Tag: Sydney

Melbourne, Canberra & Sydney – January 2024

14-21 January  – Australian Open Tennis

We headed to Melbourne for the annual bout of the Australian Open. Melbourne does the event so well that it is hard to say no. The organisation is amazing, the tennis fabulous and almost everything is affordable, except for the drinks of course. We chose to fly Virgin and found it much changed since Covid. The positive is that the flight left on time. However, the food offerings were very limited and very poor value for money. The entertainment system is a WiFi based bring your own device, whcih it always was, but it used to work. Ours didn’t doing everything except allowing a press on the PLAY button. Luckily, we had brought our own downloads. The Skybus from the airport to Southern Cross Sation still works well and we were soon on the train to our accomodation.

We organised an AirBnB in Murrumbeena, south of the city and only a 300m walk to a train station on a line that took us direct to Richmond station for the tennis. It was a basic place, a little small, but having all the neccessary things for comfort. The biggest issue is with Murrumbeena itself. The place is dead. There is no supermarket and most of the shops are shut, even boarded up in some cases. It is a mystery as to why it is like this because the next train stop down the line is Carnegie and supports a bustling and vibrant restaurant and cafe strip that is never empty. We had to walk about a kilometre down the road to shop.

We organised three days of tennis, booking tickets in the John Cain Arena for each day. John Cain is excellent value, because reserved seats on the ends which are in permanent shade are only a little more than a day pass. Between that and a selection of matches on outside courts that don’t require booking, we saw many of the Aussie stars in action along with some big name international players. It was excellent tennis. 

John Cain Arena

Kia Arena

In off tennis days, we wandered around Melbounre, had lunch at Mr San Ramen (a favourtie), travelled down to Mornington on the train to catch up with Azba and Mike (and Evie of course) and caught up with Simon and John in Brunswick. A highlight was going to an iMax version of the Queen Rock Montreal Concert of 1981. It was a memorable experience.

Mr San Ramen

No visit to Melbourne ever fails to impress. The transport system works a treat and is cheap, the food offerings are amazing and so varied that every taste is satisfied, while the organisation of sporting events is superb. The weather is usually the downside, but we were lucky and had mostly mild temperatures with only one day of rain.

 

 

Train Trip Melbourne to Canberra

With Week One of the Australian Open over, it was time for us to relocate to Canberra for the U14 Regional Softball Championships, starring the gorgeous granddaughter Kelsie. We shunned air travel and opted for the XPT daytime train Melbourne to Sydney. It does not stop in Canberra but gets close in Yass, with a one hour coach transfer to the nation’s capital. The trip was wonderful, with good scenery, a comfortable train, and a buffet car for snacks and meals. The trip takes 8 hours, quite long by world standards but there are frequent stops along the way. We added an extra 80 minutes due to a delay shortley out of Melbourne when someone had stolen the copper wire feeding the signals. We had to wait for two oncoming trains before proceeding at a slow speed for 20 kms. Despite the long journey, we were never bored, watching the scenery glide by, dozing a little, or watching some downloads. The train is 40 years old and lacks such things as wifi or usb charging ports. Fortunately, we were prepared and had charging pads and fully charged laptops. The ride was smooth on the Victorian side, less so once into NSW. At one point, passing throough some hilly country and climbing up, the train passed through a tunnel, then looped around and passed back over the tunnel again a couple of times as it gained altitude. It is a trip we could recommend and much better than flying if time is not an issue.

The coach transfer from Yass to canberra Central was not so comortable, with hard cramped seats and no noticeable suspension. At least it was only an hour so we were soon in Canberra and into an Uber for transfer to our AirBnB house in Hawker. The house was chosen for its closeness to the Hawker Softball Centre and its ability to accomodate us, Trevor, Emma and Ashton, as well as Simon and John who were flying up from Melbourne. Trevor and Emma arrived shortly after us and we gathered some supplies from the nearby Woolworths before settling in for the night.

24-28 January – U14 Regional Softball Championships – Canberra

The first day was a rest day for us spectators while the team settled in and familiarised themselves with the diamonds. The team is staying in cabins in a caravan park somewhere, so contact is limited to a few brief moments after games, just as it should be. Coach coaches, family watches and supports. Trevor and Emma met up with Rob Keane, a friend from high school days and now living in Canberra who offered the use of a car for our stay, an offer we gladly took up, the public transport being ordinary at best. We organised to retrieve the car while the others headed out to cover some of the ‘must see’ attractions in Canberra, something we did not need to do because of previous visits. The car would be particularly useful because the shops, although close by, are at the bottom of a steep hill, requiring a tough walk back carrying supplies. Simon and John arrived around midday and settled in, our group complete.

The rest of the week was all about softball, with each day revolving around the scheduled matches. Trev and Em and Ashton managed a few more sights in down times and we did take one trip into town, finding it just as dead and dull as we have in previous visits. The softball was great fun, the standard being so much higher than the normal club matches. Kelsie was brilliant, fielding very well at 2nd base and more than holding her own with the bat.

