time and it curdled badly. Christine had used some instant coffee left by a previous tenant so we blamed that, but the same happened with our instant coffee. Then she tried the milk and nearly gagged. It was some disgusting Yoghurt type stuff, very thin and pourable but with a taste that was unlike any yoghurt I’ve ever had. I’d bought some yoghurt for my cereal so we checked that. Same result! Inedible! After pouring a litre and a half of yoghurt and cat’s piss down the sink, Christine headed back to the supermarket to try once again for milk. She got it next time but now we are very cautious when buying dairy.

Another small outing was to purchase a bus ticket to Dubrovnik, our next destination and to check out the local travel agency. The bus ticket proved easy, but the travel agency was more difficult. Someone in Split needs to take a coordinating role because it is actually a bit hard sometimes to find the right kind of experience or tour. If there is one central agency, we didn’t find it. Most places purporting to be a “Tourist Bureau” were actually small time booking agencies for one or two tours. Resorting to the Internet, we chose a good looking tour to the outlying islands and then set off to find the agent and buy a ticket. The address was in Diocletian’s Palace, not far at all, but somewhere in the labyrinth of tiny streets. We entered it into Google Maps but it was hopeless. The streets were so narrow that a GPS fix was impossible and the guidance system just ran us around in circles. Eventually, we came across an agent with the kind of trip we wanted, bought it, then exited to find the agent we’d been seeking was directly opposite.

 

Diocletian’s Palace

 

Shops in the basements of Diocletian’s Palace

We ate both lunch and dinner in our apartment, saving both money and energy. It was a lovely relaxing day, although we did worry that Mirko would come back and we’d have to confess that we’d seen little of all the sights he had directed us to. It was a lovely relaxing day. Just watching the comings and goings in our neighbourhood was fun. We live on the ground floor of a three storey block. Mirko owns four or five of the apartments, others are rented by someone else and there seems to be a few permanents that live in a B&B. Young backpackers come and go (always entertaining) and a small army of cleaners service the variety of rooms around us. We have access to a small courtyard, where we spend time in the cooler hours. It is also the clothes line area so they is a constant stream of activity and I must say the typical image of a “washerwoman” is somewhat challenged here with all the youthful slim bodies around. There are also three resident cats, that just sit and ignore all unless there is any offer of food or unless the “cat lady” in the middle apartment appears. Mirko appears every now and then showing prospective tenants around. It is all so entertaining.

July 18th Split

After breakfast, we packed up our beach gear and headed down to the local quay to catch our boat for a day on the water. We boarded the “Pisanica”, a small wooden vessel that would take us first to Maslinica on the Western end of the island of Solta then on to a deep inlet on the Eastern end they were advertising as the “Blue Lagoon”.

 

The Pisanica

It was an interesting experience, with the crew displaying little knowledge of how to cast off and get underway, although the skipper seemed to know what he was doing. Once away, they all started into steady beer drinking, although pouring a beer in the rolling swell was somewhat difficult.

The coastal scenery was magnificent, with the majestic mountains behind Split taking form as we drew further from shore. They must be truly amazing in Winter, with the snow covered peaks in the sun. Small towns dotted the various islands and mainland spurs, while the sea had a scattering of yachts getting underway to various destinations. Sitting watching the other passengers is always fun. We had to laugh at one woman who was resplendent in her hot pink ultra high wedge-heeled shoes, who was generally dressed well below her years. She would have lots of fun on the beach in those. Some others who were looking rather green found a spot to lie down and wish for the day to end. One strange looking chap, face half hidden by unruly and unwashed hair, had wandered on board late and seemed to negotiate with the ticket seller. His trousers were held up with a piece of old string and his clothes were last washed in the Twentieth Century. He sat forlorn and miserable for much of the trip out. We figured he was returning to an island or something.

 

Maslinica

Maslinica proved to be an absolutely delightful little seaside village, somewhat touristy, but still quaint and pretty. It is set in a deep inlet, completely surrounded by small quays. We docked at a modern quay, complete with attendants to help. Numerous motor and sailing yachts were tied up along the quay, with many more dotting the various nearby coves and bays. The foreshore was lined with eating establishments and cafes, while a few rocky beaches were filled with bathers and sunseekers. It was bloody good!

