Category: Asia (Page 4 of 6)

Ninh Binh – Tam Coc

March 18, 2012 / terry

With Sunday being an official day off work from our PVI project, Christine and I organised to hire a bus and travel South to Ninh Binh, a trip of about an hour.We were only able to get a bus for the morning, Sunday being a very big day for weddings and the driver having already booked up an afternoon’s work. Ninh Ninh is a provincial city of around 50,000 and, like Phu Ly, is on Highway 1A and the main North-South rail link. We ended up with a group of 21, including Moon, one of our interpreters.

The most popular attraction around Ninh Binh is Tam Coc which translates as “Three Caves”. Tourist promotions often refer to Tam Coc as Halong Bay on Rice Paddies as the area abounds with wonderful towering limestone kasts jutting magnificently out from a sea of green rice paddies. The scenery is spectacular, and the best way to view it is by small rowboat. A steady stream of boats ply the narrow waterway that weaves its way through several kilometers of rice fields and through three caves, the longest of which is 127m long. Unfortunately, it was very misty when we went, even to the point of light drizzle. In places, the mist pouring through the breathtaking ravines was beautiful but in other places the reduced visibility spoiled the scenery somewhat.

With Moon’s help, we bought tickets for all the group and were then herded two at a time onto the tiny rowing boats, each with a rower at the rear and another paddler nearer the front. They will allow up to 4 Vietnamese passengers in the boats but only two Europeans; a combination of our bulk and our ability to pay. The rowers, propel the craft with their feet, using a unique action with legs and feet to move the oars in a constant rowing action. The front paddlers assist and also perform the function of “seller of embroidery”, a local handicraft. Along the way, various hawker boats approach and harrass, the camera people with their Nikons taking happy snaps that will be aggressively sold at the end of the trip. At the turn around point, refreshment boats get very insistent about buying their wares, either for the passengers or the rowers. It is hawker heaven. We had a couple of school students as rowers, a young girl aged 17 and her brother aged 12. He did not contribute his fair share of the work and we ended up paddling for a large part of the trip. The boy did his part by selling Christine an embroidered table cloth. At the end, we gave them both a tip, not through choice, but rather sheer pressure. It is more a case of tip or be “tipped”.

After sampling a few delights from some food stalls in the market, we headed back along Highway 1A to Phu Ly. By this time, the traffic was terrible, with much of the road being under reconstruction and large tour buses weaving dangerously in and out of the trucks and motorbikes. Fortunately, our driver is steady and careful and gave us little cause to panic. All in all a very touristy day out but loads of fun.

Vietnam before Our PVI Project

March 15, 2012 / terry

Our annual building project with the team fro “Project Vietnam” was due to start on 10 March so we flew out of Perth on the 3rd, for an overnight stop in Kuala Lumpur then on to Ho Chi Minh City. THis would give us a week in Vietnam before the work started.

We made an early start, getting up to the alarm at 3:15 and meeting a booked taxi out the front at 4:00. The taxi was late, leaving us to wonder why we have to pay a booking fee even when the service is not supplied. We were around 15 minutes later to the airport than planned and were greeted by a huge line at the baggage check-in. However, there was only a very short queue at the regular check-in counter so those people who had not done their own web check had an advantage. The line grew steadily behind us and the processing was so slow that by the time our bags were in, we had no time for breakfast and had to go straight through to immigration. Here the line was equally long. Once processed and scanned for dangerous goods, we made it to the departure area with just enough time for a cup of tea and maybe a bite to eat. The same long line awaited, moving incredibly slowly due to the fact that the counter was maned by only two workers and the coffee machine seemed incapable of creating more than 1 drink per minute. Some poor souls had to queue for 15 minutes just to buy a bottle of water. It is a real pleasure to be going overseas and escape from the dreadful standards of service that we are subjected to in Perth. We pay more than anyone else in the World for food and drink yet the staff at food outlets seem to be incapable of providing any form of service. It’s embarrassing.

Once in Kuala Lumpur, we had the afternoon and evening to spare so we caught a shuttle bus into the city and relaxed at our favourite haunt, Restoran Venny. The beer and food has not changed.

Ho Chi Minh City

We gave ourselves 2 nights in HCMC, staying at the iPeace Hotel in the Pham Ngu Lao area. This is the backpackers street and small hotels, bars and restaurants abound. The iPeace is well situated in Hem 28, an alley commonly called “mini-hotel alley”.

They certainly are “mini” with most being only a single room wide and 5 to 7 storeys high. The iPeace is comfortable and cheap. Right next door is the Vietnamese Aroma Cafe, which serves such great food at ridiculously cheap prices. We tend to eat there a lot.

View from the Reunification Palace

Besides getting in the required relaxation, we took some long walks, braving the appalling traffic conditions and just using the “slow and steady” technique when crossing the congested streets. We toured the “Reunification Palace”, a modern day palace set in wonderful gardens right in the heart of Saigon. The original palace was built by the French in 1863 but it was bombed during an attempted coup in 1962 and rebuilt in a more modern style. It was the site of the formal end to the Vietnam War when two North Vietnamese tanks crashed through the front gate. The building is quite wonderful, both for the grand architecture and the amazing furniture in the many conference rooms and reception areas. The building still gets used today for formal matters of state.

Iced Coffee in the Dong Khoi

From there, we made our way through to the Dong Khoi area, which is the rich and ritzy part of Saigon. In only a couple of blocks, the traffic eases, people largely obey traffic lights and the shops get bigger and a lot more expensive. We stopped at a rather flash cafe for an iced coffee. In Vietnam, this is not made with milk as in Australia but with a hit of sweet condensed milk, a small cup of very strong Vietnamese coffee over a tall glass of crushed ice and cold water. It is very refreshing. Resuming our walk, we came across a street vendor on a corner cooking over a tiny charcoal burner. He would place round rice-paper sheets on an open grill, coat them with a very finely diced vegetable mix infused with spices. As it began to cook, he cracked a quail’s egg into the middle and folded it over into a taco-like thing. We paid our 5000VD each (25c) and wandered away munching on a piece of gastronomic heaven.

Notre Dame Cathedral, Dong Khoi

Further down Dong Khoi St, we paused for a while to get our bearings. Christine became engaged with a street vendor selling both pirated books and the fact that he was crippled from polio, had 19 children to feed and had not had a job in 20 years. I consulted the Google Maps on the iPhone and sat down on a low wall to study it. I was soon interrupted by a well dressed man in a black suit who had come out of the Versace store nearby to tell me not to sit on the low wall and to move on. My appearance had obviously upset the ambiance of the district. I felt like part of a scene out of Pretty Woman and had visions of walking into the Versace store, flashing huge wads of dollars and giving them the finger. Instead, we moved on as instructed.

