Tag: Bali

Bali (Ubud) – A Family Holiday

6-12 July 2014

This was the trip that was originally planned for Christmas and New Year, leaving Perth on Boxing Day 2014. We postponed it until July, with the little ones’ passports proving a hold up that saw the cost of air fares getting out of hand. In the end, the delay proved beneficial, with the extra six months being good for all four kids, the older two getting more out of their first visit abroad and the younger two being up and about on two feet.

The trip to the airport was complicated by heavy rain, making the juggling of cars and luggage between long term parking and Terminal 2 slightly harder than it should have been. Check-in went without a hitch and we thought we had the whole thing down pat until we hit immigration. Joy’s passport had been chewed in one corner, courtesy one of the little dogs. It had passed scrutiny on a previous trip to Singapore but failed the test this time. After some negotiations with the officials, they agreed not to phone DFAT, who, according to them, would order the passport confiscated, meaning that Joy could not go. We were all rather concerned but having agreed that the risk was Joy’s, they allowed her to take the offending document on the promise of having it replaced on her return. The worry was that Indonesia would also pick up on it and refuse entry.

12The wait in departure was short and the kids were kept amused by the many planes and trucks scooting around. We boarded without trouble and scored a bonus spare seat next to Christine, giving us a bit of flexibility with the kids’ seating.

The flight itself was easier than we had thought it would be with no real issues, other than the terrible food. We had pre-ordered to ensure we got something reasonable but the meals were very poor and there appeared to be better fare available on the menu.

Once in Denpasar, we were very glad that we had arranged a VIP service to meet us and process us through immigration. This service gets mixed review on the internet, with many claiming it is a waste of money and unnecessary but with four children and loads of luggage, we found it wonderful and worth the money. We were greeted, our passports collected, along with the Visa on Arrival payment. After a quick check to confirm our pictures matched faces, we walked through immigration and collected baggage before the rest of the crowd arrived. By the time we reached our hired mini bus, the passports were processed and returned. So easy.

It was dark by the time we arrived in Ubud and the kids showing signs of unravelling. We threw everything into our four rooms and hit the restaurant for dinner. This was a signal for the kids to either start crying or behaving like animals, depending on their level of sleep deprivation. Still, we had arrived and there was cold beer in abundance so all was not lost.

6We stayed at the Cendana Resort and Spa in Monkey Forest Rd, Ubud. It proved to be an excellent choice for this holiday, with four specially selected ground floor adjoining rooms with good sized balconies and a lovely grassed area out front. Each room had two queen sized beds and cots were supplied for the youngest two. The restaurant was basic but cheap and the two pools, one salt and one fresh, proved a hit with all four kids. There were plenty of places to explore and walk with the children, visiting the birds (hill mynahs with amazing mimicry), the koi carp pool or the “magic steps” down to the spa area.Bali14-7

After a couple of meal times punctuated with crying, screaming or temper tantrums, the children settled into a routine and finding a restaurant for a family meal became a pleasure. Christine had found an excellent baby gear hire service and had two high chairs and a pusher delivered to make life easy. We got a few amused looks from other tourists as we trooped down Monkey Forest Rd carrying the two bright green high chairs in search of a good eatery. We had very few duds, with most places serving up a standard that at least is acceptable.

The Child Whisperer

The Child Whisperer

One place that impressed everyone was the Cafe Wayan and Bakery. It fully deserves its 4.5 Star rating on Trip Advisor, with ambience plus, excellent food and wonderful staff. We organised a “birthday” lunch for Christine, seeing as we will be away from the family on her 60th at the end of the month. The restaurant turned on the charm in a big way, organising an amazing cake, which was presented by a procession of singing staff. One waiter was a “child whisperer”, proving his skills by picking up both Kelsie and Ashton without causing the usual screaming fit. He really had the knack, creating origami mice out of table napkins and cranes out of brochures. All this and a menu to die for, with the Nasi Campur declared the pick of the dishes, although the crispy duck challenged it for top spot.