We walked around, stopped for ultra cheap and very cold beer, ate our first icecream of the whole trip, swam in the wonderfully clear water and spent ages watching expensive yachts come in to dock in the ever decreasing space. As the time wore on, the breeze picked up and by the time we returned to the “Pisanica” for lunch, it was rocking at the dock. Lunch was barbecued chicken or sardines, selected upon booking. We’d chosen one each, fortunate because both were good. We were served a basket of bread and a bottle of white wine to accompany it and there was no shortage because some passengers had elected to forgo lunch, fearful they would lose it in the worsening weather conditions. The rocking of the boat on the quay forced some onto the pier to eat lunch while some just stayed away altogether. The old bloke in the ragged clothing was in seventh heaven and wolfed down all his tucker and a whole bottle of wine.

The skipper came along the tables to explain that the strengthening wind meant proceeding to the “Blue Lagoon” was a poor option and offered the chance to stay the afternoon in Maslinica. We didn’t care either way and the majority elected to remain. One group were upset and tried to argue it out but got no support. It was back to the quay for boat watching or another swim. We wandered off, stopping to admire the way “wedge-heels” had managed to organise herself on the beach to sunbath in her bikini yet retain her shoes. Apparently, those shoes don’t come off for anything.

Getting off the wharf to head for Split was quite an affair. Once again, the crew proved completely incompetent (or pissed) and the boat was objecting to being thrown against the stone pier so finally, in desperation, the skipper called for the line to be cut. The crewman pulled out a puny steak-knife, that must have been razor sharp because it cut through the heavy mooring line like cheese and we were away. As we putted away into the heavy chop, we could see a small boy rushing forward to try to claim his prize of a small length of rope.

The trip home was even more beautiful than the trip out, with a rising mountain backdrop. The boat ran well in a heavy following sea and even our uncomfortable sailors survived. The old guy actually looked happy (perhaps it was all the wine). What a great day. Just to cap it all off, the crew continued to drink beer steadily, although the skipper had an hour’s sleep, and the docking performance was so bad that they got into a very loud Croatian slanging match with the boat in front. That made it an even better day.

19Th July Split

The plan for the day was to see more of Split than just the tiny section of the Old Town and Diocletian’s Palace that we had wandered through. We thought we’d catch a “Hop On Hop Off Bus” to tour the modern parts of the city. Split is Croatia’s second city and is quite extensive. Unfortunately, this didn’t work out well because there was an enormous cruise ship in the harbour and the bus was booked out.

 

Wandering around the old town

Instead, we elected to just walk and see, a great decision in the end. Once outside of the palace walls, the city opens out into broader streets and more open squares and we found walking around quite easy. We wandered across to the Northern side of the peninsular and discovered some lovely coves filled with yacht clubs, sporting facilities and a huge arena. After an iced coffee and time watching the passing parade, we made our way back up and over the hill to enter the old town and its labyrinth of alleys. By luck of good management, we found our way back to the Birkenstock shop that Christine had found two days before to buy yet another pair of shoes. “This is the only place I’ve found the style I want,” is her excuse, but I let it slide because the shoes are much cheaper than those in Perth and even cheaper than on-line.

After lunch back at the apartment, we set out for the local beach, a crowded spot but nice enough for a bit of a swim. The water is shallow but at least the bottom is sand and not the usual rock that one finds in this part of the World. After a swim, we wandered around the point to explore but all the other beaches we encountered were rocky with pebble beaches. I don’t understand how people can go to sleep on a beach towel covering a rock beach. Then it was back to sleep in the comfort of air-conditioning and a proper mattress.

We returned to the restaurant we’d found on our first night for a wonderful meal of seafood risotto, followed by a stroll along the front promenade. There was all kinds of entertainment on offer and we stopped to be enthralled with a wonderful display of ethnic dancing. It was very energetic and very entertaining. After a few more venues, we eventually turned in, Split being one of the few places that has regularly kept us up until quite late.

20th July Bus to Dubrovnik

After a leisurely pack-up, we walked down to the bus station for our trip to Dubrovnik, approximately 200km to the South. The bus seemed comfortable enough although we were assigned the front seats, probably because we had booked a few days beforehand. Just as well too because the bus filled up. The front seat affords a wonderful view but I’ve found that I sometimes prefer not to watch when in heavy mountainous terrain.

I was puzzled at first because we headed North and kept following signs to Zagreb and Rijeka but eventually we had climbed well into the mountains and took a sweeping bend onto a huge motorway headed South. The views back over Split during the mountain climb were truly impressive from the first ridge at around 600m.