Trevor summarised each day on his Facebook posts.

Day 1. Great day from the girls – took NSW Sky down to the wire, going down by one with a series of great defensive plays. They got the bats going in game 2, winning by 10 over ACT. Great to see them putting what they’ve learnt in their training into action on the diamond! Kelsie was clean in the field and had a solid day with the bat, particularly in game 2!

Day 2.  Another 1-1 day, with a great win over SA as we got on top of their best pitcher early with some power hitting. A loss to NSW Navy was a good learning curve, and the girls will be stronger having faced some quicker pitchers. Kelsie has a great hit to RF but was caught, a mixed bag at 2nd and a rest for the majority of the NSW game. Sitting 4th after day 2 with VIC and QLD Metro to come on Day 3!

Day 3. Began with a win against Vic, although not overly convincing. Then played a great game against QLD Metro, but going down by one, 7-6. It leaves us needing a win against QLD Country tomorrow and NSW Sky beating SA to make the top 4. The girls will give it everything. Kelsie’s had a great day with the bat, and was flawless in the field. She has also destroyed two socks and plenty of bark off her knees and elbows as her compulsive sliding and diving habits continue…

Day 4. Great victory today, and things fell our way! We are into the minor semi (3vs4) tonight at 7pm EDST (4pm WST), with the prize a spot in the preliminary final tomorrow! Kelsie was great in the field at 2nd base, and did her bit with the bat. Had a nice hit that was caught at CF.

Unfortunately, we lost the Elimination Final against Queensland Metro by a narrow margin, putting us out. THe girls played a terrific game and Kelsie excelled, taking two amazing catches and a couple of excellent takes at 1st Base. The girls can be rightfully proud of their performance across the carnival. The parents and families certainly were impressed with the dedication and effort of all the team members.

Australia vs South Africa – Women’s T20 International

With a lay day to to not making the Preliminary Final, we took the chance to go to the cricket at Marnuka Oval. With a small crowd of around 2000, good seats were easy to find and excellent value at $20. Unfortunately, the cricket was not so good, with a lack lustre performance by Australia and an easy win to South Africa, their first after a 6-0 head to head. It was a relaxing day, compared to the tension of watching close fought softball matches all week.

29-30 January – Train to Sydney

With the softball over, we all went our different ways, Trevor and Em to Perth via Sydney, John direct to Perth on the same flight as the team, Simon to Melbourne on the Sunday and us to Sydney via the Southern Explorer, run by NSW Railways. It is a four hour trip through the Southern Highlands and offeres some scenic delights. There are vast areas of woodlands, beautiful farmlands and a number of quaint small towns, as well as a couple of regional centres such as Goulburn and Bowral. It was a comfortable and enjoyable trip, and not overly time consuming when one takes into account the requirements of air travel and the convenience of finishing the trip at Sydney Central Station, only a short walk from our accomodation. We stayed at the Wyndham Hotel, which features rooms with a kitchenette, allowing basic meal preparation. It is very well appointed, if not a tad small, but is very well located witht the Museum underground station 300m away.

Once settled in, we headed out to catch the underground to Circular Quay for a ferry to Manly. When in Sydney, fish and chips at Manly is a must do, and the perfect weather made sitting by the water at sunset enjoying a feed a wonderful experience, except for overeating. When will we learn that one serve shared is enough for us these days?

The next day was a full day to sight see. It started out wet, but the weather steadily improved and gave us plenty of time to walk. We followed a chain of parks, starting at Hyde Park, and followed through the Royal Botanic Gardens on a series of pathways that would lead us to the Opera House. The BOtanic Gardens are a must visit location in Sydney, with beautiful plam groves, garden beds and ferneries. At one point, we passed a bench and there was a very classy looking Italian leather handbag lying abandoned. There was no one around so Christine guarded it while I set off to find a staff member for help. I soon found a gardener, who radioed for a ranger. Hopefully, someone’s bad day would turn out for the better.

As we neared the Opera House, I was stunned at how small it looked. However, it turned out to be an illusion caused by our elevated approach, and once down at ground level, it assumed its imposing look once again. The walk around to Circular Quay was crowded with tourists from a large P&O cruise ship in port. We stopped at a cafe to have an iced coffee and watch the passing parade. We had planned to catch the ferry to Parramatta, just for the ride and to see the sight of the middle and upper harbour. By the time we got to the correct wharf, we found we had over an hour to wait, so we grabbed a kebab (shared this time) for lunch while waiting. A check of the timetable revealed that the trip to Parramatta would be 3 hours return, so we changed instead to the ferry to Pyrmont Bay (Darling Harbour) via Luna Park and Balmain. The views were spectacular, and at $2.50, would have to be the best value harbour cruise anywhere in the world. We just stayed on the ferry and returned to Circular Quay and an underground back. A wonderful day.

This has been our fourth visit to Sydney and our best, even though very short. Every other time has been hot or we have had somewhere we had to be but this time we got to just walk and and sit on ferries. The central streets of Sydney hold little appeal. The open spaces, beaces, parks and harbour are all delightful.