Another interesting meal was at a small place opposite the entrance to Cendana. We wandered down a lane to find an outdoor establishment that looked as though it was closed for the night. A lone attendant assured us that they were open so we set up the high chairs and settled in to choose from the menu. Of course, beers were ordered first, then a variety of dishes from the reasonably varied selection. The lone guy hurried away and soon there was a bit of banging and crashing from the kitchen. Then, he was seen scurrying away into the night, to return with some beer, probably from a nearby 7 Eleven. The wait continued and we had to find some ways to amuse the kids, who were showing signs of having a turn. There was more banging and crashing until eventually, nearly an hour after ordering, the lone man emerged to serve up. He was the maitre d’, the barman, the waiter, chef and the cashier all in one. Fortunately, he was good at his jobs and the food was wonderful and cheap. We left a good tip so he was rewarded for his efforts.

9A trip to the Monkey Forest was fun. This is a place that is probably best avoided, but with care, can provide a fun excursion. The monkeys, Balinese Long tailed Macaques, are everywhere and always looking for an easy feed. Buying a bunch of bananas at the entrance absolutely ensures that the monkeys will pay you full attention. Apparently, they also love spring water. We watched one young Japanese girl being attacked by two small monkeys, climbing all over her until she surrendered the bottle. Her friends filmed the incident so she could enjoy it later. One friend came undone when a monkey took a liking to his awful woven hat with bright blue trimmings and climbed up to get it, along with his glasses. The girl who had been attacked earlier got her revenge by filming the attack on her friend with the ugly hat. We just kept our hands to ourselves, hid everything of interest and kept a careful watch on the children.8

As always happens, by the time came to leave, the kids had settled into routines and life was pretty sweet. Breakfasts ran like clockwork, the day was a regimen of swimming, walking, shopping and dining. We even managed a few night get togethers after the children were bedded down.

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We absolutely loved our trip. It was a wonderful opportunity to catch up with the family experiences that we miss by being away so much. Ben and Kelsie got so much out of the experience, gaining in confidence and questioning everything. Lucas and Ashton, the two babes, had a ball, with so many people around to give them plenty of attention. Mind you, none of us could compete with Mum. Hopefully, the kids managed a degree of relaxation, something that is so very hard with a couple of small kids. Joy and Trevor both suffered from slow curing flus carried with them from Australia but, amazingly, none of our group of twelve suffered from the dreaded Bali Belly. Christine and I also really enjoyed the opportunity to spend some quality time with John and Alison, the other parents, something we always promise to do but so often miss out on. As parents of this whole brood, we can be truly proud.

 

The Magic Steps

The Magic Steps

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iPads keep the little ones quiet.

iPads keep the little ones quiet.

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Who is walking who?

Who is walking who?

Once home, we wasted little time in getting up to Dowerin to ready the house for hosting exhibitors at the Dowerin Field Days (27-28 August). Then its fly back to Sydney to pick up Sandpiper and resume our travels northwards, hopefully to find some warmth.

 

 

 

 

 

Bali – A Quick Trip Feb 2013

We came to Bali on a whim, trying to locate some suitable accommodation in Ubud for a planned family trip next Christmas. We had picked out a good spot on an earlier trip in 2011 but had somehow lost the details and even the trusty Internet had failed to reveal the place. Still, it is a hell of an excuse to get away. A quick two nights in Ubud was largely to seek accommodation. This was followed by three nights in Kuta, a return to the famed location after at least twenty years and a couple of nights in Sanur, another beachfront location that we had never visited before.