Mountains were to dominate the scenery during the drive and just as in Spain, the road passes through numerous tunnels and across some enormous bridge spans. While we were on dual carriageway things were fine and we could sit back and soak in the wonderful views. Later, nearly half way to Dubrovnik, the motorway finished abruptly and we turned off onto a narrow road with barely room for two vehicles and quite terrifying when they were both trucks or buses. The road headed down at a 10% incline and there were times when we clutched hands or simply closed eyes. To Christine’s right, a sheer drop away fell two to three hundred metres to a large river and flat plain, filled with agricultural crops. It seemed miles below and there was very little between the bus wheels and the edge. Fortunately, the bus driver was quite careful and made regular use of the air brakes.

Eventually, we reached the bottom and drove through the tiny village of Drusina, creeping around parked cars and negotiating tight corners. Then it was back into the mountains again and although the road widened, it remained single carriageway and had very little in the way of a verge or pullover area. The scenery actually got more spectacular, with a huge inland freshwater lake area and a large river.

Finally, we emerged from a winding road to a checkpoint into Bosnia and had to stop while an official wandered through the bus to check on passports. Bosnia has a 24km stretch of coastline that separates Dubrovnik from the rest of Croatia so all buses from Split have to pass through this strip. While our inspection seemed quite lax, we did watch a young couple in a camper van who were frisked then had to stand outside while their van was gone through.

They use the small town of Neum as a rest stop and we were able to buy a hamburger. Unfortunately for most passengers who were carrying Croatian Kuna, the one restaurant wanted Euros or Bosnian Marka but fortunately for us we had some Euros. We scored a delicious hamburger for only 2.5€. After a twenty minute stop, it was off again, through more mountain passes and seaside cliff drives. We ate our hamburgers slowly because we had to wait each time for the stomach to settle in order to swallow. Instinct said “Don’t look!” but the scenery was so beautiful we had to look. We passed through the border again to re-enter Croatia, this time they just waved us through.

Finally, we entered Dubrovnik, a two hundred kilometre trip in four hours. This is without doubt the most spectacular drive I have ever encountered anywhere.

A taxi from the bus station dropped us at our apartment and the owner, Anna, was there to greet us and show us around. Just as with Mirko in Split, Anna was a terrific host and gave us tips to exploring the city. She showed us to our room and we were thrilled, particularly by the wonderful terraced area that overlooked the walls of the old city on one side and the old harbour on the other. We were perfectly happy just to settle in to the view and do nothing, but with only two nights in Dubrovnik, we got our act into gear and headed out to do some tourist stuff.

 

Our wonderful terrace overlooking the harbour

We figured we had time to target four main things in Dubrovnik;

  1. Walk the city walls and old town – these 14th Century fortifications are just on 2km long and are in excellent condition;
  2. Visit the tiny island of Lokrum, sitting in the middle of Dubrovnik Harbour;
  3. Ride the cable car to the top of the mountain above Dubrovnik;
  4. Visit D’Vino wine bar – a cult location to learn about Croatian wines and cheeses.

The walk of the walls was first up, and not far away. We could almost touch the Eastern walls from our terrace so we entered the old town through the nearest gate and followed a huge flight of steps down to the main thoroughfare. As in all old medieval towns, the visual sights are stunning, with gorgeous little nooks and corners making it a photographers dream. The town was reasonably crowded, with a cruise ship in port but things weren’t out of hand.

 

The fortified walls of the old city

Dubrovnik was badly damaged during the Siege of Dubrovnik in 1991, with the Serbian forces shelling the old city from the heights during the three month attack. Signs of the damage are still present, mostly in the form of reconstructions or new buildings to replace the lost ones.

We paid our 70 Kuna and climbed the steep steps to the top of the walls and commenced the circumnavigation of the city. From this vantage point, the old city is really beautiful, the layout of the streets being clearly visible and the various spires and domes protruding above the sea of terracotta roofs. It was hot up top, and we were soon sweating freely as we followed the walls around. The scene changed constantly, from inland mountains, to the rocky points on the seaward side followed by the busy movements in the tiny semi-circular harbour. It was hard going in the heat but well worth the effort.

 

 

View from the walls

The view from the walls had convinced us to drop the cable car from the list. I’m sure the views are good but we’d already taken in the essential Dubrovnik. We picked up a supermarket on the way home for supplies, having the intention of eating in, and found that the cost of lovely commanding views over the harbour is that we have to trudge uphill on the return home.