Tomorrow, it is a flight home. It is an easy train ride from Museum Station to the airport with our backpacks at a civilised time of 10am so things are working out well. Hopefully, the flight won’t be cancelled.  Note: THe train to the airport took about half an hour, including the walk, and the plane was on time. We caught a train to Kinglsey to get home.

 

 

 

Relocating to Somewhere Warmer

We flew back into Sydney from Perth and drove through the early evening and night south to Shellharbour, where we had left Sandpiper. The drive was a worry because I didn’t really know how the idea of driving on an unlit four lane highway through mountains would go at night. How would the visibility be? How much high beam can one use? Fortunately, the traffic was heavy enough that we always had the lights of other cars in range so we could see the twisting winding road ahead.

At Shellharbour, we set up the little tent and plugged in the $14 electric heater to ward off the worst of the freezing cold. Then we hit the local for dinner and filled up on carbs in a big way before heading home and crawling into bed.

The boat had been well looked after in a storage at Albion Park Rail and we had few issues hitching up and heading north, back through Sydney. The drive was reasonable easy, with only one false exit from the motorway (good for us) and relatively few nasty traffic filled roads.  Crossing the harbour was a big step, moving us on into a different part of the World and a different stage of our journey.

The beautiful Lane Cove River Tourist Park

The beautiful Lane Cove River Tourist Park

We pushed on through the city to Lane Cove River Tourist Park. What a wonderful place, a small patch of wilderness eating into the hustle and bustle of north shore Sydney.The Lane Cove River is a lovely little waterway nestled in a beautiful forest filled with tall eucalypts and huge tree ferns. There are numerous well defined walk trails and lots of signage to educate the ignorant on the many things to see and experience. We had a ball, marvelling at the many bush turkeys wandering around, the huge brush tailed possum that came aboard for a visit and the rainbow lorikeets that will happily sit on your hands or head.

Sydney to Tin Can 10

Our purpose for stopping in Sydney was to pick up our auto pilot, which had been repaired at the Raymarine headquarters in French’s Forest. Having navigated our way there and picked up the repaired equipment, we pushed on to the beach at Dee Why, a charming place, packed to the hilt with coffee clubs and restaurants. We treated ourselves to yet another hit of carbs that we didn’t need and made solemn promises about increasing the exercise regime.

We loved the huge tree ferns on the river walk.

We loved the huge tree ferns on the river walk.

From Sydney, we made a 100km dash north through Kuring-Gai. Here the M1 acts like a giant roller coaster, with enormous climbs from the river and creek crossings to the equally scary long sweeping drops down to the next valley. We were very glad that we had the big V8 diesel to give us the oomph we needed to tow Sandpiper on this leg. Our target was Newcastle, full-filling a long held promise to drop in on some friends from Kalumburu days. David and Coral are a part of our good times in Kalumburu and we looked forward to catching up with them. We chose to stay in Stockton, over the Hunter River from the Newcastle CBD, which was easily accessible by a regular ferry service.

Newcastle is the World's busiest coal port.

Newcastle is the World’s busiest coal port.

Our friends picked us up at the ferry terminal and gave us an afternoon’s “Cook’s Tour” of Newcastle, along with the obligatory stop for a beer on the beachfront. I must say, David was very successful in selling Newcastle, and dispelling my pre-conceived image of an industrial city of little merit. The “new” Newcastle is a place well worth visiting in its own right, with some incredible beach vistas, some beautiful old street-scapes and plenty of interesting eateries. It is not just all about the Hunter Valley. Newcastle is worth a visit.

The cute little ferry makes a regular crossing from Newcastle to Stockton.

The cute little ferry makes a regular crossing from Newcastle to Stockton.

Newcastle boasts some beautiful old street scapes.

Newcastle boasts some beautiful old street scapes.

It was so good to catch up with two very genuine people and it was with regret that we left the next morning and continued north, seeking warmer climes. The idea was to drive until we could see people swimming without wetsuits, and by the Sunshine Coast, at Mooloolaba, we found the spot.

Besides the warmth, the other reason for stopping along the Sunshine Coast was to catch up with some other great friends from Project Vietnam. PVI is largely a Sunshine Coast organisation, with a few other members scattered around the country. The members come from the surrounding areas of Mooloolaba, Maroochydore, Noosa, Caloundra, Paloma and many other spots along this beautiful stretch of coastline. The Sunshine Coast is like the Gold Coast on a “chill pill”. The towers are smaller and less numerous, the pace is slower, the people on the street are less scary. The Gold Coast reminds me of the 51st state of the USA. The Sunshine Coast is definitely Oz.