Having a Driver

We had organised with Dewar Putra, a driver from Ubud, to pick us up from the airport. We had used Dewar before and had his email address. Having someone who can speak reasonable English and is a really careful driver is an absolute bonus. While things can be done much cheaper by negotiating with hotels or haggling over taxis, the luxury of having someone roll up on schedule, wait when required and feed us lots of interesting insights into life in Bali is well worth the bit of extra. Four or five days of driving over the week adds up to around the same as a taxi to and from Perth Airport so it all needs to be put into perspective. The sad thing is, that living off tourism in Bali can be a tough life. Once the short Christmas rush is over, Ubud goes very quiet. Kuta will rock on for a while but a lot of the work dries up. We were Dewar’s only work for two weeks and he had the bank on his back for payments on the car. Since we saw him last, he has bought a new car in the hope of attracting better and more jobs but if there are no tourists, there is no work. It is a matter of surviving until the June-August busy time.

Finding a Hotel

Going from hotel to hotel and inspecting rooms etc is actually a lot of fun, especially during a down-time, when everyone is very keen to get business. We saw some really lovely spots on the outskirts of Ubud, quiet hideaways set in gardens that would grace any lifestyle magazine. In the end, we opted for the Cendana Resort and Spa in Monkey Forest Road to give access to lots of good cheap eats and markets as well as great grounds and nice rooms. They have four rooms in a row that will suit our needs very well.

Relaxing in Monkey Forest Rd, Ubud

Relaxing in Monkey Forest Rd, Ubud

 

The Y Resort, Ubud

The Y Resort, Ubud

 

Kuta

We were last in Kuta back in the early 90s. The bombings did put us off somewhat but then we had already decided that there were nicer places to go than Kuta anyway so we haven’t been back for ages. Just to catch up, we stayed at the White Rose, right behind the Bombing Memorial opposite Poppies Lane. The Memorial is quite moving and it seems as though there are a few ghosts in the area. Unfortunately, its main use seems to be as a prop for Japanese tourists to stand and do funny poses but then you get that.

The streets, the traffic, the bars, the touts, the loud music, the rubbish, the smells, the drunks; all is Kuta.

“Massage Madam???”

“You look now, Boss?”

“G’Day Mate. You Aussie?”

The sign on the gate at our hotel says “No BB Guns. No Fireworks”.

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The Bombing Memorial, Jalan Legian, Kuta.

I hate being called Boss in Bali. Having spent some time in Aboriginal communities once run as Missions by the Catholic Church, the term has some overtones that smack of sub-servience and racism. I hate to think that I am “Boss” when having the privilege of visiting someone else’s country, but I am probably stating a minority opinion here.

We did give one place down Poppies Lane a bit of repeat business, having a hair cut, a massage each and Christine had two lots of nails done. They were a fun crew and never stopped trying to find ways for us to spend more. “Pedicure Mama?” or “Shave your beard Boss?”

Kuta Beach

Kuta Beach

The White Rose is a wonderful hotel/resort beautifully located right in the heart of Kuta. Being a block back from the beach, the rates are affordable. The grounds are expansive and beautiful and we spent a lot of time just lounging by the pool. The only real down-side was the fact that we could hear every cough, fart and loo flush from the neighbours but then, I guess they could hear ours. The three young girls across the way kept us awake one night with their festivities, which got louder as the alcohol levels rose. Another group produced some worrying female screaming noises at around 2am. Kept to a reasonable level, such goings on a usually an entertainment.

That’s it! We’ve been back to Kuta and don’t have to go again.

Sanur

I don’t know why we’ve never been to Sanur. I had heard it described as quieter, more up=market and more expensive than Kuta. True, but not ridiculously so.

We loved Sanur. Any place where it is safe to ride around all day on a bike is good (except Rottnest). The 5km beachfront cycleway is fantastic. A leisurely ride down Jalan Danau Tamblingan is relaxing and interesting. Want nightlife and shopping? Go elsewhere. Want lots of good eateries and relaxation? Go to Sanur. We found budget accommodation and food in abundance without the continual harassment that one endures in Kuta. People are friendly and helpful. The beaches were mostly clean and well shaded. We will be back.

Sanur Beach

Sanur Beach

 

More Sanur Beach

More Sanur Beach

 

Checking a big menu.

Checking a big menu.

 

 

Summary

Flew Perth – Denpasar with Air Asia. Very tight seating with no services included.