Near Ben Than market, Central Saigon

We made it back to out hotel area with only the one beer stop and a parcel of dodgy DVDs from a market. We had rest of the afternoon to snooze, read and watch Adam Sandler do the usual silly things on Star Movies. For dinner, we went next door to the Aroma and ordered a Soup Hot Pot, with squid, prawns, fish, beef and veges. This is a local version of a “Steam Boat” where you cook your own ingredients in a delicious broth. It was a wonderful meal and heaps of fun to boot.

Hoi An

It is very hard to come back to Vietnam and not stay for a while in our beloved Hoi An. This trip, we gave ourselves 4 nights, flying from HCMC via Danang. The Greenfield Hotel sent a car to pick us up (no charge) and drive the 40km South to Hoi An. As always, we were greeted warmly by the regular staff, who always remember us from past trips. In particular, our friend Phan Thi Phuong was most welcoming, giving Christine a big hug. She was newly pregnant when we last saw her, and now she has only just come back to work. Her new daughter is 4 months old.

We found that we had only booked a standard room, which was comfortable but we wanted a bit more space for a 4 night stay so we re-organised rooms a bit and settled in. Hoi An and the Greenfield seemed busier than last year, probably because the weather was so pleasant, with high 20s most days.

Cua Dai Beach, Hoi An

The weather was warm enough for swimming and we spent a lovely morning at Cua Dai beach. Rather than slum it with the masses and put up with the beach hawkers, we paid our 100,000VD ($5) and rented a beach couch at the Hoi An Resort private beach. It was worth the money.

We spent another day at Cham Island for snorkelling and swimming.We took a fast speed boat over the 18km crossing in relatively calm conditions and looking forward to some great snorkelling over what was described as pristine coral. Unfortunately, a lot of the time was spent wandering around the island village, which is rather primitive and lacking in attractions, or simply waiting on piers for a boat.

Fast Boat to Cham Island

Eventually, we did arrive at the snorkelling area, only to find the masks and snorkels were very old and very grubby. The coral was largely dead and the fish life restricted to a few parrot fish and small damsel fish. Even the prospect of a beachside seafood lunch didn’t brighten the day too much. It was rather ordinary fare and Christine got a touch of “belly” that evening after trying the seafood hotpot (I thought it looked funny).

Cham Island, with mist rolling down the mountains.

Another strange tour we took was a “Romantic Sunset Dinner Cruise”. It was International Women’s Day so I guess that scored me points. Despite the romantic title of the cruise, we thought it might be a good chance to meet a few others, relax over dinner and get some wonderful photos of the sunsets that Hoi An is famous for. Fortunately, the food was excellent because the thick haze covered the sun, the cruise took us on a stretch of river we have been on before and even more bizarre, we were the only ones on a boat that catered for 20. There seemed to be about 6 crew so we felt somewhat strange sitting eating our meal all alone. The girl in charge seemed to think we needed company so she spent a lot of time talking to us. We could only understand 50% of what she said but we did have some fun with some English/Vietnamese lessons. There’s romantic and “romantic”.

The highlight of Hoi An was our discovery of the Thuan Y Restaurant set on the wharf between the Japanese Bridge and the markets. This wonderful establishment is owned and run by an extended family of cousins, aunts and grandmothers. Everyone was very friendly and we loved the chats when some of the family members would sit down with us. Christine took great delight in a little boy (around 8 months old)

Christine and "King"

nick-named “King”. They serve the 4 Hoi An Specialties; Cao Lau with thick rice noodles in a heavy broth and topped with deep fried rice paper squares;Fried Wontons made and served flat and topped with a spicy vegetable mix; Banh Xeo pancakes made with corn meal filled with bean sprouts and wrapped in rice paper and “White Rose”, a gelatinous rice mix set in a tiny bowl and topped with charred onion and peanut. All are wonderful and go down very well with a glass of local fresh beer (4000VD or 20c). We spent a lot of time there just chatting and watching. Sometimes, a couple of tourists would stop to read the menu at the front, so I would jump into maitre’d mode and lead them through the best dishes. I think I had 100% succes rate at getting new customers in.

The best part of Hoi An remains the simple street wander, whether by foot or bicycle. Electric bikes are popular here and although the motorbike is common, the sight of a couple of Vietnamese girls wearing traditional dress and gliding silently through ancient streets is worth coming back for. In most Asian tourist areas, nightfall brings chaos and noise. In Hoi An, the pace of life slows after dark and a walk back to the hotel after a wonderful meal is peaceful and relaxing. We love it.

Hoi An at night.

From Hoi An, it is on to Hanoi to meet the rest of the 33 strong team from Project Vietnam and to travel South to Phu Ly for this year’s project.

Hoi An wharf area

The negotiation

Sentosa, Singapore

December 17, 2011 / terry

Sentosa Island, Singapore. Originally called Pulau Blakang Mati (Island of Death from Behind), this tiny island had been a British Naval Fortress, home of the British forces in Singapore and a powerful defence against attack from the Straits of Malacca. Unfortunately, it proved to be woefully ineffective against the land-based invasion the Japanese launched in 1941.

In the 1970s, the island was renamed Sentosa and turned into a theme park style resort, providing a playground for Singaporeans and a worthwhile tourist attraction. It was Singapore’s glamour piece for 20 years or more, before becoming worn out and somewhat “old hat” when stacked up against other attractions around the city.

However, Sentosa has recently undergone a major revamp and has been reborn as a somewhat more upmarket location. Attractions include a two-kilometre long sheltered beach, Fort Siloso, two golf courses and two five-star hotels, and the Resorts World Sentosa, featuring the theme park Universal Studios Singapore.The old Sentosa had a small camping ground with a few grass-hut shelters for hire. The new Sentosa has a cluster of resort style hotels surrounded by fine dining outlets and chic coffee lounges.

We spent 3 nights at the new Mövenpick Hotel, part of the famous Swiss chain. We found a budget priced deal on the Internet some time back but even so the rate was a shock after the financial ease of Lombok and Bali. The hotel is only half complete, the new building being in operation while work on restoring the old British army barracks goes on. The rooms are spacious and beautifully appointed, right down to the espresso machine. The pool is 25 metre job with glass walls on 2 sides, giving a strange underwater view of swimmers. It is excellent for lap swimming but useless for a bit of subsurface hanky-panky.