The beach front at Mooloolaba

The beach front at Mooloolaba

Within minutes of posting our arrival on Facebook, the phone calls came in and we arranged some meets with some terrific contacts from PVI. The next few days were hectic, what with catching up with friends, riding our bikes along the beach front, sampling the many culinary delights of the area and chatting to all the fellow grey nomads in the Mooloolaba Beach Caravan Park. We seemed to be a bit of magnet for fellow yachties, although Christine did point out that all the people stopping to chat for long periods were male. The place had to be a tight community, because the whole caravan park was designed for the 14 and 15 foot caravans of the 1970s and not the 25 foot monsters of today. Every day, there was a cooperative effort to get someone in or out of a spot, with cars shuffling, lots of directing and much discussion about the old days. Throughout all the chaos, we managed to maintain our self belief that we were among the young ones on the plot. Some day that belief may falter.

Our PVI friend Glen, had invited us out for a very casual Wednesday yacht race with the Mooloolaba Yacht Club on a friend’s 39 foot Contessa named Shiraz. With Christine aboard a yacht called Shiraz, we were certain to win, as we did, beating the other four boats on the day. We ended up with a crew of six, so no one was over taxed on the day and we all enjoyed a lovely sail around the island and back into the harbour. On the downwind leg, Glen somehow produced a birthday cake to celebrate Christine’s 60th. What a wonderful birthday! The prize for winning was a bottle of Bundy, but since we aren’t rum lovers, Christine declined the prize, leaving Glenn well pleased. We added to his cheers with a bottle of Ord River Rum that we had been carrying around unopened since a visit to Kununurra in 2010.

Sailing 1

After a couple of beers at The Wharf, we crawled our way home across the road to the caravan park, to hit the traditional “5sies” with Glen and Jan from Tassie, who were camped next to us. They were another couple of sensibly retired teachers and full of great yarns. Somehow, we still managed to drag our way out to enjoy a birthday meal of fish and chips at the Wharf before collapsing in bed.

The next morning, we packed and pulled out of Mooloolaba and headed north along the Bruce Highway to Tin Can Bay. The name of the place intrigued me. A special message in an old can? The last survivor’s meal? No! The place was known in indigenous term as Tincanbar, and it somehow got translated very badly. You get that. Tin Can Bay for us was to be the gateway to the Great Sandy Straits, the wonderful stretch of water that separates Fraser Island from the mainland. Fraser Island is the World’s largest sand island, and an absolute must see destination in itself. We can’t wait to get back on the water and explore the riches that await.

Shellharbour – Wollongong – Sydney

15-18 June Shellharbour NSW

We spent a few days exploring the Illawarra Region, which encompasses Wollongong, Shellharbour, Kiama and a host of other smaller places. The area is dominated by Lake Illawarra with Wollongong situated n its northern shore and Shellharbour to the south. Everything seems to cling to a very narrow coastal plain, with spectacular views of the Great Divide from most places. Flat land is scarce and most towns and housing developments are perched on the slopes of the numerous coastal hills and peaks. We didn’t get the bikes out.

Shellharbour Village

Shellharbour Village

Shellharbour has two distinct faces. Shellharbour Village is the old town, with some quaint old buildings, an excellent Art Deco Hotel from 1929 and a wonderful cafe and restaurant strip on the main street. Food prices are excellent for a seaside village and the ocean provides plenty of first class views. Shellharbour City is the opposite. Glittering new shopping centres and fast food outlets abound and the ubiquitous Bunnings makes its presence felt. The Stockland Shellharbour shopping mall boasts over 220 shops but we might as well have been anywhere in Australia because it seems like almost everything is part of a chain or franchise these days making one shopping mall much like another. Our favourite place was the fish markets, certainly the best we ever encountered. The produce was cheap, fresh and well labelled. Unfortunately, we were on count-down to flying home so we didn’t need any seafood.

Kiama was a very picturesque town with a marvelous historical strip of police station, court house and hotel providing a wonderful streetscape. The coastal scenery was equally impressive and we admired the couple of active blow holes. The main one near the lighthouse was not nearly as active as “The Little Blowhole”, which shot several huge eruptions skywards.

Quaint Kiama

Quaint Kiama

The Little Blowhole, Kiama

The Little Blowhole, Kiama

Some Sunday Markets at Dapto lured us, promising a huge collection of stalls and “garage sales”. We love markets but this one disappointed, largely due to the cold and wet weather. Many stalls were abandoning their spot and packing up. The place was full of some very strange people who used some very colourful language. We bought some socks and some excellent olives before heading off to find the Air Museum at Albion Park Rail. Along the way we passed the storage place that we have planned to leave Sandpiper for our trip home so we dropped in to organise things. While chatting to the girl at the counter, we mentioned that we had been to the markets at Dapto and she stared at us in amazement. “What did you do that for?” she asked. We could see her point. The Air Museum was closed for renovations so we just went back to Sandpiper.

Our favourite haunt, the Shellharbour Hotel

Our favourite haunt, the Ocean Beach Hotel in Shellharbour Village

We used the local bus system to go into Wollongong for the day, partly to simply check it out and partly to ensure that we knew all about the buses and trains to access Sydney for an upcoming three day trip. Being a senior, I took advantage of the $2.50 all day pass,  that will be even accepted for the train trip to Sydney, along with all trams and ferries in Sydney. Christine is a month and a half too young to have such bonuses.