Flew Denpasar – Perth with Virgin. Better seats but no services included.

Ubud – stayed at Y Resort. Cheap at $50/night but on the outskirts. Used a shuttle to get to Central Ubud. Pool too dirty to swim in and restaurant too dear. Not recommended.

Kuta – stayed at the White Rose at approx $50/night for upstairs room. A lovely hotel, although showing signs of needing maintenance. Great pool area and a wonderful breakfast. Top location.

Sanur – stayed at Puri Sading at $50/night for an upstairs roomz. This is a wonderful small hotel with gorgeous gardens and a lovely pool. The rooms were very comfortable. The breakfast was very basic, as was the restaurant but pool-side snacks and beer was as cheap as anywhere on the street. We’d go back.

 

 

 

Ubud

We spent 4 nights in Ubud, having travelled over from Lombok via air. We had arranged a pickup from Denpasar, a useful move because the price is set at 25,000Rp by the Ubud tourism group anyway and it means we didn’t have to deal with the taxi touts out the front. It took about an hour to Ubud and we were pleased to see that Bali has progressed somewhat since our last visit (which was probably 20 years ago).

We checked into the Sri Bungalows, happy with the standard of the rooms and delighted with the gardens and surrounds. The rooms are arranged in blocks of 4, 2 up 2 down and are well appointed, although the absence of a TV is rather strange. We had enough time in the afternoon for a walk up and down Monkey Forest St, one of the main shopping and eating areas.

On our return after dinner, we found the room hot and stuffy because the AC was off, indicating that the power had failed. We restarted it, but 15 minutes later, the power failed again. It was only off for a minute, just enough to be a nuisance and to turn the AC off. On checking, we found it was only our block of 4 rooms effected. The staff suggested that we had too many things on charge (eg more than 1 laptop). However, it still happened when we had nothing at all plugged in. The prospect of waking up every 15 minutes to turn the AC back on didn’t appeal so we insisted on moving rooms.

The new room was bigger and better laid out so we were happy at first. However, once in bed, the appalling softness of the bed became apparent. We both thought we were going to roll out. I moved to the single bed and that helped a bit but we had a very bad night’s sleep and I woke with a sore back.

After breakfast at Sri Bungalows (basic but good), we set off to find a new hotel. The Internet suggested the Komenka but it was too pricey for us. In the end, chose the Cinta Grill and Inn, swayed by the magnificent room right on the pool deck and the friendliness of the staff. This became our home for the next three nights and we loved every minute, but most especially the amazing breakfasts.

A rather than the usual breakfast buffet included with hotel stays, Cinta allows a choice off the Al-a-carte menu. Each offering is a culinary creation. Eggs benedict are presented on a choice of home baked muffins or toasted sough-dough bread and the choice is always very difficult. Juices are freshly squeezed and such delicacies as black rice pudding or special granola and yoghurt tempt. A lot of the local tours start off with an early pick-up and breakfast at Kintamani overlooking the volcano but that just means you have to have two breakfasts because nothing would enduce us to skip the one at Cinta.

One day, we took a cycling tour with Jegeg Bali Bike Tours (www.jegegbalicycling.com)

Lombok

We flew into Lombok on Nov 28th, leaving Perth the night before and flying via Singapore. This is definitely NOT a preferred option, the whole trip taking around 25 hours, only 4 of which could really be counted as sleep. However, circumstances meant that we already had tickets to Singapore so we elected to use them, then fly Air Asia to Denpasar and Lion Air to Lombok. There is only one airline flying direct from Singapore to Lombok (Silk Air) but the cost is prohibitive.