Movement around the island is easy. At first, we used the monorail to go down to the nearby beach, until we realised that the monorail actually covers very easily walkable distances. The beach area also has some good cheap eateries. The beach, like everything on Sentosa, is completely artificial, being made of imported white sand (purchased from Malaysia) and protected from the rougher waters of the Straits of Malacca by artificial islands and rock walls. The system works, making a very useable and comfortable beach.

We used the monorail for travelling to and from the mainland. It is about 900m across to Harbourfront and the fabulous VivoCity, the largest shopping mall in a nation made of giant shopping malls. The old monorail that used to service the island itself has gone, replaced by open buses but we tended to walk around much of the island area. Another wonderful new method of accessing Sentosa from the mainland is a covered walkway across the causeway. It includes a travellator and it is a lot of fun to travel on this at a brisk walk, covering the ground at what would be a good jogging speed but without the effort.

Most major attractions on the island are expensive. An amazing flying simulator where you can experience the sensation of flight in a column of very fast updraft air costs around $75. There seems no shortage of people prepared to pay over another $70 to tour around on a Segway scooter for an hour or $35 to ride a road luge down the hill, followed by a ski lift back to the top. A day of fun can cost a lot, although some of the all day package sets make good sense. We avoided all, mostly because we have done these or similar things before but also because we prefer to spend our dollars elsewhere. There is so much to do that is free. As hotel guests, we have unlimited free access to the island. Even so, access via the walkway only costs $2. One night, we watched an amazing mechanical and light presentation of a crane dance, set on the harbour front. Another night, we watched a laser light, fountain and musical production called “Song of the Sea” for $15, hardly breaking the bank, and providing a great night’s entertainment. All around, the scenery, lights, street theatre and demonstrations provide continual free entertainment. We also used the jogging track and fitness equipment provided down on the beach. We had a lot of fun just sitting around watching others. I think that at any vantage point on the island one can see at least three couples posing for photographs. Walking around was often made more difficult because of the need to avoid cutting across someone’s photo shoot. It is tourism to the max and heavily influenced by the Japanese packaged tour way of doing things. In short, it is like living in a fairy land 24 hours a day.

We did come to realise that a stay on Sentosa is best done during the week. On the weekend, the prices of all the attractions rises and the crowds become almost unmanageable. On Saturday, there was a huge pop concert and all-night beach party just down the road. It was timed to go through the night, with the last act playing 5-7am. We ended up going to sleep to the sound of festivities in the ballroom below us. In the morning, we were up early for a walk and to do a fitness circuit. On leaving the hotel, we found a world filled with the walking dead. There were hung-over people at every turn. At breakfast, many tables seemed to have young people just staring vacantly at a plate of food. Oh well! Been there, done that!

Despite the artificial nature of the island, there is enough remnant vegetation to give some insight into what Singapore must have been like before it was turned into one of the World’s great concrete jungles. Pockets of beautiful creeper-draped forest still exist in places and an early morning excursion will reveal some wonderful bird life and scurrying squirrels out and about. Beautiful butterflies and jewelled beetles are common but thankfully the mosquitoes that plagued the island with malaria early last century have departed.

With the Singapore MRT available just across the Sentosa bridge at Harbourfront, a stay on Sentosa is well worthwhile and adds a different dimension to staying in Singapore. We loved every minute of our 3 night stay and missed it when we moved over to a more conventional hotel in Lavender. By our standards, the price is high but we’ll keep an eye out for specials and promotions.

Ubud

December 10, 2011 / terry

We spent 4 nights in Ubud, having travelled over from Lombok via air. We had arranged a pickup from Denpasar, a useful move because the price is set at 25,000Rp by the Ubud tourism group anyway and it means we didn’t have to deal with the taxi touts out the front. It took about an hour to Ubud and we were pleased to see that Bali has progressed somewhat since our last visit (which was probably 20 years ago).

We checked into the Sri Bungalows, happy with the standard of the rooms and delighted with the gardens and surrounds. The rooms are arranged in blocks of 4, 2 up 2 down and are well appointed, although the absence of a TV is rather strange. We had enough time in the afternoon for a walk up and down Monkey Forest St, one of the main shopping and eating areas.

On our return after dinner, we found the room hot and stuffy because the AC was off, indicating that the power had failed. We restarted it, but 15 minutes later, the power failed again. It was only off for a minute, just enough to be a nuisance and to turn the AC off. On checking, we found it was only our block of 4 rooms effected. The staff suggested that we had too many things on charge (eg more than 1 laptop). However, it still happened when we had nothing at all plugged in. The prospect of waking up every 15 minutes to turn the AC back on didn’t appeal so we insisted on moving rooms.

The new room was bigger and better laid out so we were happy at first. However, once in bed, the appalling softness of the bed became apparent. We both thought we were going to roll out. I moved to the single bed and that helped a bit but we had a very bad night’s sleep and I woke with a sore back.

After breakfast at Sri Bungalows (basic but good), we set off to find a new hotel. The Internet suggested the Komenka but it was too pricey for us. In the end, chose the Cinta Grill and Inn, swayed by the magnificent room right on the pool deck and the friendliness of the staff. This became our home for the next three nights and we loved every minute, but most especially the amazing breakfasts.

A rather than the usual breakfast buffet included with hotel stays, Cinta allows a choice off the Al-a-carte menu. Each offering is a culinary creation. Eggs benedict are presented on a choice of home baked muffins or toasted sough-dough bread and the choice is always very difficult. Juices are freshly squeezed and such delicacies as black rice pudding or special granola and yoghurt tempt. A lot of the local tours start off with an early pick-up and breakfast at Kintamani overlooking the volcano but that just means you have to have two breakfasts because nothing would enduce us to skip the one at Cinta.

One day, we took a cycling tour with Jegeg Bali Bike Tours (www.jegegbalicycling.com)

Lombok

December 2, 2011 / terry

We flew into Lombok on Nov 28th, leaving Perth the night before and flying via Singapore. This is definitely NOT a preferred option, the whole trip taking around 25 hours, only 4 of which could really be counted as sleep. However, circumstances meant that we already had tickets to Singapore so we elected to use them, then fly Air Asia to Denpasar and Lion Air to Lombok. There is only one airline flying direct from Singapore to Lombok (Silk Air) but the cost is prohibitive.

All in all, the trip could have been worse but we vowed never to do such a silly thing again (may have vowed that before). The worst part of all was the drive on landing in Lombok. A new airport has been built in the South of Lombok, replacing the old one that was closer to the West Coast area of Sengiggi. Apparently, this was done after the Saudis promised to pour huge investments into the Southern beaches around Kuta Lombok on the condition of a relocated airport. So far, the Saudis have failed to materialise and the promised transport infrastructure remains incomplete. This leaves a 90 minute trip along narrow bumpy roads with the ever present threat of killing cyclists, motor bike riders and pedestrians. We had 10 minutes added to our journey when the driver stopped to pray at a mosque.