Wollongong struck us as one of Australia’s ugly cities. There are parts that have redeeming features, such as the area down near the quaint little harbour and Flagstaff Hill, but elsewhere some really awful examples of 1960s and 1970s architecture clash with unkempt older buildings. Smother the whole lot in advertising signage and graffiti and you get the picture. The streets seem full of people who look as though they live there. Given the high cost of tattoos and piercings, one would think that everyone had jobs because we seemed to be the only unmarked or untagged people around. However, the Illawarra has the highest rate of unemployment in the country, currently running at a staggering 22%. We also noticed the prevalence of martial arts studios, along with a “free fight gym” and a “body building supplements warehouse”. Wollongong just did not grab us at all. Give us the outlying areas any day.

Wollongong Harbour (good fish and chips)

Wollongong Harbour (good fish and chips)

18 to 21 June – Sydney

We dropped the Land Cruiser off at Shellharbour Automotive for a few minor repairs and adjustments then caught the bus into Wollongong to catch the train to Sydney. We had planned carefully, giving ourselves just enough time to get off the bus and access the station. Trains run on the hour but we were anxious to avoid the long wait. After alighting from the bus and walking up hill for 10 minutes or so, we both had to admit that nothing looked familiar. A quick consult of Google Maps had us heading downhill again with Christine’s knee complaining and my ankle on a knife’s edge. Somehow, we managed to make the station with 5 minutes to spare and got on to the train. Christine, being a mere 59 years old, had to pay $13 for the privilege whereas I, as a senior with grey hair to prove it, got away with a $2.50 ticket that gives me a whole day’s travel on any form of transport between Newcastle and Wollongong.  Christine can’t wait for her birthday.

The train trip is one of the best we have had, rivaling the Hue to Danang leg in Vietnam. The track winds along the edge of the Great Divide, through beautiful eucalypt forests and patches of rainforest. There were wonderful displays of tree ferns and bird’s nest ferns and some amazing high crossings over deep river valleys. Coal mines, both abandoned and working, dotted the escarpments. It is a terrific train trip and probably taken for granted by the majority of commuters that travel the line.

Once in Sydney itself, we left the train at Central Station and transferred to a City Circle train to get to Wynard, giving us a short walk to our hotel, the City Hotel Enterprise in Clarence Street. This is a small boutique hotel in an excellent location, with easy walking access to Darling Harbour, Circular Quay and China Town. The room wasn’t ready for us so we left our backpacks and walked for a while to get our bearings before finding lunch. Our last visit to Sydney was in 1989 so we had a bit to catch up on.

Once settled in to our room, we relaxed for a while. A friend from Project Vietnam, Corrado, rang to say he was downstairs with his wife Han, a lovely girl from Ho Chi Minh City. We caught up with them and walked the short distance to Darling Harbour where we completed a circuit, stopping at two establishments to eat and have a few drinks. It was good to catch up with Corrado again and meet his wife, who is settling in to her new life in Australia very well.

With Corrado and Han in Darling Harbour

With Corrado and Han in Darling Harbour

An early rise was called for because we had booked a day tour with a company called Oz Trails, having seen a brochure in the hotel foyer. This tour proved an absolute winner. We were picked up in a minibus just around the corner from the hotel and joined an amazingly cohesive yet very cosmopolitan group of 24. There were several US citizens, including a very entertaining African American from LA, a lovely young girl from Antigua who is currently studying in Melbourne, a very nice family from India, a backpacker from Wales, a family from Singapore and a couple more that we think were from Hong Kong. Our driver/guide was a wonderfully knowledgeable and funny guy named Les. He clearly loves his job and he displayed an amazing knowledge of the history of Sydney and the Blue Mountains. He had been to the State of Origin Rugby the night before and was still sporting his blue and white fake dreadlocks as evidence.

The tour took us through Sydney’s Western suburbs (through some absolutely dreadful traffic) to the Blue Mountains. Having climbed the escarpment, Les took us to a lookout over the Jamieson Valley and we were completely blown away by the sight. A thick layer of cloud lay across the valley about 100 metres below us, creating a vision that rates number one in all time great natural wonders for us. One guy who had been to the Grand Canyon told us that this was better by several degrees but he may have been taken away by the moment. It was a staggering sight. Much to Christine’s horror, I crawled across to sit on the ledge, suspended over an awesome drop into the clouds below. It felt completely safe and secure, yet strangely, when I saw others do the same thing, I couldn’t bear to watch, especially the girl doing the one-legged yoga pose.

It is only a short jump to the top of the World

It is only a short jump to the top of the World

We tore ourselves away from the glory of the valley and Les drove us around to the opposite side, to Scenic World in Katoomba. We were last here in 1989 and things have changed considerably. There are now two cable cars, one crossing the gorge in front of Katoomba Falls and The Three Sisters and another bringing people back up from the valley below. The cable car had been upgraded to handle more passengers and now features a glass floor so you can have the thrill of looking past your feet to the tree tops far below. The cloud fill was still present but showing signs of lifting.