Dinner on the terrace was a sheer delight, particularly with the lights playing on the walls of the old city and the mirror calm harbour reflecting the anchored boats. A beautiful spot.

21St July Dubrovnik

We set out quite early to go to the island of Lokrum, a short ferry ride away and sitting in the middle of Dubrovnik Harbour. The island has a long history, having been the site where Richard the Lionheart got himself shipwrecked, and also once owned by Emperor Maximillian of Mexico. It contains the ruins of a few buildings, an old fort built by the French and a partly intact Benedictine monastery.

 

 

Dubrovnik Harbour with the island of Lokrum in the background

As tiny islands go, it is quite cute, being beautifully wooded with cypress, pine and oak. Walk paths are well developed and it doesn’t take long to get anywhere much. The highlight though, is the short boat ride over, producing some fantastic views of Dubrovnik and its mountain backdrop. The harbour is a hive of activity, with small boats, sea kayaks and glass bottomed boats scurrying around. Near the island jetty, the scenery was dominated by the huge “Concordia Favolosa”, sister ship to the ill-fated “Costa Concordia”.

Once of the island, we quickly took in the sights then checked out a small salt lake on the island, locally called the “Dead Sea”, that proved to look much better in the guide brochures than in real life. Next, we headed down to one of the many rocky beaches. Some are “clothes optional” but we managed to avoid those, although in practice most beaches in Europe seem to be rather liberal. What is hard to find is a sandy beach. These weren’t even the commonly found pebble beaches, but rather low rocks and small cliffs. Steel ladders embedded in the rock dotted the coastline, which made for easy access, but made it hard to find a spot to lie down and sunbathe. The usual hire lounges were around but aren’t much good if you only like to lie out for 15 minutes or so then move on.

 

Beautiful scenery on Lokrum

Still, the sea was a pleasant 26 degrees and the water incredibly clear. There were a few fish around, mostly bream type things and, as always, lots of small sardines and hardyheads. There wasn’t much in the way of life on the rocks, with no corals, sponges or suchlike visible but we spent a while exploring below the surface before just swimming.

Later, we had to drop in to the snack bar and have the usual refreshing lager and watch the passing parade as the ferries came and went. We’d taken a packed lunch so the fact that there was only one expensive restaurant on the island wasn’t a worry.

Back on the mainland, we headed for home to have a relaxing afternoon doing nothing.

In the evening, we wandered off into the old city again to track down the D’Vino Wine Bar, a spot with a big cult following. It was a cute little spot and we ordered the three wine tasting each, Christine with the reds and me with the whites. The wines were served and explained to us, all coming from different regions of Croatia and Slovenia. We haven’t heard much about Dalmatian wines in Australia because there are virtually no exports and certainly not down our way. The wines were all of an excellent quality and had more substance to them than many of the French wines we’d had. It’s a pity we hadn’t had access to this on first landing in Split because buying wine has been a bit of a puzzle to us, not understanding any of the terms. The wine industry has a system of government quality and area control, similar to France, and we have found them to be universally good, although these were better again. We rounded our wines off with a preserved meat and cheese platter.

 

Wine tasting and meat/cheese platter at D’Vino Wine bar

22 July Dubrovnik to Bucharest

The airport shuttle bus left from a spot about 100m up the road from our apartment, making the accommodation almost the perfect location. With the airport some 20km out, a taxi can be quite expensive so we joined the backpacker set and took the shuttle at 35 Kuna (about $6) each. THis proved to be the best tour money we’d spent in Dubrovnik. Even if you aren’t catching a flight. It is worth taking the airport shuttle for the drive. The road follows the seaside cliff for 90% of the journey and affords some spectacular views of the numerous offshore islands and the area sign-posted as the Dubrovnik Riviera. We even saw some inviting sand beaches. The experience just strengthened our resolve to return to this magnificent part of the World. We leave for Romania well pleased with our time in Croatia. It is definitely a place to return to and explore more and the thought of chartering a yacht to sail the Dalmatian Islands is very appealing. It is hard to compare Dubrovnik with Split because they are so different in history and nature, but on the whole we preferred the laid back atmosphere and low cost of living in Split. Dubrovnik is almost too perfect and neat, and the prices are more akin to Venice and Paris than elsewhere. Still, it can’t be missed.

© 2026 hinchy.org

Theme by Anders Noren — Up ↑