By any standards, the villages and countryside we travelled through were primitive. Lombok is a long way behind Bali. As we approached the Sengiggi area, the road improved and, as we found later, the strip to the North of Sengiggi is in good condition. Our destination, The Beach Club, was a most welcome sight.

Our friends, Mick and Lesley, were a day in front of us and well entrenched at the bar. We wasted no time in joining them and met the owners and hosts, Glenn and Dee. The whole place screams “hospitality”. We had one of only four beautifully appointed Balinese style bungalows, with private verandah and semi-outdoor ensuite facilities. The pool is a mere 10 metres away and the beach around 50 metres. Shaded rest areas with lounges are dotted around and there are tables right down onto the beach itself.

The staff is amazing. Nothing seems to be too much trouble and service is always with a smile or a shared joke. We felt like friends rather than guests. Every time we asked for something a little different, it was remembered and became the norm. The service makes anything back in Perth look embarrassing (but then that’s not hard).

Overall, we found The Beach Club to be the most comfortable and pleasant place we have ever stayed in. Add amazing value for money it’s a winner. The bungalows seem to work out at around $A60 a night. For two people eating all meals, except two over four days, and a steady supply of drinks, the extras came to around $A220, which included an airport transfer.

Lombok itself, though pretty with some spectacular coastal scenery, does not stand out above other SE Asian beach resorts. Sengiggi itself is badly in need of some maintenance money. Most footpaths are broken up or non-existent. Drainage is so bad that walking around after a heavy downpour is difficult. Mataram holds few attractions for the tourist, apart from the one visit to have a look. We found car travel around the island to be a mostly unpleasant experience so there is little incentive to journey off to the waterfalls in the far North or down South to Kuta Lombok. However, the sheer majesty of the views along the Sengiggi coast, or the incredible scenery as rain storms obscure parts of the coastal mountains makes up for many shortcomings. The place “feels” beautiful. At times, the sight of a towering volcano poking through the clouds on Bali, across the Lombok Strait, is breathtaking.

The “Gillis” is a small group of 3 tiny islands in the North-West. The “pristine corals” and “unspoilt beaches” are often written about but that is like calling Burswood a Wilderness Park. Sure, the Gillis make an interesting day trip and are probably a great place to stay for 3 or 4 nights to chill out but if you are expecting unspoilt nature be prepared for a disappointment. Blasting of coral reefs has destroyed much of the marine environment. Fish life is scarce (by Australian standards) and the variety of coral life does not compare with any spot in the Andaman Sea.

We paid 600,000Rp (about $A60) for 4 of us to get transport to the North West then hire a boat for the day to take us snorkelling, see the islands and drop off on a beach for lunch. This is a similar price to what is available in Phi Phi or Langkawi. However, we found that they added in a scuba diver and the whole day revolved around him, with us being an afterthought. If there are good snorkelling spots, we didn’t see them. The lunch was very ordinary at best and when the bill came, we found the boat skipper had ordered a meal on us. We refused to pay. It seems that our experience is not unusual. The scuba diver said he booked a boat the previous day for his exclusive use and it ended up full of people. To make matters worse, the English speaking guide left at Gilli Trawangan so we really couldn’t complain very effectively. On the plus side, the water was wonderfully warm and the visibility was 30metres plus.

We have had a fantastic time on Lombok, made so much better by the terrific company of Mick and Lesley. As I write, we are staying on for an extra day while Mick and Les fly home and back to work. The Beach Club is already missing Lesley’s laughter.

Would we come back? Absolutely! And we’ll stay at The Beach Club. Thanks Glenn, Dee and all the great staff.

Malacca – A Hidden Gem 31 March to 4 April 2011

April 3, 2011 / terry

Malacca doesn’t seem to feature too highly in the tourist brochures back in Australia but it is a place worthy of a visit and a stay. We usually see it promoted as a day trip from Singapore or Kuala Lumpur, the former needing a full day and half a night most of which is bus travel.

We caught a bus direct from the KL Low Cost Air Terminal that Air Asia uses. The trip was only $A15 return, took 90 minutes and was on a wonderful comfortable bus. There is not much to see along the way except endless oil palm plantations and traffic on the dual carriageway expressway but it certainly beats flying. The trip from Singapore ranges from $20 to $35 depending on the bus type and takes 3 hours. The security issues and waiting time at airports is now making bus travel very attractive.

We stayed at the Hallmark Inn, renovated and rebadged from the old Regal Hotel. At $40 a night, it was good value, having spacious rooms, good aircon, WiFi in rooms and a good bathroom. Breakfast was pretty ordinary stuff though and after weeks of eggs and baguettes in Vietnam, the chance to have something more was appealing. Unfortunately, most food was so bad that we made do with toast.

The secret to Malacca is its river. For centuries, the river has been the reason for the existence of the city, providing the hub of a thriving trading port from the 12th century onwards. Unfortunately for Malacca, the river mouth silted up in the late 19th Century and Malacca’s importance as a trading port fell away, it being unable to compete with nearby Penang and Singapore. Happily, much of the old city remains intact and the entire centre of the city is an historical precinct, with strict building codes governing what can and can’t be done. The river has been transformed from the smelly, polluted and unhealthy sewer that describes so many Asian city rivers to a relatively clean thoroughfare cutting through the city. Each side of the river is now bordered by stone and wooden walkways and one of the great delights is to stroll along these just taking in the charm of the old city. For us, the river provided the perfect route to access the central city easily. We had about a 2km walk following the river, with a sufficient number of cafes and restaurants along the way in case the exertion got the better of us.

The architectures in evidence reflect the Arab, Portuguese, Dutch, British, Chinese, Indian and Malay influences of Malacca’s past. For Australians, unused to buildings much over 100 years old, the old city is a treasure trove of relics. There seems to be a museum for everything and all are either ridiculously cheap or free. The Malays seem to be expert at museum displays, the quality of the dioramas being particularly exceptional. We spent far more time than we normally do in museums and especially enjoyed the Stradthuys, the official residence of the Dutch Governors built in 1650. The displays covered all the early years, from the days of the Arab Sultanate to the coming of the British. Even without the displays, the grandeur of the building is reason enough to visit. Throughout Malacca, evidence of the old fortifications can still be seen, the best example being A’Formosa, the main gate. This was built by the Portuguese in 1511 and was left intact when the British destroyed much of the wall in the 19th Century.