The Katoomba Rail

The Katoomba Rail

We took the cable railway down the cliff at a staggering 52 degree fall to the ledge that provided access to the myriad coal mines that honeycomb the cliffs. The last mine closed in the 1930s but the rail remains, giving tourists a thrill ride up and down the escarpment. At the bottom, Les took us on a very informative guided walk through the rainforest, stopping frequently to fill us in on history or items of natural wonder. We failed to see or hear any sign of a lyre bird so that Aussie icon remains un-ticked on our list. The walk is very well documented with signage and even a few sculptures depicting things from the coal mining days. A cable car took us up over the forest again back to the top. The great thing about Scenic World is that it is a one fee entry, giving unlimited access to the three rides. We took another ride up and down the cable railway, enjoying the feeling of being dropped over the edge of the cliff. The place is excellent value, given that there are literally kilometres of wonderful walk trails that we did not have time to explore.

From Katoomba, we headed to the small village of Leura, developed towards the end of the Nineteenth Century as a weekend getaway for the well to do Sydney siders. It is filled with lovely old houses and streetscapes lined with beautiful deciduous trees. I am sure that autumn is something special. We found a bite to eat at one of the many cafes, perused a few antique shops and wandered through the sweet shop, surely one of the best anywhere. Once back on the bus, it was clear that the sweet shop was a hit with a lot of the group, with exclamations of, “I never thought I’d find THESE in Australia.”  There were musk sticks, Jaffas, Hershey Bars and Starburst Gummy Bears and all sorts of things being passed around the bus.

Wentworth Falls

Wentworth Falls

The next stop was the beautiful Wentworth Falls, which require a 250 step downward march to see from a lookout. The base of the falls is another 1200 steps down but we didn’t have time for that thank God. We spent a bit of time admiring the falls and photographing young people doing Toyota jumps before trudging back up the steps. We took in an aboriginal petroglyph of a kangaroo prior to driving down out of the mountains again to the plains below.

We were to complete the tour on a ferry leaving from the Olympic Ferry Landing at Homebush so Les gave us a driving tour of the Olympic facilities. It is good to see that the whole complex is being used well and that there is no sign of the big white elephant. The ferry ride was a bit of a disappointment because the sun was setting rapidly and it was almost too cold to sit outside. The final part of the trip, into Darling Harbour, gave us some spectacular views of the Harbour Bridge and the CBD skyline. We were able to get off the ferry and complete an easy walk to our hotel in Clarence St, with only a brief stop along the way for a beer. It was a long but excellent day. The whole tour was only $79 each with another $35 for the Scenic World rides. It is so good to find some tourist attractions in Australia that are realistically priced.

We had a day in Sydney chasing up some items needing repair for Sandpiper. Our autopilot has ceased to function so we had to find a way out to an address in French’s Forest to drop it in to the Raymarine service centre. This took us across the harbor to Manly via the ferry, always a terrific ride. The weather was perfect and the seas flat, giving us some terrific views of the harbour. The bridge appeared smaller than I remembered it, possibly because I have seen so many big structures since 1989 and one’s perspective changes. Never the less, it is an amazing thing and deserving of the hype. Some iconic sights are better “in the flesh” than in photographs (eg Uluru) but the Opera House isn’t one of them. These iconic clam shells are beautiful in photographs but small and a bit pathetic in the flesh. The Opera House contributes to the whole harbour effect, working in conjunction with the bridge, Circular Quay, the Sydney Tower and the buildings of the CBD. Sydney wouldn’t be Sydney without it but by itself, the Opera House struggles.IMG_1962

IMG_2643

This is not Sandpiper.

This is not Sandpiper.

Another excursion required us to find a Whitworths Marine store in Drummoyne, which had imported into its stock some much needed parts for our Power Winch. A bus trip took us out past the huge Sydney Fish Markets and across the beautiful Anzac Bridge. It is actually quite a lot of fun to pick a place in a strange city and do the research of how to access it via public transport then navigate around. It was a challenge. We were sorry that time did not permit a tour of the fish markets, a sojourn we always appreciate.

We also enjoyed the delights of Paddy’s Market and the nearby China Town. Sydney’s China Town is very extensive and boasts of being the largest in Australia. Friday night is wonderful, with the Dixon St mall providing an endless selection of great street foods and small market stalls. The numerous Asian restaurants in the area all competed to provide an array of well priced menus. We grabbed a stomach filling supply of delicious snacks and headed back to the comfort and warmth of the hotel room. We gorged on deep fried crab things, prawns on sticks, an amazing noodle dish and other assorted things that we had already forgotten the name of. This is fine dining at its best.

Sydney represents somewhat of an enigma to us. It is always being compared and contrasted to Melbourne. We can only judge them each from a tourist perspective. Sydney wins hands down in the visual department, although Melbourne can counter with an amazing number of spectacular photographic vistas. The problem we have found with Sydney is that if you step away from the harbor, the city is so closed in as to be claustrophobic, whereas Melbourne is so wonderfully open. Its wide streets and long square grid plan makes moving around the CBD a dream whereas movement in Sydney largely consists of waiting at traffic lights. The labyrinth of narrow roads is choked with buses and cars all wishing to be somewhere else in a hurry. Sydney also seems to have been far less protective of its heritage architecture over the years and sports some serious faux pas in terms of the old and the new. On balance, Melbourne is the winner for us.