All in all, the trip could have been worse but we vowed never to do such a silly thing again (may have vowed that before). The worst part of all was the drive on landing in Lombok. A new airport has been built in the South of Lombok, replacing the old one that was closer to the West Coast area of Sengiggi. Apparently, this was done after the Saudis promised to pour huge investments into the Southern beaches around Kuta Lombok on the condition of a relocated airport. So far, the Saudis have failed to materialise and the promised transport infrastructure remains incomplete. This leaves a 90 minute trip along narrow bumpy roads with the ever present threat of killing cyclists, motor bike riders and pedestrians. We had 10 minutes added to our journey when the driver stopped to pray at a mosque.

By any standards, the villages and countryside we travelled through were primitive. Lombok is a long way behind Bali. As we approached the Sengiggi area, the road improved and, as we found later, the strip to the North of Sengiggi is in good condition. Our destination, The Beach Club, was a most welcome sight.

Our friends, Mick and Lesley, were a day in front of us and well entrenched at the bar. We wasted no time in joining them and met the owners and hosts, Glenn and Dee. The whole place screams “hospitality”. We had one of only four beautifully appointed Balinese style bungalows, with private verandah and semi-outdoor ensuite facilities. The pool is a mere 10 metres away and the beach around 50 metres. Shaded rest areas with lounges are dotted around and there are tables right down onto the beach itself.

The staff is amazing. Nothing seems to be too much trouble and service is always with a smile or a shared joke. We felt like friends rather than guests. Every time we asked for something a little different, it was remembered and became the norm. The service makes anything back in Perth look embarrassing (but then that’s not hard).

Overall, we found The Beach Club to be the most comfortable and pleasant place we have ever stayed in. Add amazing value for money it’s a winner. The bungalows seem to work out at around $A60 a night. For two people eating all  meals, except two over four days, and a steady supply of drinks, the extras came to around $A220, which included an airport transfer.

Lombok itself, though pretty with some spectacular coastal scenery, does not stand out above other SE Asian beach resorts. Sengiggi itself is badly in need of some maintenance money. Most footpaths are broken up or non-existent. Drainage is so bad that walking around after a heavy downpour is difficult. Mataram holds few attractions for the tourist, apart from the one visit to have a look. We found car travel around the island to be a mostly unpleasant experience so there is little incentive to journey off to the waterfalls in the far North or down South to Kuta Lombok. However, the sheer majesty of the views along the Sengiggi coast, or the incredible scenery as rain storms obscure parts of the coastal mountains makes up for many shortcomings. The place “feels” beautiful. At times, the sight of a towering volcano poking through the clouds on Bali, across the Lombok Strait, is breathtaking.

 

The “Gillis” is a small group of 3 tiny islands in the North-West. The “pristine corals” and “unspoilt beaches” are often written about but that is like calling Burswood a Wilderness Park. Sure, the Gillis make an interesting day trip and are probably a great place to stay for 3 or 4 nights to chill out but if you are expecting unspoilt nature be prepared for a disappointment. Blasting of coral reefs has destroyed much of the marine environment. Fish life is scarce (by Australian standards) and the variety of coral life does not compare with any spot in the Andaman Sea.

We paid 600,000Rp (about $A60) for 4 of us to get transport to the North West then hire a boat for the day to take us snorkelling, see the islands and drop off on a beach for lunch. This is a similar price to what is available in Phi Phi or Langkawi. However, we found that they added in a scuba diver and the whole day revolved around him, with us being an afterthought. If there are good snorkelling spots, we didn’t see them. The lunch was very ordinary at best and when the bill came, we found the boat skipper had ordered a meal on us. We refused to pay. It seems that our experience is not unusual. The scuba diver said he booked a boat the previous day for his exclusive use and it ended up full of people. To make matters worse, the English speaking guide left at Gilli Trawangan so we really couldn’t complain very effectively. On the plus side, the water was wonderfully warm and the visibility was 30metres plus.

We have had a fantastic time on Lombok, made so much better by the terrific company of Mick and Lesley. As I write, we are staying on for an extra day while Mick and Les fly home and back to work. The Beach Club is already missing Lesley’s laughter.

Would we come back? Absolutely! And we’ll stay at The Beach Club. Thanks Glenn, Dee and all the great staff.

  

 

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