We also really loved the maritime Museum, delightfully set in a building designed as a replica of “Flor de la Mar”, a Portuguese trading vessel. The setting and quality of the displays makes a visit to this attraction 70 cents well spent.

Malacca seems to be having some issues with tourism and what is operating. A giant ferris wheel is still featured in most brochures, yet went out of business in 2009 and was dismantled. A 110m high tower with revolving viewing platform does operate and gives great views of the City and Straits of Malacca. We took a “Duck Tour” that drives along some of the streets then into the water. Unfortunately, it drives through the most boring part of the City and then avoids all the interesting parts of the water. Both of these activities are quite expensive by Malaysian standards. A monorail system has been built alongside the river, running for a mere 1.6km at present. This is meant as a serious solution to some transport issues in the city itself but so far, it has been plagued by operational faults and has hardly ever run. It seems to me that the answer lies in the river. The only transport on the river is a large fleet of river cruise boats that take tourists on a commentary tour. They have a few jetties set up along the river to get on and off but the cost prohibits their use as general transport. It’s cheaper to use taxis. If Malacca borrowed a few ideas from Bangkok and the “Klongs”, they could have a super transport system based on their wonderful river.

A big word of warning for anyone visiting Malacca. Walking the streets can be very dangerous. Despite the wonderful public works that have been completed around the river, everywhere else is terrible underfoot. The streets are generally narrow, so no side walks exist, of if they do, they are used for commercial purposes. The drains are open and deep. Some are covered with iron grills, but many are missing and one must keep a watchful eye downwards at all times. Even when there is a footpath, it can run out without warning, even half way across a bridge, leaving you with no option but to walk on the road. We got used to this in Vietnam but the new visitor to Malaysia could be in for a shock.

With it’s cultural mix, Malacca has a huge reputation as a place of great food. Restaurants abound, mostly very cheap and very good. The signature dishes seem to be mostly Nyonya, the Straits combination of Chinese and Malay. We tried the Chicken Rice Ball at A’Formosa Restaurant in Jonker Walk but weren’t quite sure what the fuss was about. OK but not startling. The Satay Celup, on the other hand, is fantastic. This concept is like a satay fondue. The diners purchase all manner of eats on skewers at 60 cents each, then self-cook them in a pot of boiling satay mix at the table. We had prawn, tofu, pork, mushroom, bok choy, chicken and lots of things we couldn’t identify. Oyster omelettes are very popular and cheap, as is the famous carrot cake (not a sweet at all but a turnip-like yam). Of course, everything needs to washed down with liberal amounts of Tiger Beer. One trend we noticed was that there seems to be a number of restaurants around that have a huge reputation for a particular dish. People will line up for ages outside, waiting for a seat in overcrowded conditions, while right next door another restaurant can offer the same dish yet be empty. This is the power of being seen at “the right place” and is a very powerful force in Malacca. We refuse to play the game.

I’d recommend Malacca as a destination. With the cheap Air Asia flights to KL from Perth, a very cheap 4 or 5 day package can be put together and a fantastic time had. We saw no more than 20 western faces in our time here but tourist numbers were quite healthy, so the rest of the World seems to know about the place.

We head home tomorrow, to meet our new grandchildren. We take with us a huge collection of baby clothes from Malacca.

Central Coast – Vietnam 19-30 March 2011

March 30, 2011 / terry

We spent a week and a half on the Central and South Central Coast, taking in Hue, Danang, Hoi An, Dong Ha and the Demilitarized Zone. The travelling was done by a mixture of train and bus, the former being very pleasant and the latter at least bearable.

Train Trip Phu Ly to Hue

We rose early, settling up the last of the hotel check-out and catching a taxi to the “Ga Phu Ly” for the train to Hue. The train was on time and we boarded without hassle. At first, we shared the compartment with a young girl and her small child but when the ticket collector came along, she was moved down the corridor a few spots and given a top bunk for both of them to use. We felt sorry for her but after we could still hear the child screaming after 15 minutes our sympathy evaporated. We had the whole compartment to our selves right up until Noon, when we reached Vinh, and a young mum with two boys (aged 2 and 5) boarded. She was great company, with reasonable English and a sweet personality. The younger boy was a bit of a terror, but spent a lot of time asleep. The 5 year old was very bright, and spent hours drawing, trying to write numbers, cutting shapes or trying to match the simple origami shapes we showed him. He and Christine had lengthy conversation that neither could understand but it all seemed to work out.

At 12 hours, the trip was just long enough. The scenery was great and the weather clear by Vietnamese standards. We were amazed by the large number of towering cathedrals scattered throughout the rural areas. At most times, a spire or dome can be seen in the distance. Not all are a legacy of French rule because we saw some huge cathedrals currently under construction. The train itself is very comfortable and the line in excellent condition, reducing the rocking to a minimum. We did experience the occasional jarring jolt that trains seem to do, which usually set the Dutch kid next door into a protracted wailing session. People who travel with small children deserve a medal.

We brought some bread rolls, boiled eggs, cheese and jam with us as sustenance but there was plenty of other food available via the regular carts that went through the carriages. We had a meal of rice, pork on a stick, chicken leg, a sausage-like substance and spring rolls. Of course, we also managed a couple of beers.

On arrival at Hue, we had the usual fight with a taxi driver, who wanted 150,000VN to take us to our hotel when the local Mum from the train said it should be about 40,000VN. We finally settled on 60,000VN. Throughout the trip, he told us that our hotel was a long way out of town and that he could get us one for $US10 a night. We pointed out that we had already paid but it didn’t stop him. He showed us one that he claimed was really good, not like ours that was very far from the central area. We got huffy so he drove the extra 50 metres down the road to where our hotel was. Good try.

Hue
Hue is a bit of a surprise, bigger than I expected and the “old city” is less in evidence than I had imagined from the reading. It is the ancient capital of the Nguyen Emperors and is filled with some wonderful ancient buildings. It was also badly damaged during the war and some areas are still in poor condition.

Arriving at night, we were surprised by the dazzle of neon lights and large numbers of people out and about for al-fresco dining or drinks. After the drab and dreary Phu Ly, Hue was at the other end of the tourism scale and things were hopping.

However, along with the tourism comes the hard sell and street annoyances can be a little heavy for a while until you become a familiar face and the cyclo drivers and river boat sellers start to ease off. The old buildings of the fortress and the citadel are indeed awesome, but we have never been very much into temples and ruins so this aspect is largely wasted. We did succumb to booking a tour of the Palace and some tombs but Christine got sick the night before so we cancelled out. Oh well, another time perhaps.