There was never a shortage of people on the streets of Sydney.

There was never a shortage of people on the streets of Sydney.

From here, it is back to Shellharbour to bed Sandpiper down for a month’s rest so we can head home to Perth to see our darling grandchildren. On our return, the weather will drive us north to warmer climes, but that is a story in the making.

 

Sydney on Sunday

Today was a great way to end our whirlwind trip. We hired a car and ventured out of the city to Jenolan Caves, about 180km out of Sydney in the Blue Mountains.
The first thing to note was the terrible weather – it was foggy and drizzling the whole way – sometimes we couldn’t see more than 20 metres in front of us because of the fog. The rental car had a temperature gauge for outside temperature – a chilly 8 degrees!
Luckily, visiting caves means that the weather is pretty much taken out the equation anyway. I had visited these caves back in 1990 when I was 12, and still clearly remembered the majestic entry to the Jenolan Village through a huge cave-tunnel. The road was paved back in the early 1900’s, as were most of the concreting throughout the caves. Today’s climate would not allow for any of these changes to be made for both natural and cultural reasons.
There are 7 cave tours to go on, with a couple of additional expert and novelty ones as well. It is an amazing system, with crystal clear river water running through the base of the system, and a huge array of stalagmites, stalactites and crystal formations. We chose the Lucas cave system, which involved an hour and a half of stunning beauty. Our tour guide took things a little to the wacky side by proclaiming the Cathedral Cavern an acoustic heaven (they play regular cello gigs there), and proceeding to play a symphonic version of Metallica throughout the chamber. He followed it up with a terrifyingly unrealistic “dinosaur” roar. Tacky, but the Japanese tourists loved it.
One minor disappointment was the seeming complete lack of regard for traditional owners of the area. The caves must surely have been a meeting place and law area for local Aboriginals, yet the fact the entire area had been completely concreted and “anglofied”, and there was not a single reference to traditional aboriginal owners or names was interesting, if not very noticeable.
With the weather again closing in, we left Jenolan Caves at 4pm to head back to Katoomba in order to visit the famous Three Sisters. Here the mission began. Sunday afternoon is clearly not a good time to head back to Sydney from the Blue Mountains. Things were fine until 20km out of Katoomba – at which stage it was about 4:45. The last 20km took well over an hour. The fog became even worse than before, and we seriously doubted whether a) there would be any light, and b) even if there was light, could we see the Sisters anyway?
We passed time in the car laughing at Sydney drivers (they are as bad as Perth drivers). As a sign of our boredom, we noted one bus could “eat 15 passengers”, and felt shocked at the revelation that Queensland was “The Smart State” (courtesy of their official numberplate), relegating all other states to dunce status.
We hit Katoomba determined to at least visit the Three Sisters. It was very dark, very foggy and very cold. Thoughtfully, Katoomba set the Three Sisters alight with a brilliant red light so it can be viewed even at night. It was a stunning view… except for the fog. Note the photo of Emma and Simon – yes, that is (apparently) the Three Sisters in the background!
All in all, we took it in our stride, and treated it all as a bit of lark. We elected to get some dinner in Katoomba, eating at a little café called Savoy – simple food, but nice. We then hit the road again and immediately were confronted by the same crawling traffic! It was a Sunday, but the jam lasted most of the way to the Motorway. A long drive home, which saw us leave Jenolan Caves at 4pm (remember – only about 180km from Sydney) and arrive home at 10pm. Take out an hour for Three Sisters and dinner, that still leaves 4 hours of driving! Aargghh!!
Overall, we’ve had a fabulous time, and are looking forward to getting back to Broome tomorrow, and then Fitzroy Crossing on Tuesday. I’m not sure we’d actively tour Sydney again, but the Blue Mountains and beyond hold a lot of time for us, I’m sure. As for Melbourne, we pretty much fell in love with the city! Bring on another term of school before our next big adventure to Darwin and the Northern Territory.