Hoi An
We caught a bus to Hoi An for a few days, travelling through Danang. The bus trip itself was good, mainly because I insisted on sitting near the back so we couldn’t see the road ahead. Christine always enjoys the scenery but I don’t think much of the idea of watching motor bikes disappearing under the front of the bus or pedestrians being flung off into the road verge. The bus itself was plain and simple, with vinyl seats that at least reclined. The road was generally good, with even a dual carriage-way in places. The scenery was quite spectacular, although we did not go over the famous Hai Van Pass,(also the scene of many terrible accidents). Instead, the bus took the new Hai Van Tunnel, a 6.5km long tunnel straight through the mountain range. The Hai Van Tunnel took 5 years to complete and is currently the longest tunnel in South East Asia.

At a road-side stop at the top of one mountain pass, a US couple declared that they would travel back to Hue on the train, this bus trip being too terrifying. It wasn’t that bad, but then they were sitting up front.

On arrival at Hoi An, the bus dropped us at a location only a short walk to the Greenfield Hotel, where we had booked. We stayed there last year, and when we walked in, a couple of staff greeted us warmly. “You remember me from last year?”. We were amazed that they would pick us from the thousands of tourists that they see every year but they could even remember things that we had done. While not the cheapest hotel around, this place has a lot of charm and is extremely friendly. We love it.

We hired bicycles and ambled around the old town, enjoying the relative safety of the traffic and the freedom of mobility. While Hoi An is unmistakably “touristy”, is totally retains the charm of the old town. It is said to be the best preserved example of an old Chinese trading port in existence. While all others have been rapidly overcome with modern structures, the gaining of World Heritage Status and the influx of foreign preservation dollars has ensured the old ways are retained. The Government enforces strict controls over the street touts and so one can wander around with little harassment and lots of friendly “hellos”. This is the only place in Asia that has cyclo drivers who wait for you to come to them and don’t annoy you for business.

We had a wonderful lunch down at the dock area. The food here is unique. Most dishes will have their own Hoi An variation, some, such as the ubiquitous “fried wonton” is so different to any other that it has to be experienced. Rather than the usual deep fried little parcels, these are oval shaped and flat, then heaped with finely diced vegetables and shrimps. A real treat. A local specialty is Lau Cao, a noodle dish with a delicious sauce and vegetables. Once again, it is unlike anything else and defies accurate description. It is said to require the noodles to be cooked in rice water, the original water to have been drawn from a well in a local village. However, there are so many restaurants selling this dish that the well would have run dry years ago.

Hoi An is famous for its ultra-cheap tailors and shoe-makers. They can produce anything you want in only a few hours. The quality of the materials and workmanship is universally good and the bargaining itself is very entertaining. I wanted a good pair of sandals while Christine was chasing another pair of evening shoes. She drove a very hard bargain, walking out twice (but never quite making it to the bikes) until we got mine for $15 and hers for $20. Both were full leather inner and outer and custom made for our feet. We ordered them around 1pm and organised to return at 6pm to pick them up. Can’t beat it.

Hoi An remains one of our favourite places anywhere. We will definitely be back.

Train Hue to Nha Trang
The 12 hour trip from Hue to Nha Trang was during the day, leaving Hue at a respectable 8am and arriving at 8:30pm. We did the trip from Danang to Hue last year and the Hai Van pass by rail was a highlight. This time, poor weather obscured much of the view but with a huge swell running, the sections where we hugged the coast were spectacular. We enjoyed the company of a young English couple, James and Jodie, who we seem to keep catching up with, and from Quang Nghai to Nha Trang shared a cabin with an engaged couple who are living and working in Saigon. The girl was born in Quang Nghai but moved to Texas at age 12. With the great company and the fact that we can both sleep well on the trains, the trip passed quickly.

Nha Trang
By Nha Trang the rain had stopped, but the terrible wind persists and it was very overcast. The promotional literature for Nha Trang boasts of over 300 days a year of sunshine but we didn’t see one. The weather ruled out excursions to the islands or the waterfalls and National Parks of the nearby mountains. We did spend some time just sitting down near the beach watching the huge surf crash along the shore. The beautiful white beach was being badly eroded by the surf and the beach was officially closed.

We spent a quiet relaxing day, with some long walks through the beach-side parks. Here the dominant tree is a tamarisk-like tree that the locals shape into all manner of interesting shapes. Some of the parks are quite comical. The rest of Nha Trang can be summed up in two ways; more than a block back from the beach its just another provincial city. On the beach front road it’s a typical Asian beach resort, quieter than Patong or Kuta, but more upmarket and active than Langkawi. With the weather situation, a full comparison is unfair but I lean towards Langkawi over Nha Trang.

One day was spent at Vinpearl, a theme park type development on an off shore island. It is very much like Sentosa in Singapore. Vinpearl is reached by means of a 3.5km long cable car. With the wind gusting to over 40km per hour, it was rocking and swaying a bit but the trip was certainly smoother than if the ferry had been running.

At the amusement park, we acted like little kids, even spending time in the video game arcade playing Rambo, driving cars on race tracks and watching 3D movies. It is one of those “Entry Ticket Buys All” situations so we just went for it. There is also an ultra exclusive resort on the far side of the island. They were hosting a beauty pageant so everywhere there we saw young girls running around being photographed in high heels. It was really hard to take. By the end of the day, many were limping and most were carrying their shoes. Christine went on the “Elevator”, a terrible spinning ride that carried a huge wheel up and around, at one stage spinning the occupants around while totally upside down. I really wanted to go but someone had to stay down and take photos. At the top of the ride, her screams were audible and she was using a universal language. People on the ground were in hysterics.

We enjoyed the huge Underwater World, similar to the one at Hillarys. With the weather so bad, crowds were right down and we were able to enjoy all the facilities in a relaxed manner without joining big queues. The complete package for a day’s fun and two way ride on the cable car is $14. Amazing.

Leaving Vietnam
We leave Vietnam for Kuala Lumpur today, flying via Ho Chi Minh City. We have thoroughly enjoyed our time and will definitely be back next year for Project Vietnam again. The weather has been a huge problem though and, although everyone says it is unseasonal, we’ll probably head across the mountains in Laos and Cambodia, chasing warmer weather next year.

Phu Ly Week 2 March 12-18 2011

March 18, 2011 / terry

The project has come to an end. As I write, we are waiting to head off to Trung Luong Village (the other job) for a hand-over ceremony. Our job, at Ma Nao Village, was completed yesterday and handed over amid much speech making, dancing girls (5 year old ones), karaoke singing and beer drinking. It would have been a real hoot if it wasn’t for the sub-10 degree temperature and the persistent rain. The weather has been terrible for the last 3 days, making it very difficult to put the finishing touches on our project. Some walls remain unpainted, but all the structural work has been done, the kids have lots of new puzzles and games to use and they have a wonderful new kitchen, complete with gas cooker, fridge, fan, rice cooker and tiled benches. This is a far cry from the old lean-to with charcoal brazier and limited water. The biggest change is the provision of electricity to all the rooms. The major structural change is the removal of the old rotting roof and erection of a new colourbond steel roof and suspended ceiling.

Christine has conducted her own personal project along the way, taking on the task of restoring two ancient old pieces of play equipment. One, a merry-go-round, was very drab and had a lot of holes in the fibreglass horses. She could not source any hardening filler anywhere, so we located some styro-foam packing and mixed it with petrol, making a gel-like bog to patch up the holes. Next she painted the horses and added some astro-turf matting to cover and hide all the rusted holes in the base. The result was acclaimed by all. The other piece was a rocking cradle with a chicken head. It needed a new seat so an old door was cut down and a rainbow pattern added. With a good lick of paint, the whole thing came up like new.

The reaction of the village inhabitants was charming. Every day, we were greeted warmly and farewelled with genuine friendliness. We all received gifts of tea sets made locally in Ha Nam Province. During the afternoon, the villagers joined in with a game of cricket, mostly children but a couple of elderly people also taking up the bat. As the deadline to finish the work drew close, the local contractors increased their efforts and the whole thing came together very well. A very satisfying ending to a terrific two weeks.

The collegiality of the members of PVI will bring us back again. We have made some wonderful friends. Like all groups of people, there are many diverse personalities and viewpoints but I guess we all share several things in common; a concern and compassion for the people of Vietnam, a sense of adventure and the ability to work together as a team. This made the project work and is what has driven things over the last 15 years of its operation. We both envy those people who have a long standing association with PVI because they have been able to see and track the incredible changes taking place in this country.

As for Phu Ly, I think two weeks is long enough for a while. As a purely provincial city that lacks a tourist infrastructure, life is a bit one dimensional (2 dimensions if you consider the Bia Hoi stall). We have found the food to be generally disappointing, although the lunches have been absolutely amazing. In town, many places sell only one or two dishes and communicating what you want or don’t want is tricky. The good thing is that if you get it wrong, it doesn’t hurt the purse at all. Life here is very cheap indeed. Some members changed $200 on arrival and still have money left over. After a big session at the Bia Hoi, we all dob in to the pot. The standard rate we seem to have settled on is 10,000VN each which is around 50 cents.

Throughout the fortnight, the local shopkeepers and residents have become more accustomed to seeing “round-eyes” in their midst and greet us with enthusiasm, rather than shying away. The school children, in particular, love to practise a phrase or two of English from school and giggle and blush when we reply. In reality, the language issue is a serious problem in Phu Ly, whereas in other parts of Vietnam, one can usually find someone who can speak enough English to get by. We have struggled with Vietnamese but the language is very difficult, with inflection being just as important as words and structure. I do not find it a “pretty language” by any means, particularly when people are in a hurry and sound as if they are arguing. On the other hand, when speaking gently, or formally, the language can take on a poetic lilt that is quite soothing.

From here, we move South to Hue, the ancient capital of the Nguyen Emperors. We will catch the train from Phu Ly tomorrow morning, a trip of around 12 hours. The others will bus back to Hanoi today and head off in all directions, although those planning on heading up into the mountains are reconsidering given the weather. We are both well satisfied with our work, but looking forward to getting on the move again.

Phu Ly – Vietnam 5-11 March 2011

March 11, 2011 / terry

I am writing from the hotel, having spent the day resting up with a “touch of belly”. After the things we have been eating, it’s not surprising. Christine, as usual, had a quick bout of mild illness then straight back on deck while I seem to take a couple of days to get over anything.

The experience working with Project Vietnam (PVI) has been all we hoped it would be. We are part of a group of 29 wonderful people, most from Queensland but with a smattering of New South Welshmen, West Aussies and Canberra-ites thrown in. We spent the first night in Hanoi, getting reacquainted with the Bia Hoi stall down the road then travelled approximately 75km South East to Phu Ly, the provincial capital of Hai Nam. Phu Ly is home for the next two weeks, which puts us nearly half way through the current project. We are staying at the Hoa Binh Hotel, a very comfortable (and even luxurious by our usual standards) seven storey building in the classy part of town. The room is setting us back a whopping $18 a night.

PVI is running two projects in the area, both kindergartens that are in need of rebuilding. They require re-roofing, concrete cancer taking care of the old ones, ceilings, the provision of power points, lots of painting and replastering as well as any odd maintenance jobs we can manage. The team has several builders, with one having been on site for several weeks planning the work and assembling materials. A lot is sourced locally, although the roofing steel has been imported from Australia. Some labour is also sourced locally, mostly bricklayers and plasterers. We also have an electrician with us . The building codes here seem very loose to non-existent. Seldom is anything done with a level or a string line and the lack of cavity walls or damp courses means that most buildings rapidly succumb to damp and rot.

Each morning, we head out in a bus (actually two buses because the two jobs are in opposite directions). The weather has been cool and very misty, although the rain has been restricted to the night. Most days, we return totally exhausted, especially after a day on the roof clambering around. We are very well fed along the way. At our site, some locals provide an amazing array of dishes; fried chicken, roast duck, calamari, deep fried prawns, buk choy, sweet cabbage, and rice have all been on the menu. Sadly, the other site has not fared so well and there have been numerous complaints about the chewy broiled beef and sticky rice or plain noodles.

As a learning experience, the project has been terrific because not only have I learnt a lot about Vietnam, I have learnt some new building techniques. The work is very hard but very satisfying. Access to power is one of the issues we face. As a power saving measure, the village only gets supplied for half a day so the electricity goes on or off at noon. At other times, we rely on a very noisy diesel generator that can just run two power tools at a pinch. Our biggest need is for ladders and scaffolding. One aluminium 4-way folding ladder was brought in from Australia but often we have to use a long bamboo job. While this is undeniably strong, it does twist and groan when one is up near the top so it takes some getting used to.

Throughout the day, there is a steady stream of locals dropping in to see the progress and to say “sin cheow”. We use our very few Vietnamese phrases and they respond with their very few English phrases. The Principal and teachers are often on site, organising things for us or helping clear away the continual mess that builders always seem to create. School is held in two shifts. Just after noon when the first shift finishes, the yard fills with curious kids. At other times, the Principal closes the gate and they mill outside, keen to watch the strange “round-eyes” at work. Christine sat with one group and they worked through their English lessons, practising phrases.