Sydney on Saturday

An earlyish start this morning to tackle a restaurant I’ve been looking forward to for a while.  We have most of Bill Granger’s books, and find his recipes simple and stunningly nice.  We arrived just after 9:30am to his original Bills restaurant, and were pleasantly surprised to get a seat straight away.  I quickly decided I should have eggs, as it was what built his reputation in the first place.  Emma joined me in having Scrambled Eggs with Sourbread.  I also had mushrooms on the side, while Em had tomato and bacon.  Simon ordered banana hotcakes (which looked brilliant).  The eggs didn’t disappoint – really silky and unlike any other scrambled eggs I’ve had before.  They rocked.
From Bills, the three of us walked back towards town, through Hyde Park and the Botanic Gardens towards the mainstay of Sydney tourism – Circular Quay.  We completed the mandatory viewing of the Opera House and the across the river look of the Harbour Bridge, before wandering around the Quay and underneath the Bridge itself.  It really is an enormous structure, and you can understand why it is marvelled at.  The pure height it sits off the water level, and the span it completes without supporting beams running through the water are amazing.  It wasn’t amazing enough for us to climb to the top, however!
Time for some shopping.  With promises of an enormous Westfield shopping centre in Bondi, we rushed to the train station, bought our ticket, rushed down the 155 flights of stairs (or so it seemed) and… trains to Bondi cancelled for the weekend due to track work.  Damn!  Finding the corresponding bus took an age, and by the time we got to Bondi Junction, we were pretty exhausted.  The place is huge though.  Taking up two entire blocks, there are also six levels on each block.  It was big.  We took the time to do some much-needed clothes shopping to get us through the rest of the year at work, I bought Emma’s birthday presents, and we caught the bus all the way home, again being quite frustrated at the lack of signage provided as to where to catch the “train-bus”.
Tomorrow we’re planning on hiring a car and tackling some Blue Mountains action, under Simon’s guidance.  To be honest, we’re quite glad, as we’re slightly let down by the “touristy” things here, as opposed to Melbourne’s more natural style of things.  Mind you, I can’t complain about the Sydney food… I’ve had some of the best meals ever in just 24 hours!  With hopefully more good food to come tonight…

Sydney on Friday

Our plane trip from Melbourne to Sydney went smoothly… if you blinked, you would have missed it – about 10 minutes after finishing the ascent, the captain announced we were beginning our descent!  An hour trip overall.

The first thing we noticed about Sydney was that the city’s drivers aren’t quite as laid back as Melbourne’s – our taxi driver managed to beep and abuse before we had even left the airport.  He was quite engaging, however, even if he did have a disturbing habit of constantly creeping at red lights, ensuring we were regularly in the middle of the intersection before the light went green.
Our hotel was a step up in class from our Melbourne one.  We had booked into an executive suite on Albion St in Surry Hills – king-size bed, living area and huge flat-screen TV.  What a shame we will spend most of our time exploring, not hiding in our room!
A good 90 seconds after arriving in our new room, we were out again, ready to explore.  Walking out, we quickly discovered we were in the middle of Chinatown.  We stumbled across Paddy’s Markets, and being around lunchtime, chose a little curry place.  I had a simple (and mild) lamb curry with naan bread, and Em had a vegetable curry.  Both were fabulous.
Having left the hotel room so quickly, we had no idea where we actually were.   Using the mobile WhereIs, we were pleasantly surprised to discover we were only about 2 minutes from Darling Harbour.  Darling Harbour is interesting – initially, it appears there is plenty to do, but there is that real contrived “touristy” thing happening here.  The idea of having an Australian Wildlife Park crammed onto a pier seemed to smack of inappropriateness.  The Aquarium next door was more at home in the area, but the advertising of “joint-pass” tickets for “only” $68 per person sent us packing.
Instead, we shot across the harbour, walking underneath the monorail, and visited the National Maritime Museum.  We began with the submarine and destroyer walks – HMAS Onslow and HMAS Vampire respectively.  The submarine was surreal.  So small, so thoughtfully designed to contain so many people, it really would take a special person to serve on one.  In the main control room, nine of us crammed in tight as a tour guide informed us that on a normal operations day, 22 men would man the same space.  The HMAS Onslow spent its life listening and following Russian submarines around the Arctic Ice, obviously listening for either the grumblings of a Cold War or the first grunts of Anna Kournikova.  Like Anna Kournikova, the HMAS Onslow never fired a shot in anger during its career.
HMAS Vampire was also a stunning walk.  Built in the 1950’s and decommissioned in 1998 (I think), there are still remnants of the last crew’s activities, like sports rosters, and graffiti in the mess.
The main part of the Maritime Museum was also full of interesting history – the obvious things like Sydney to Hobart memorabilia, First Fleet information and famous passengers cruiseliners were on display, but the highlight for us was the Summers of Australia exhibition, which was walls upon walls of colour photos from the 1950s to 1970s, highlighting Australians affinity with water.  There were images from all around Australia – including 1960s golf in Port Hedland!
We finished off our day hanging around the habour until Simon finished work.  We met up with him and his workmates at a bar called The Watershed, which had a stunning view of the city skyline – and Little Creatures on tap!  Simon’s workmates seemed cool, although they spent most of the time trying to extract embarrassing “family secrets” out of Emma.  As always, Emma was able to put up the brick wall and maintain a code of silence.  I think this will only encourage Andrew, Simon’s boss, to just make up embarrassing stories instead.
We finished off at a charming little restaurant near our hotel called Mint.  Simon recommended it highly, and he wasn’t wrong.  With Moroccan themes, Emma and I both tackled a lamb dish which was brilliant, while Simon’s dish also looked yum.  Dessert was probably the highlight, with all of us ordering pistachio and orange icecream, with a little baklava on the side.
A good start for Sydney!

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