One of our favourite times is the walk back through the community to catch the bus, an easy trek of around a kilometre. In the afternoon, the narrow village streets are full of people who all greet us or wave. Everyone around seems well aware of who we are and what we are doing and appear to be very appreciative. We also pass a large duck pond and each day we mentally count the ducks to see whether the day’s lunch diminished their numbers.

At the end of each day, most of the team members will congregate in the nearby Bia Hoi. This sells local keg beer in tankards, along with a variety of nibbles. A heavy session on the Bia wouldn’t make a monkey drunk so we tend to consume quite a bit of the stuff. The whole bill for the group is shared out, usually coming to around 25,000VN each (about $1.25). For evening meals, most just head off in small groups to find some Pho (noodle soup) or similar fare. Often, we just take a couple of bread rolls and cheese or bananas back to our room because we a so tired or lunch was so filling.

Yesterday, Christine and I travelled East to Thai Binh, about 50kms away, to take part in a ceremony handing over bursaries to 5 final year medical students. This is an annual award from PVI to the University and we enjoyed the hospitality of the Vice Rector and the Vice Head of International Cooperation, including a sumptuous lunch at a hotel. The five students were very appreciative of the $200 they were receiving, an amount that will support them for 5 or 6 months of their final year. We also took the opportunity to visit an orphanage in Thai Binh, the scene of an earlier project. There were only 4 children present, most being off at school. The other team members that had worked with the orphanage were greeted with much enthusiasm. The children were given some knitted toys and soccer balls. Christine and I thought that the standards the children were enjoying were higher than some of the aboriginal students and communities back home in Australia.

Tomorrow, a film crew from Channel Seven’s Sunrise arrives (Natalie Barr) to film the work we do. At this stage, I’m not sure of just when and how this footage will be shown back in Australia but I’ll post up the details as soon as they are known.

Langkawi Feb 28 – Mar 4 2011

March 6, 2011 / terry

We spent 4 wonderful days in Langkawi, en-route to Vietnam for this year’s Project Vietnam undertaking. Our visit last year to Langkawi was all too brief and we promised ourselves a return trip. We still didn’t allocate anywhere near enough time and we are determined to come back for a extended stay. In fact, a lot of the Europeans we came across were spending several months there. It is certainly cheap enough to permit that.

The whole time was spent around water sports. Why not when we were living right on the beach at Pantai Cenang? Here the beach is clean and white with good swimming water. Our bungalow was 50 metres from the water and afforded a great view of the comings and goings on the beach from the comfort of our front porch. The AB Motel is cheap and basic but serves the purpose very well. It really is just a place to shower and sleep, with most of the time spent on the beach, in the streets or off on an excursion.

We caught a taxi to Mt Mathincang where there is a cable car ride that boasts of being one of the steepest in the World. The total ride is 2.2km and the top of the mountain is up around 700m so it is really spectacular. Unfortunately, we shared our cable car with a guy (I think he was German) who had the worst BO I’ve ever encountered. The cable car itself is rather confined so we were gasping by the time we reached the first station. We took in the fabulous views from the mid level station (about 3/4 of the way up) then went back to continue the journey. I looked around for the BO man but he wasn’t in sight. As we took our place in the line, he materialised next to us and we got another dose.

The view from the top was even better and we took a walk down to an amazing semi-circular walking bridge that creates a walk over the rainforest canopy. After much camera clicking and ooing and arhing, it was time to climb the steps back to the cable car station. The buttocks were screaming in protest by the end. This exercise had definitely shaken off the BO man (did I forget to say that he was also disabled and walked with the aid of sticks?). Back in the village at the base of the mountain, we ate a wonderful lunch of Mee Hoon and Fried Kweay Teow washed down with lemon juice (it’s a Muslim country). After wandering the shops for a bit (and losing Christine), we taxied back to our home stretch of Pantai Cerang and had a swim followed by a lovely afternoon nap.

Another day was spent snorkeling on Pulau Payar, an island off the South West corner of Langkawi. It has been a declared marine reserve for many years so the fish life is more abundant than other places. The coral is disappointing by Australian standards but the water was very clear and the snorkeling excellent.

The large number of black tip reef sharks were fun and showed no fear of humans at all. We also saw a wonderful metre long groper and a huge metre plus barracuda. The whole day, with transfers, boat trip, lunch and snorkeling gear was $A40 each, fantastic value. These group trips are terrific entertainment because one gets to watch all the different types. Many people were amused by a group of 4 young Aussie girls who strutted their stuff and showed off their best “absolutely fabulous” talk. We called them the Princess Group. Then there were the Japanese couples who head for the water bound up in life jackets, snorkeling gear, hats and no idea at all of how to swim. Another Middle Eastern guy spent over an hour standing in the water surrounded by the teaming small coral fish demanding that his wife take photos of him. She seemed to tire of the game but wasn’t allowed to stop. Meanwhile, he was turning a brilliant shade of red on his back.

We cast our hatred of jet skis aside and hired one for a 4 hour trip around a group of islands of Pantai Cenang. The guide was a young Pommie guy named Tom who reckoned he had a holiday job from heaven. We visited a spot where three species of eagles come to be fed chicken scraps by tour boats. While this is a spectacular sight, with White Breasted Sea Eagles, Langkawi Eagles and Brown Eagles all diving and swooping, the practice is leading to a major change in the ecology of the birds themselves, who are losing the art of hunting and are forming social groups rather than the territorial bonded pairs that they usually form.

We explored some isolated beaches, snorkeled (although the water was not too clear) and spent a wonderful hour on an exclusive island resort relaxing on lounges in luxurious surroundings. The trip was an absolute highlight and changed our outlook on “personal water craft”. We tend to see people just hooning around on them and making a noise on beaches but used as a form of transport, they are unbeatable for getting around quickly.

Our favourite restaurant was the Palm View, a Chinese Seafood place a little North of the AB Motel. They served a magnificent duck dish and another night we tried an ostrich dish. The food was well priced and incredibly good. A meal of half a duck (shared), braised vegetables and beancurd, rice and 4 Tiger beers set us back around RM50 ($A17).

In general, things were pretty quiet in Langkawi. Apparently, the normal European high season hadn’t materialized this year for some reason. While this was good for us, with small groups and uncrowded beaches, it is not so good for the local Malays, with many stalls and restaurants staying shut or only opening for dinner.

Langkawi will draw us back again. We have so much more to do. Next time we will hire a car or some motor bikes and explore the island. Some trips North to Koh Lipe and Koh Lanta are also on the list.